| Author | Message | ||
     Evadmils |
Hey guys, just wonderin what the price point would be for selling my 1997 s1 lightning. I know you guys are up to date on what they're going for. A few details: 20k miles New gaskets from the base up less than 100 miles on them. Rear brake rebuilt at 17k Forks redone at 17k Other performance and cosmetic stuff also, but probably dont affect the price too much. Any help would be appreciated Ps: Sorry, if this is the wrong forum. | ||
| S1owner |
I think 2500 on the low end 3500 on the high end. | ||
| Blks1l |
I'd say unfortunately if you are trying to sell, those numbers are pretty close. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Yeah, according to the market I overpaid for mine. Then again, I liked some of the "extras" and the overall condition seemed right. Still, it was a bargain in my opinion and I don't regret the money spent on it at all. As a frame of reference, I recently paid $3600 for this one: '96 S1   | ||
| Thylacine |
Keep the bike or refuse to let it go cheaply, way too many are sold at a pittance. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Beautiful bike! However, the drive belt looks way too tight. Get Buellistic's instructions and adjust accordingly. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
While I agree that it does look tight in that pic, I don't believe that it really is too tight. I did get the instructions from LaFayette. I didn't do the whole thing of jacking the bike up, disconnecting the shock and getting the rear pulley in line with the swingarm pivot and front pulley. But then again, in all my years of adjusting chain drive bikes I've never done that either. I mean I understand the principle of having the chain/belt adjusted to allow for the full range of suspension movement, but the actual adjustment can be accomplished by just using a benchmark measurement with the bike sitting normally. In my case, and using a combination of LaFayette's instruction, the Buell service manual, and my experience with dealing with chain drive bikes I settled on putting my bike on my rear stand and adjusting the belt to have a total of 2 inches of deflection between pulling it down and pushing it up. This movement was measured at the midway point, on the bottom run, and with the belt at its "tight spot", although in truth I couldn't really find a spot that was appreciably tighter than any other. If anyone has a better baseline measurement for adjustment I'd like to hear it. My adjustments were made with my bike in this position:  | ||
| Thylacine |
Its all fine. Some people put way too much thought into this. If you can adjust a chain. You can adjust a belt. It is not rocket science. There is no way whatsoever to tell how tight a belt is from a picture. | ||
| Evadmils |
Thanks for the info guys...s1 looks good poser. I paid 4k for mine about 5 years ago. I got a new bike with the hopes I would the buell now and again, because I love it. Sadly, I don't and it collects dust in the garage. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Thylacine, Yeah, I've gotten that impression to. After 35 years of motorcycling this seems pretty basic to me too. The general dynamics of a belt is pretty much the same as a chain and they both need enough slack to allow the swingarm to pivot through it's full range without pulling the chain/belt too tight. Other than that there really isn't much difference when it comes to adjustment. In fact, the same issue of people running chains too tight is also seen quite often so this isn't a foreign concept to me. I do see how some people can think they can look at a belt and tell it's too tight. Due to their weight, chains generally have a little "droop" in them when not adjusted too tight, whereas the belts seem to look tight since they run straighter and look taught. But, you're right, the only way to really tell is to measure, or at least eyeball the deflection when physically pushed or pulled. The spec I'm currently using is a little more loose than that found in the factory service manual.  | ||
| Kalali |
poser2, your bike is well worth the price you paid. There is so much variety in the condition of these bikes after so many years that makes them unique, good or bad. You know how much the bike is worth when you see it in the flesh and hear the motor loping at idle... All in all, I think Buell Tubers are the best kept secrets. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Kalali, Yeah, I agree. Regardless of all else, I know that in my opinion, there aren't very many sub-$4000 bikes out there that give me a hard-on quite the way this bike does!  | ||
| S1owner |
Yep my original post was an average i paid 2500 for mine but it had needs and no extras but i wanted a project and no myself well enough that i would tear it apart regardless so the price could easily go up if you factor in the right buyer with good knowledge! | ||
| Jolly |
how much are you thinking about asking? what condition is the bike in....I REALLY dont need another bike....I cant seem to ride the ones I have but here I am asking the question....I would like to have another S1 if the right one came along. Im actually looking for a "fixer-uper" as I have some parts that I could actually take a wrecked bike with a good frame and motor and return to life....anyone have a wrecked one they dont want to mess with tracking down parts and putting back together? | ||
| Evadmils |
I'll take a few fresh pics and post them in the next few days along with a full list of whats done to it...im thinkin somewhere around 3k. |
