| Author | Message | ||
     Imaposer2 |
Ok, so I just got my new (to me) '96 S1 last weekend and I'm trying to sort through all of the updates it needs (see my other thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/680303.html?1337439997 ) and would like to check its recall status to make sure all of the factory recalls have been done. For example, if I understand the convoluted shock recall saga correctly, my bike has the first generation shock recall, but not the second. Please correct me if I'm wrong:  Not really sure what that means at this point. I think that I know that when that shock was recalled, the "fix" was to put that clam shell thing on it. Of course this didn't really FIX anything, it just made it so that when the shock did fail it wouldn't allow the back of the bike to drop completely down.  But then, I think that at some point they came out with an all new shock that was supposed to solve the issue. But, what does that mean now? If this bike is still due a shock recall, which fix will I receive? So, anyway, other than my curiosity about the shock issue, what is the best way to go about checking to see what it any additional recalls my bike is yet to receive? Is there a number I should call, or an email address, website... ? | ||
| Buellistic |
You can have a HARLEY-DAVIDSON BUELL SERVICE CENTER run your VIN number for what RECALLS have been done ... By your picture the hydraulic lifter ANTI-ROTATION up-date was not done by previous owner/owners ... | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Not to detract from my original questions about the recalls and the shock I have, but JIMINY CRICKET! WHAT NEXT? I mean, you'd think that after 50 years this engine would have had the weaknesses all solved long ago. These things should be bullet proof by now. And yet, here I am needing to update and change one thing after another before something or another catastrophically fails. It seems as soon as I learn of one thing and ask something about it, I learn of two more things I need to do. Will I EVER get this bike to a point that I can simply enjoy it and not worry about it exploding every time I take it for a spin? I did take it for a little ride today... 'bout a 190 miles. Man what a BIKE!  The more I ride it and get used to the way it runs and handles, the more I LOVE IT! That makes me wonder why I never bought one before. Then all this other stuff makes me question my sanity for doing it at all...  So, what's the skinny on the tappet anti-rotation update? I read about it about half way down this page: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_xlcaminstall.s html and it appears that you are right Beullistic. My bike still has the bolt on pin retainer, so it is the older style. Doesn't sound like a simple "parts swap" type of fix either. I don't mind taking things apart and putting them back together again, but drilling into my cases to lengthen holes, then enlarging outer holes, then tapping, etc? That sounds a bit much to accomplish with the engine together and still in the frame. I would think this is best accomplished with a jig, drill press, and the engine out and apart at the very least. Soooo, what's the risk of leaving this alone, and what's the cost of having it done by someone that knows what the hell they're doing, i.e., a pro? Is there a comprehensive list somewhere, that lists everything that these engines need done to them to be reliable? I'd really like to get ALL my ducks in a row so I can eliminate downtime and avoid going into a part of the engine several times to do things that could have been done all at once. | ||
| Essmjay |
Just go ride it. Do all that next winter. None of the recalls involved failure in any more than a very small percentage of bikes. So just go ride it. | ||
| Buellistic |
Imaposer: "JUST RIDE IT" as "i" have 111.269.9 miles and "i" am worrying how much longer my engine will last ??? Haven't done the ANTI-ROTATION thing on mine yet either, in fact "i" am afraid to take my engine apart because of what "i" may find !!! | ||
| Alfau |
I think, after the initial euphoria, it'll be replaced by the huggermugger of maintenance. "look that up in your Funk & Wagnall's" | ||
| Thylacine |
Just ride the damn thing. I am original owner of a 96 s1. I have 0 recalls done,0. I have never updated my "grenade " plate. Heck I even run ...egads! PAPER gaskets,original valve covers and no catch can. Call me crazy but if it ain't broke. It doesn't need to be fixed. | ||
| Buellistic |
Thylacine: May "i" ask how many miles you have on your 96 S1 ??? | ||
| Screamer |
Imaposer, For recalls, like Buellistic suggested - go through a dealer or call Customer Service. The shock you have is the first replacement shock via the first shock recall, but is not affected or included in the second shock recall. The anti-rotation pins typically are not a concern unless you cams that have high acceleration ramps and extremely heavy springs - or you spend a lot of time over 7000 rpm. | ||
