| Author | Message | ||
     Socalrider |
Hi I could use some help with transmission problems. The bike has about 14,000 miles on it. I put about 1,500 Miles on it since I’ve had it and then the Trans Started to kick back down after an up shift or felt like it would slip then catch. Now I have to hold it in gear give it a little throttle so it will stay in gear otherwise it will go into neutral and is hard to put into first when stopped. When trying to put it into neutral the light flashes and it seems to go past the point that it needs to keep the light on this happens going up or down. Now on this site I have read that the shift drum could be warn or the pins could be coming out. I read there something about an updated detent plate? I also noticed that the clutch is at the end of its adjustment and will be replacing it. Does anyone have any Suggestions for a good replacement? Am I looking in the right direction? Can I fix the pin problem without taking the Trans out? I had to replace the stator on my FXR so I do know some of what is involved in this. Are there other things that I should look for? I already know that I need to replace the old style primary chain adjuster and I do have a repair manual on CD. This is my main transportation and I would like to know if it will cause more damage if I keep driving it like this till I can fix it? Thanks in advance for any help that you my offer. Ed | ||
| Jramsey |
A bike that has been down on the left side can knock the shift shaft pawl out of adjustment,possible bent shift forks or the detent plate retainer clip has popped off,time to pull the cover and have a looksee. (Message edited by Jramsey on July 01, 2012) | ||
| Buellistic |
Have you replaced the SPRING PLATE(aka GRENADE PLATE) as it will cause clutch adjustment problems which will relate to other problems ... | ||
| Socalrider |
I plan on replacing the clutch do you have a preference to what type of clutch to use and what to use in place of the plate | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" run the OEM clutch "PRODUCT IMPROVED" ... 1 fiber and 2 steel ... CORRECTION !!! Have 111,671.35 miles on my 1997 S3T as of the last ride ... (Message edited by buellistic on July 07, 2012) | ||
| Jim2 |
Don't know that a new clutch is going to cure your problems. In fact if your present spring plate hasn't let loose on your you shouldn't need a new clutch but you do want to replace the spring plate before it does let loose on you. Maybe you just want to get in and do it all at once. If so I recommend the Energy One BTX-11 kit. Has all Kevlar and steel plates plus the extra plates to eliminate the spring plate (aka grenade plate). Comes with a 15% stronger diaphram spring. You can also get the combo that includes the clutch compression tool if you don't want to make your own (BTX-11 CT100 combo). It's a Kevlar clutch and Energy One recommends avoiding the use of synthetic in the primary with the Kevlar clutch plates. I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 with mine and have good results. -Check for drum pins that have worked themselves out. If they have line them up so the detent plate sits flush. It is preferred to use green locktight to hold them in place so they don't back out again. -inspect your shift forks and shift pattern groove channels. Mine had some damage that prevented a smooth shift in one spot. I used emory cloth to smooth the damaged area. -do not reuse the cotter pins that retain the shift fork guide pins. Install brand new stainless pins. If not the old pins can break and foul your transmission. **You must use a new clip over the detent plate after you take it off. If not the clip can break in half and cause damage. There is a modification some here have done to replaced the clip all together with a screw. This requires mild machine work. -Adjust your shifter pawl. -Adjust your primary chain according to Buellistics procedure and NOT the Factory Service Manual specifications which are wrong. Don't forget to check that your starter is tight while you are in there. This is a great time to replace the paper starter gasket if it has not been done. | ||
| Jim2 |
Buellistic tells me that the OEM clutch plates are as good as they get and many racers choose to run the OEM plates. But either way you want to replace the spring plate with one steel and two fiber. The reason I went with the Energy One is because of the cost of the one steel, two fiber plus I had to replace a couple of damaged fibers from when my spring plate let loose. It was cheaper just to replace the whole thing for me. I still have a few slightly used fiber plates I could get to you for cheap if you want to go that route and save. I'm out of extra steel plates though. Steel plates are only $10 at the dealer. PM me if you want to do that. | ||
| Screamer |
It may be worthwhile to check the countershaft end screw to be certain it's still tight (in the trans door). If it loosens, it allows the countershaft to move in & out and may randomly make going in to gear and staying in gear difficult. I've seen it a few times at high mileage, but usually happens at less than 10K miles. | ||
| Socalrider |
Thank you all for your help Buellistic thank you for your time and knowledge Ed | ||
| Socalrider |
Took the primary cover off and the primary drive found that the shift detent plate clip was gone and just two small parts of the clip were found. One of the shift drum pins was out about 3/32 from the rest and the detent plate rubbed against the rivets on the back of the clutch hub. The bearing on the detent arm is bad and had I order a new one along with a new detent plate. I have installed an Energy One clutch and plan on using Mobil One 20/50 v-twin oil. The old clutch with the grenade plate was ok. Drilled and taped the shift drum 10/32. Can I need to weld the pins in they are somewhat tight and thinking that if I try to pull them out they will get damaged. Any thoughts anything else I should do? The sockets for the primary were 1 1/8 and 1 3/16 Ed | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Im a big Mobil 1 fan....but with all the stator failures and Mobil 1 being a prime suspect, I don't put in that hole.Engine yes, primary no.IMO | ||
| Buellistic |
This works for me, H-D SYN3 20W50 in both engine and transmission ... Have a 111,671.35 miles as of the last ride and still running the OEM STATOR, ROTOR, and VOLTAGE REGULATOR, "BUT" have replace many BATTERIES which kill your electrical system when you a bound and determined to get that LAST ELECTRON out of your BATTERY !!! | ||
| Jim2 |
Energy One warns against using Synthetics with the Kevlar clutch plates. I use Shell Rotella-T 15W40 with my Energy One clutch and have good results. | ||
| Sanddamaged |
Check your front drive pulley for wear on the splines, on the inside. My bike was doing something similar on occasion. | ||
| Sanddamaged |
Check your clutch cable adjustments as well. | ||
| Sanddamaged |
Nevermind I see u found the problem. It wouldn't hurt to check those anyways. Where in socal are u? Im from palm desert. | ||
| Socalrider |
I just cleaned my primary cover getting reading to put things back together and I noticed that on the top inside that the primary chain is grinding it away. What’s going, on can anybody explain this? The primary adjuster had about 1/16 grooves in it too | ||
| Buellistic |
Top of case wear means the primary chain at some time in its life was ran TOO LOOSE !!! Grove's in the plastic on the primary chain adjuster means at some time in its life the primary chain was ran TOO TIGHT !!! | ||
| Jbragg0916 |
My 2007 xb12r will not go over 25mph regardless of gear. it will shift motor will rev but no power to wheel. any ideas would be great i have a shop with all the tools i could need. i just need to know where to start. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Jbragg0916, this is an M2 section. I copied this information and put it into your other post on the same topic. Everyone, if you have help you want to give Jeff, use that thread please. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=2503406#POST2503406 |
