| Author | Message | ||
     Masmo |
My exhaust pipe has a crack that travels all the way around its perimeter. Needless to say, I need a new exhaust. Right now I have a vance and hines exhaust and muffler. I can reuse the muffler, but can't find a vance and hines exhaust header anywhere. Does anybody know of a place I can pick one up, or if there are any other exhaust headers I can slip this muffler over? Would sportster exhausts work with a 2000 buell cyclone? I am having trouble finding anything that will fit this bike :/ I wouldn't mind buying a used one, but there isn't much on ebay. I'm trying to find sometihng for $250 or under (more likely than not something used). | ||
| Coxster |
my pipe has 'vericose' welds from this and that. Grateful for buddies at the local vo-tech that teach welding! | ||
| Masmo |
Haha does that hold up? Don't think it would cost a whole lot to have it welded. Just don't want to have to keep pulling the exhaust. | ||
| Kilroy |
Only header that will fit is the stock header or a complete Buell race setup if you can find it, a Force pipe or a D&D complete kit(all made for Buells). There may be one or two others. No Sportster pipes will fit. Check the classifieds here or E-bay, headers are on sale all the time. | ||
| Masmo |
Thanks for the info. I'll have to keep an eye on the classifieds. Although I am tempted to try this welding patch. | ||
| Coxster |
my first break was the front pipe, when the front support on my previous 'straight pipe' busted off. The pipe was too heavy for the header to support. My last break on the rear was from the exhaust nuts working loose from the studs. If you keep your pipe/muffler secure it will work fine. I now check mine every 30 days, and any studs long enough get double-nutted  | ||
| Masmo |
Good deal. I'll have to call a few exhaust shops. How much does it typically cost. I know it depends on the crack location, but im just wondering ballpark. | ||
| Coxster |
1st crack - begged an instructor at the local votech ( I teach industrial controls there ) 2nd time a buddy at my day job in the maint dept, so I never paid for either, sorry I can't tell you better. | ||
| Masmo |
Well i'll post back how much it was if i find a place to weld it. The crack is right where the rear and front exhaust headers overlap so it might not be weldable. Went to one place today and the guy told me that they couldn't weld it because "steel pipes are unweldable". | ||
| Buellistic |
EXHAUST ASSEMBLY CLASS 101, just PM me if you want a copy ... Have 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride and have never broken a exhaust header stud or ever cracker a header ... | ||
| Masmo |
I've never had to replace my rear shock, while others have. That doesn't mean their shock was installed incorrectly. My exhaust header studs are fine and my exhaust mounts are fine. Parts fail due to fatigue (In this case from vibration). No part is identical. That being said, no part has the same life. Your exhaust may have lasted 111,819 miles. That doesn't mean every other exhaust will. The failure was not due to an assembly or hardware error. | ||
| Buellistic |
Talking about rear shocks, still running the ORIGINAL OEM SHOCK and "i" also have the recall shock that was to replace it ... TOP END has never been off ... (Message edited by buellistic on August 12, 2012) | ||
| Masmo |
As quoted by you in your profile under problems/miles: "(1)HiBeam went out 02573.1 AGAIN 03746.5 AGAIN 04022.0" "I" have driven 19,000 miles on this bike and have yet to replace my HiBeam. If you want I can shoot you a link to my bulb installation blog. You also stated that your rocker arm cover leaked twice. "I" have yet to rip mine off once. My point is, failures are unpredictable. If you have nothing useful to contribute and are just looking to pick a fight, just don't post. Anyways, coxster and kilroy, thanks for the input. I'll post back with a price if I wind up getting this thing patched for anyone looking for a rough quote in the future. | ||
| Masmo |
For anyone curious about the price for a patch job like this, I spoke to a mom and pop shop down the road from me and they said it would cost me $25, and informed me that the weld would be much stronger then the parent material so they would not expect it to be a reoccuring problem. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Buellistic's advice on mounting the whole exhaust up loose, then tightening incrementally is good, it will help keep any one part from extra stress. His statements are probably because most of the cracked pipes we've read about here over the years have been up toward the header bolts as Coxster's picture shows, or at the front exhaust hanger under the bike. Both spots tend to bear a lot of load if people don't mount pipes properly. I don't recall hearing about one breaking as yours has at the cross-over, sounds like a tough spot to weld. Hopefully your local shop can fix it for you, there are some great welders in the local shops. Would you post pics for us once fixed, or before after pics? Buellistic has a particular prose that can be hard to get your head around, don't let it bug you, he's a very helpful member here who is always willing to provide useful data and has some very useful advice. -Mike | ||