| Bigslug |
IP2, The chances of any of the aforementioned problems causing a catastrophic failure are next to nothing. Leak oil, make a racket sure, but have you walking home, I doubt it. So go ride it and enjoy it, and if it breaks, fix it. Enjoy the ride, Mike | ||
| Thylacine |
My regulator still sits flat, next to a battery on it's long side.my fuel tank has never seen the chomp jaws. And my original oil pump, pumps oil., 46,396 miles and almost 17 years. Serial # 91. And... Original shock! (Message edited by thylacine on May 20, 2012) (Message edited by thylacine on May 20, 2012) | ||
| Essmjay |
Wait ... are you saying that those horrible tank wreaking teeth are just a safety improvement? Doh ...dope slap ... I hate them things and could never see the point. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Thanks guys!  I understand that sometimes the internet can make mountains out of mole hills and give the impression that every bike will certainly explode unless a certain part is replaced. I've actually had people on Advrider argue with me about the infamous oilhead surge issue when I tell them that mine doesn't surge!  I suppose maybe I'll ride it in the interim and try not to worry too much, but all the same I have read of enough rebuilds for unknown reasons to make me wonder... Perhaps some of these guys in other places that have told me horror stories of their Buell experience back in the day, could have had a very different story to tell, had some of these items been addressed back then. And knowing myself, I'll just enjoy the bike more if I know that I've taken preemptive action against some of the better known "issues". The first two things I learned about was the oil pump gear and the primary tensioner. I plan to inspect the oil pump gear for wear periodically, so I'm going ahead and ordering a couple of gaskets for that. Then, I figure that as long as I'm going into the primary to update the tensioner I may as well spring for three new clutch plates and get rid of the spring plate. And then I have heard of the oil puking thing, and since my bike has a tic over 20K miles, it's probably not a bad idea to replace the crank seal while I'm in there too. Also picking up new manifold seals so I'll have a fresh set should I discover a leak at some point (another seemingly small item that has been responsible for big problems), and a couple shift shaft seals. None of these parts are terribly expensive so far anyway. Now, the new exhaust hanger is sorta pricey, but I've read many recommendations to swap it out so it's going on too. Working on my parts order now... Is this the correct replacement for the crank seal? http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17173.html From their site's product description: "17173 - Seal, Flywheel Output Shaft, XL 95-02 Seal, Flywheel Output shaft. This is the updated seal. The old seal was prone to failure, causing your crankcase oil to fill your primary and overflow the primary vent tube."  | ||
| Jim2 |
The oil seal, although not terribly hard to do it still a fairly big job, especially if it doesn't need to be done. If the primary chain was not run at factory specs (too tight) for a long time then you might not have a problem with the oil seal for many more smiles to come. If your bike is not puking out the transmission vent your seal is fine. To do the oil seal you will need a big ol breaker bar and a rather large torque wrench and the larger socket to go with. Maybe you have these already and it's not big deal. You will also need the seal driver tool or make one. If you drive it in too far it will rub against the bearing and ruin your new seal and you'll get to do it over again soon. Oh yeah. When I did mine I said a lot of prayers, cussed a lot, and reflected seriously on life while trying to get that damn old seal out!!! I guess I should mention the bloody knuckles too. But mine was bad and puking out of the transmission vent and had to be done. Just food for thought. | ||
| Essmjay |
