Author |
Message |
Mikethediabetic
| Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 08:25 pm: |
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hey guys i have lost for the second time now the header stud that screws into the cylinder head. second time it rattled out while i was riding. what are the threads that are tapped into the cylinder head? that the stud screws into. also anyother suggestions to keep this from happaning? |
Jramsey
| Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 08:41 pm: |
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The head is threaded 5/16x18, the nut end is 5/16x24, lock it in by jamming 2 nuts together, tighten the stud in the head then break the 2 jammed nuts loose. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 09:33 pm: |
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THREADLOCK. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 10:18 pm: |
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Copper compound TORQUE'ing compound because if it breaks you can get what's left out !!! Proper assembly and "TORQUE" !!! |
Preybird1
| Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 11:01 am: |
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I had this problem more than once. I tried installing the exhaust system like a 10 different times and i switched the exhaust system twice and nothing. I know everyone says to install it properly. (AND I DID!!) I ended up having to remove the heads and have my friends race shop remove them and drill and tap the heads to accept 10 mm studs. I have had zero problems for years since the repair was made. I have checked my isolator and had them checked twice by pros and they are in good shape. The only thing that we could think of causing this problem is a poorly balance crank assembly. The bike has the update y hanger as it is a 2001. The HD studs and there parts in general are cheap Chinese junk. I took off as many HD parts as possible and i only use them if i can only get those parts. I hate HD quality control......bunch of slackers!! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 11:59 am: |
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Preybird1: Must say that if "i" ever do break an exhaust stud the OEM studs will be up-dated to larger ones ... As large as room will allow ... |
Psykick_machanik
| Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 01:17 pm: |
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I agree with Buelistic, Torquing not over tightening. Breaking things suck. Also like the idea of the stud upgrade when time and $ allow. seems that once you have a problem with a stud it will always be a problem. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 09:52 pm: |
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I have lots of these little studs left over. i knew i had a problem when i had spares all over, like at work in my desk at home in my bedroom parts drawer. And after having to grind for hours to get the broken parts out i was done! Here are some pics. Pray you never have problems here!!
These studs are huge! The nuts on them are used in an ATV application for the exhaust system and the nuts are pressed at the tops to form an oval hole and the do not come off! It takes me some real muscle power to turn those suckers. There is just enough room for a short wobbly socket or box end wrench to fit and tighten them up. You would be surprised how much room there is in one of the XB\XL heads behind the stud. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2012 - 01:48 pm: |
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Follow the service manual torque specs and use new exhaust gaskets as well. The torque for those nuts is actually *very* low. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2012 - 08:37 pm: |
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Rechicheep: "i" torque mine to 6 ft.lbs. IMHO, if stays tight at the minimum torque there is no reason to torque tighter ... NOW if it will not stay tight at maximum out comes the safety wire !!! |