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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through July 21, 2012 » Primary Case gasket change/X-1 Files « Previous Next »

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Dano1z
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just getting ready to change the primary case gasket to the new aluminium one on the x-1, I was looking for some detailed instruction on this. This is the first time tearing into the Buell, might also change the tensioner while im in there if its the old style. Any guide or direction on this would be great. I have searched for the X-1 links and none of them work for me, any ideas?
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty straight forward, esp if you have the service manual. Having done it before:

The chin fairing doesn't need to be completely removed; it is flexible enough to just pull it down when the bolts/screws in the primary have been pulled. Same with the muffler; the book says to remove it, but that is only to drain the trans. YMMV.

Use great care when pulling the shift arm off the shift shaft. They do break, and it doesn't take much. Get a shift shaft oil seal.

Put lots of slack in the clutch cable, be careful with the clutch adj stuff at the clutch. You don't have to pull the cable from the primary cover.

The service manual instructions will be your guide.
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Thejosh
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure you mark where the longer bolts go!
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Kalali
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And when you're done makes sure you tighten the bolts to spec torque starting in the middle and work your way out. The torque values are in in-lbs not ft-lbs.
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Devil_car
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I do it, I like to trace the new gasket on a piece of cardboard making sure to mark the hole locations and then place the screws into the appropriate holes. That way I don't end up mixing up the different lengths. I've drawn it by hand before, and that was easy too, considering I have no artistic talent. -- Tip I learned from Buellistic.

Also, buying 4 or so long bolts and cutting the heads off will allow you to hang the gasket and place the primary cover on and position it in place prior to starting any screws (I think they are 1/4-20 thread, going off memory, if in doubt measure or take one with you to ACE). Then, you can install the other actual screws finger tight, remove the 4 tooling screws and finish the job. -- Tip I learned from Buellistic.

Another good tip I picked up on here was to cut the corner off of a plastic bag and place it over the shifter shaft's serrations to keep from damaging the NEW shift shaft oil seal when installing the primary cover.

I like to torque in steps, starting at a low torque on all screws and working my way up to the desired value.

Overall it's an easy job! Just take your time.
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Dano1z
Posted on Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the tips everyone, really appreciate it. Do i have to worry about adjusting the chain tensioner when taking the primary cover off?
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No but it is easier to see the adjustment you are making with it off\open.
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