| Fuzzy |
+1 "he's a very helpful member here who is always willing to provide useful data and has some very useful advice." i'd pay attention to him, most failures actually are pretty predictable if given enough data. that'll be 2 cents please. ps: nothing sounds as good as a supertrapp! (17 discs, closed endcap and no packing)  | ||
| Masmo |
Sure. I won't have time to run out there to work on it until this weekend, but i'll snag a few pictures of the before and after. If they're able to weld it that is. Seems like a tight squeeze. | ||
| Jim2 |
My M2 header had spider-web fractures where the two pipes parallel each other in the middle. One or two of the cracks were 1/2 or more around. Most were in the back and was not even visible when header was mounted. The bike was dropped on the right side before I bought it. I had a local speed shop weld it up for me. I think it cost around $90 (talked down from about $175). I could have waited and found a new or used header for close to that but I wanted to get on the road ASAP. He did a great job and it's held up for 14,000 miles now. He said it was very difficult to weld the cracks that were in between the two pipes and the steel is very thin. I could probably find some pictures to post. | ||
| Lakes |
i have cracked a lot of pipes over the years, all on harleys. so far have not cracked the Buell's pipe. i think if you have it mounted right & you crack the pipe. could be you riding style. if you do high rev's on these motors they put out vibes that crack things easy. i think a 2" length of pipe bolted to the head with a few rings welded then the head pipes sliping over that with rings welded to them then springs to hold the head pipes to the short pipes that are bolted to the ports works as lets things flex more. but i'm not racing my Buell and till the pipe brakes i'll leave it as it is. | ||
| Masmo |
Jim, my failure sounds a lot like yours. Since the crack is where the two pipes overlap it's going to be tricky to get to. Went to another shop today and they said it would be about $120 so i'm going to wait for the guy at the mom and pop shop to get back on Tuesday and take it there. | ||
| Jim2 |
There was a complete header and OEM muffler setup on Ebay for $89. I see headers all the time for >$150 . Even though they did a great job on the welds on mine there is a tiny pin hole that he didn't get. It leaves a little mark on my timing cover. It's not a big deal at all. One thing about taking it to a welder is that there is a chance they can mess it up because it is thin wall tubing. Make it clear to them that you only pay them for a successful job that allows you to have a header that works on your bike, or $20 for the time trying because they do have to clean it up before starting the welds. | ||
| Masmo |
Hmm cheapest pipe i've seen on ebay was around $240 plus shipping so far. But i've only been looking for a week now. Figured $25 wasn't bad to give fixing it a shot. I have off work next week so I was tempted to order one off ebay so that I could ride, but figured the possible $200+ in savings would be worth the wait haha. (Message edited by Masmo on August 14, 2012) | ||
| Jim2 |
  | ||
| Masmo |
Ah yeah, that is similar to mine. I found someone selling a stock M2 exhaust though. The muffler I have now is a Vance and Hines. Should this fit the stock pipe? Had to store my bike elsewhere (didn't want to drive it with a cracked exhaust) so I am unable to measure the ID right now. | ||
| Jim2 |
The stock M2 exhaust had two different inlet sizes depending on the year model. Pre-99 is a 2" inlet. 99 - 2002 has a 2.5" inlet. I believe the Vance and Hines came in both versions so you just have to make sure that the header interface diameter matches the muffler inlet diameter for it to work. | ||
| Masmo |
Gotcha. Is the muffler meant to be a bit undersized? I have the bike parked at my buddies house and he measured for me and said it was 2 1/4" to 2 3/8". I remember it was slotted in the end, I wonder if this is to allow for the 1/8" to 1/4" of play? I know the stock pipe for my bike is 2 1/2 inches. | ||
| Jim2 |
I don't think so, but I think they get bent out of round over time from installation and removal cycles. The muffler inlet slotted part fits over the header outlet. | ||
| Masmo |
Not sure what my buddy was measuring but I just ran out and my calipers read around 2.5 haha. Think im in the clear. | ||
| Jim2 |
Here you go. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/3153466040.ht ml | ||
| Jayvee |
Ugly but cheap, I bet that is stainless and would polish up real pretty. If not you can always powder-coat it... |
