| Author | Message | ||
     Yellcyclone777 |
Hey there I just got done with replacing the primary cover gasket and rocker gaskets and have been riding for a few days and on the way home from work today the bike wouldn't shift into 1st gear. I understand working out the kinks with a new to me Buell but I am so frustrated with this thing it's not even funny. I have an absolute blast riding this bike but come on it's spent more time in the garage then on the road. With only 17,000 miles I wouldn't have thought I would have had so many problems.. Please tell me its something simple like a clutch adjustment or something because I'm about to pull my hair out. If it helps I was in a rapid decell using my gears to slow me down and I was just about to drop it into first and it wouldn't go. Any ideas on what might be wrong? | ||
| Reepicheep |
"You don't want to know" questions: How do you adjust your belt tension? Does the bike ever make odd "hoot" or "grind" noises from the right side when idling with the clutch in? "You do want to know" questions: Do you have the updated primary chain tensioner in there? The new one with the thicker backplate? | ||
| Yellcyclone777 |
No weird noises, belt tensioner plate is the updated one and I adjusted it from the bottom adjustment screw within spec between .37 to .5 of an inch while cold, I think it might be a clutch issue possible seated the clutch bearings out of sequence or something.. | ||
| Yellcyclone777 |
.37 to .50 of an ich of freeplay behind the chain inspection cover | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I think Reep is pointing you in the right direction there, you have to rotate the primary chain and check its tension in several places though, can't just do it in one place and call it done. Shift it into 5th to make it easier to rotate the back wheel, then turn the wheel a bit to rotate the chain. I think Buellistic recommends a little more loose than the manual calls for, he's got over 100K on his bike(s)so can probably give you some good info there. If that's not it I'd pull that primary cover back off and double check your shifter pawl adjustment, it's a by the book job, so if you have the shop manual you will be good to go. I think the S1 manual has that procedure in it and you can use the online pdf for that adjustment from the knowledge vault if you haven't got a manual yet. Scroll down, it's almost all the way to the bottom, titled "Service Manual-Buell S1 Lightning Service Manual" http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3607.html?1340500291 | ||
| Buellistic |
Yellowcyclone777: PM me if you want HELP "INFO" ... | ||
| Reepicheep |
The two roads I was thinking were: 1) A trashed 5th gear drive assembly (i.e. this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/686824.html?1342139848#POST2240825 ) If it is that, you get grinding and hooting from the drive sprocket when you turn it, either with the bike idling in neutral (sometimes hard to tell) or with the belt off and bike in neutral and rotating the assembly by hand (more reliable detection). Or, as in the previous thread, by pulling the black cap off an finding a handful of needle bearings.  2) Old style primary chain tensioner, with a broken backplate, which got wedged up in your shifter drum assembly. So it doesn't sound like either of those is highly likely. Next possiblity is just something screwed up with that internal shifter assembly. It's a rod, sitting on a kind of bridge, that is bolted to the cases behind the primary drivetrain. That shaft rotates a pair of pawls, which lift pins on a long shaft (drum), which move the forks to shift the gears. The shaft can bind on the case (for example if you lowsided onto it). The bridge can be bent and knock things out of alignment. The pawl can eject a spring. The pawl can bend. The pins in the shift drum that the pawl engages can back out. The retaining plate that holds the pawl on the pins can loosen. That's all "don't remove the tranny" stuff, but you will probably have to remove the clutch / stator bell / primary chain as a unit (not a big deal, but requires big freaking sockets and careful retorquing on reassembly). If it's a burr in the shift drum, a bent or binding shift fork, or some other stuff, you have to pull the tranny. If this was an XB, thats a really bad deal. But because this is an M2, once you have the primary drive out, you are only about 10 more minutes away from having your catridge transmission out and sitting on your bench awaiting inspection. Viva la tuber!  | ||
| Alfau |
These bikes don't like quick shifts, period! Does it shift ok under normal riding ? If it was shifting ok before the new gasket. Make sure you have used the correct type of oil, the Oil level is touching the bottom of the spring plate and the primary chain tension is 3/4" at the tightest section in the chain and the clutch cable is adjusted correctly. | ||
| Yellcyclone777 |
Thank you everyone for all of the advice! Reep you nailed it, I took the primary back off and I was wrong about the tensioner Im assuming it is the old style because the back plate is broken..LOL Thats crazy that you called that one!! I'm hoping that is the reason that it wouldnt go into 1st but its kind of hard to tell when its all apart. And I couldnt tell where the loose half of the back plate was lodged it kind of fell out. Can I reach in there maybe clamp on some vice grips and see if it will go into 1st or should I wait until I get the new tensioner Assy, install everything and see if it fixes the problem? Two more questions if you dont mind First how does that even happen? And second Where can I find the better updated tensioner assembly? | ||
| Captainkirk |
You will get the updated tensioner when you order it. The old one is no longer available. While in there, replace the shift drum detent plate and the nasty little e-clip that holds it on. Don't ask me why; just do it. About $10.00 worth of parts you will thank me for later. |
