| Author | Message | ||
     Two_seasons |
I've been wondering about ISOLATORS lately. I've got 22K+ miles on my '99 now. And, my '00 has around 15K+ on the clock. So, here's the questions: 1) Can you visually see the isolators, during pre-ride inspection and over time, move? It seems they are moving back and up in the inspection hole. 2) As isolators wear out, would that make your drive belt tighten up? Thanks for the responses guys. Off to the salt mine and I check back in sometime this evening. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My rears lasted a long time before they "went". Like 45,000 miles. Vibed like a mofo! Was not subtle. I dropped by the dealership on the way home and the tech showed me nifty trick: he lifted up on the tail of the bike and then told me to sit on the seat while he watched the rear isolators. sure enough, the bolts moved relative to the circular opening. not by much but he could see it. I couldn't see any rips in the rubber while they were mounted to the bike but when they were out, they were drooping. like a slinky mushed over on one side. The front isolators seem to go about once every 25-30 thousand miles. One of mine looked like it was torn right in half. The rest were just sneaky again with no external signs of damage. TL;DR version: Rev the bike to 3000 RPM. If it smoothes out, they are fine. if it jackhammers, you "win" a failed isolator. | ||
| Hootowl |
1. They should not rotate if properly installed, and not bad. There's a locating pin which should prevent that. 2. The bolt hole is offset, so it should appear to be higher than the center of the hole. I think idea is that the weight of the rider/frame will flex the isolator downward toward the center of the opening. If you have not installed the new 'eared' rear isolator, you should do so. You'll never have to worry about them again. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
good luck on replacing them, its a real pain in the butt | ||
| Buellistic |
TEST #1: Have two persons set on the seat and have a third person look at the ISOLATORS and the third person will be able to see if they are bad ... OBSERVATION #1: If your drive belt is adjusted correctly you will not notice a change ... Compress the LEFT ISOLATOR as much as you can to get the RIGHT ISOLATOR out because you do not WANT TO BEND(SPRING)THE FRAME !!! BUY THEM FROM "AL" at www.AmericanSportBike.com ... (Message edited by buellistic on July 23, 2012) | ||
| S1owner |
If you choose to replace them i can give you details that will make it not as hard! | ||
| Hootowl |
"its a real pain in the butt" Not bad at all on an X1. I've done them in 30 minutes. Why all the 99-02 tubers didn't have the X1's removable side plate, I'll never know. The engineering was already done, all they had to do was copy it. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Thanks guys for the responses. I'll take you up on that offer S1owner. Would you mind posting it to this thread so when it's archived, it may help out the next guy.  ...hey I live in Wisconsin, we like our beer here  | ||
| Hootowl |
For X1s, the easiest way is to remove the side plate on the right side, and the front and rear engine tie bars. Then push the frame to the left, and the left side isolator will fall out, assuming you've taken the bolt out. And by rear engine tie bar I mean the one attached to the swingarm mount. | ||
| Foximus |
Meh.... Just drop the motor. Its not that hard... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It's an X1. Dropping the motor is a waste of time. Remove huge hex bolts in isolators remove right side foot peg panel remove hugger rear fender take one bolt from rearmost tie-bar now the engine can flop around freely. Don't forget to suspend the tail of the bike while you do this to take the weight off. | ||
| Hootowl |
"The bolt hole is offset, so it should appear to be higher than the center of the hole" Sorry, I meant LOWER, not higher. |
