Author |
Message |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 06:26 pm: |
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I installed a new Barnett Kevlar Extra Plate Clutch Kit today. Poured ATF Type F as per recommendation by Barnett and when I put the bike in gear and release the clutch lever, and the bike doesnt go anywhere. Seems like the clutch just drags. I followed the instructions from a factory service manual on the install. Adjusted release and adjusting clutch mechanism. What else can I look for? |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 06:28 pm: |
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I have a 1997 M2 Cyclone |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 06:29 pm: |
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Before the clutch kit install the bike was pretty much doing the same thing. It wouldnt go anywhere when I release the clutch lever in gear. So I was thinking the "Grenade plate" or spring was worn. |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 06:33 pm: |
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Maybe I should switch to regular low viscosity oil? Barnett's instruction instructed not to use Formula + and to use either ATF Type F or Low Viscosity motorcycle oil. |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 06:42 pm: |
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original clutch plates were "blued" so I just replaced everything with the kit from Barnett. Clutch fiber plates measured were almost at minimum thickness. |
Mtjm2
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 06:46 pm: |
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Sand , pm Beullistic |
Imaposer2
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 07:19 pm: |
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Did you soak the fiber plates in oil overnight before installing? I doubt that would cause what you describe though, really. If the clutch isn't engaging at all then I'd suspect something wasn't installed or adjusted quite right. Even with bone dry plates the bike will move when in gear if the clutch is operating correctly. |
Jim2
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 07:27 pm: |
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The "Grenade plate" failure would not have prevented the clutch from working. It would still engage but you would have adjustment problems where you adjust it good one day and later it loses adjustment and this cycle would repeat over and over again as the loose spring components shift around the perimeter of the spring plate housing. Of course you would have loose pieces of rivets tearing up your clutch plates and clutch hub during this time but the clutch would still engage and disengage. You had something else wrong to begin with. Did you set the clutch ramp before adjustment? Ramp has to be pushed all the way toward the back of the bike, then you have to turn the center ramp shaft screw clockwise until you meet slight resistance and than back it off counterclockwise a fraction of a turn (I don't remember the amount. It's in the Factory Service Manual). Then adjust the clutch cable. Make sure your output shaft splines aren't destroyed. I've heard of a case where the splines were sheared off and the shaft just spins freely inside the output gear without turning the gear, belt, or rear wheel. |
Devil_car
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 08:15 pm: |
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Adding to the clutch ramp adjustment, the manual has instruction about exercising the clutch lever 3 times, or something along those lines, in order properly seat the three balls. I'm speaking from memory, so you'll want to look at the manual, if you didn't already do this, prior to adjusting the clutch. |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 08:20 pm: |
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I adjusted the ball and ramp mechanism per instructions in service manual. Center adjusting screw has to be turned 1/4 turn clockwise after you meet slight resistance turning it counter clockwise. |
Cyclonecharlie
| Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 07:50 am: |
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With the bike turned off,put it in gear and see how much resistance you get turning the rear wheel. If it still rolls, check countershaft sprocket splines. Also try more than one gear.Good luck |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 04:52 pm: |
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Have you checked the belt drive sprocket splines? I once took a Sportster apart from the clutch side until the transmission slipped cleanly out. Then the chain's drive sprocket fell to the floor. It had torn its splines and retaining nut to shreds. |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 05:34 pm: |
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yeah, I overlooked the front drive pulley. Looks like the lock plate for the nut stripped itself. Now to find a socket big enough to take that nut off and inspect the splines. = ( |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 06:27 pm: |
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Well I got the nut off. Its a 1 7/8" socket if anyone wanted to know. Output shaft spline looks good but the darn pulley is thrashed to hell. Need new pulley, lock plate and nut. Anyone have one laying around? |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2012 - 10:32 pm: |
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29 tooth, should be the same as a sportster pulley. A lot of HD shops keep the take off parts in the back if you need one cheap I'd hit them up. My local shop does a sale every Jan and I got one a few years ago for $5-10 if I remember right. I already gave my spare away so I'm not much help on that. |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 03:20 pm: |
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Thanks Littlebuggles! I have a 27 tooth pulley on it right now. Thinking about going to 26 tooth aftermarket pulley from americansportbike.com. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 08:48 pm: |
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This happened 2x in short order with my S1 when I got it 16 years ago. I took it to an independent shop they used 2 lock plates and 80K miles later same front pully. Be sure to get the correct torque.. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 10:09 pm: |
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I'm starting to doubt my earlier numbers, I wonder if the 29 tooth pulley is the European front pulley. Gonna have to check my parts manual or count teeth on my bike now. For the price that light weight 26 tooth part might be the way to go, especially if you are wearing them out anyway. The differnce will more than pay for your shipping and still leave a few bucks for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. (Message edited by littlebuggles on June 03, 2012) |
Screamer
| Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2012 - 10:40 pm: |
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S2 and S3 came with 29 tooth pulleys. S1 and M2 came with 27 tooth pulleys - as did ( I think...) X1 models (also 2003 and earlier 883 models). i've never tried a 26, but it seems like it would be geared kind of low. RR |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2012 - 08:29 am: |
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Look at it this way: With correct HIGH gearing you ride a mile and you get one mile of wear on your engine ... With LOW gearing you ride a mile and get two miles of wear on your engine ... |
Cyclonecharlie
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2012 - 10:41 am: |
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Most of my riding(unfortunately) is in the city....I changed to a 26 and love it. It's all about how and where you ride.IMO |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2012 - 11:35 am: |
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"RIGHT ON" Cyclonecharlie !!! It seems there are those that gear down to pull stumps and then go ride on the INTERSTATES at 70 MPH ??? |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2012 - 04:20 pm: |
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Anyone know how to torque that front pulley nut without having a special holder tool? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2012 - 04:32 pm: |
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"i" use a brake'er bar wrapped in a old towel and stuck thru the wheel and it rests on the swing arm, works for me !!! |
Sanddamaged
| Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2012 - 07:20 am: |
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Cool thanks buellistic! I'll try that method! |