| Author |
Message |
    
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 08:55 am: | 
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Thanks for the write up. I wouldn't have thought about starting with the punch before drilling. Good tip. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 10:22 am: |
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A front isolator stiffener was used, which sandwiches the isolator on its thick exterior. My guess is it probably tore on a track day crash two years ago. The way it is supported, it didn't ride any differently. Whether this contributed to the bolt failure is unknown. Between the jumps, wheelies, and that wreck...I'm sure they are all factors.
The extractor used was from a cheap Harbor Freight set. The head was in place. I drilled a shallow, offset 1/8" hole first to loosen the bolt, applying some heat intermittently while turning the bolt with a punch after using penetrating oil. It took several hammer swings to get the bolt to budge initially. Once turned as far as I could (the frame gets in the way) it seemed safe to use the extractor. I drilled only about 1/4" in, as that was all that was needed to get a good bite.
The isolator used is the old failure prone H-D unit. One of the H-D replacements failed with just a little bit of upward pressure applied by jack onto it. The current one was the next version. Looks like I'll be upgrading to the latest and greatest.
I thank you guys. A combination of everyone's ideas was used (except for the remove the head part). |
Brinnutz
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 10:26 am: |
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Rick, can you snag a pic of that front isolator stiffener? Don't recall seeing one. |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 11:43 am: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/537408.html
http://www.stenzel-parts.de/14321.html |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 11:48 am: |
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Smart also to keep the hole as shallow as possible as well before using the extractor. The deeper it is, the harder it is to dremel out the sheared extractor head. If the hole is shallow enough, you can break it up to get it out. If the hole is deep, you just drive it deeper and wedge it harder. |
Brinnutz
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 12:05 pm: |
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Thanks James, I didn't realize he was talking about that, I have one of those. |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 04:27 pm: |
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"So do you guys really recommend replacing those mount bolts proactively?"
If your factory parts are still OK, I wouldn't touch them.
Remember:
Everything isn't broken until it does.
Not broken = don't fix.
Here is where I JYNX myself stupidly:
My originals are rusty and have over 80 thousand miles on them. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 09:36 pm: |
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This is the isolator stiffener:
It only works with the old H-D style iso. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 07:52 pm: |
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This was the resolution:
Not all that pretty, but does the job.
New isolator a little too close for comfort. It has been rubbing the frame slightly.
Next project will be a home-made front engine mount brace. Word is those with the stenzelstütze have not experienced any further bolt failures. |
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