That is the correct seal. There is a special installer tool for that seal that helps ensure successful installation. Someone on here might have one you can borrow. I replaced my all of my clutch plates with Energy One, as well as a new spring plate from them. The spring plate is amazing, it gives me a 2 finger clutch pull on my S2. If you are going to disassemble the clutch pack I highly recommend at least getting the spring plate from them. And I would also recommend the clutch plates they have, you can just buy as many as you need, or a full pack. After replacing the clutch pack my S2 has better clutch feel than the '99 S3 I just sold, or my wife's '02 S3. The shifter shaft seal, leave that off until the cover is back on, then wrap the splines on the shaft with teflon tape and use a long socket to tap the seal into place. When you are putting the cover back on, run a string through the bottom chord of the primary chain, pull the chain up tight and tie it off up out of the way. Then you can slide the cover on without having to reach under trying to get the chain up out of the way. Then, when you have the cover up and on with some bolts holding it, untie the str5ing and pull it out, then snug the cover all the way in. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Jim, Well, to be honest, I wasn't originally planning to replace the crank seal. But, then another member recommended that since I was going into the primary to replace the chain adjuster and disassembling the clutch to remove the spring plate, that I may as well put in a fresh crank seal, since they are prone to failure. And since I really have no idea how the primary chain of this bike was run for the last 20K miles it's probably not a bad idea. I have a couple of Snap-On torque wrenches, one of which will go up to 1000 ft/lbs so I think I'm good to go on that part.  But, now that you mention it, I don't know what size sockets I'll need. So, thanks for reminding me of that fact. All of my other bikes have always been metric, and I have sockets up to 36mm. But, my SAE tool stash needs to be augmented a bit now and I really would like to make sure I have all of the tools I need before I begin this project. Can anyone give me a run-down of the larger wrenches or specialty tools I'll need? And do you have any insight or tips about how to best tackle the job of removing the old seal? Essmjay, I have had a couple of other members offer to let me borrow their clutch compressor tool, as well as their crank seal seating tool. I see on Energy One's sight that they currently list a 15% stronger than stock and a 25% stronger than stock clutch diaphragm spring. Which did you use? And many thanks for the tips on the shifter seal and the string trick for reinstalling the cover! I'm sure both of those will save frustration.  | ||
| Jim2 |
I bought the Energy One BTX-11 Extra plate kit w/ 15% stronger spring plate. The extra plate kit includes the two steel and one fiber to replace the OEM "spring (grenade) plate". It was $99 straight from them. But for $60 extra I bought the clutch spring compressor tool at the same time. Energy One recommends against using Synthetic oil with the Kevlar fiber plates. I've been using Shell Rotella T 15W40 since installing the Energy One. I have no complaints at all. I can't claim it's a two finger clutch pull. The pull seems strongest on the first 1/2" pulling in. The engagement is very good and as I have it adjusted, engages fully (seems like) in the first 3/4" letting it out, starting at about 1/4". A member here let me borrow his crank seal seating tool when I did mine (Thanks again Brad). He then had me ship it to yet another member when I was done.  | ||
| Jim2 |
Don't forget the main shaft nut (the one over the clutch hub) has left handed threads (clockwise to loosen). 4" hinge for the lock bar. I needed a new electric edger blade so I took my old one and cut it down to 4 1/8" (same as OEM tool) and rounded the edges and use it for the lock bar. I've used it 3 times now, no problem. Sure wish I could remember the size of the sockets. One has to be a deep well and I can't remember which one. I think one was a hard to find SAE size but the close metric six point (30mm I think?) worked just fine even with the high torque loads. (Message edited by jim2 on May 22, 2012) | ||
| Jim2 |
Here is some of my pictures in this thread. http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/5 63886.html?1274364920 | ||
| Essmjay |
I also have the 15% stronger spring plate. I think you would need some serious horsepower increases to require the 25% plate. I needed all 4 fingers on the clutch before changing over, now I can use just two. I do carve stone for a living though, so my fingers are pretty strong. I forget the socket sizes right now, I bought a 1" drive set from HF that I just use for that job. Has a breaker bar and a ratchet | ||
| Bigslug |
Just bought the sockets from Lowes this winter, was tired of bringing them home from work. 1-1/8" and 1-3/16" are the two sizes. Mike | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Most EXCELLENT! Just the info I need! Now I just need to know what the exact diameter of the clutch spring compressor took needs to be. I can easily source some 4in or 3 in pipe but I'm not sure what th min and max ID and OD will work. I mean I sure I could figure it out once I have everything exposed but I'd like to have everything ready beforehand. I just ordered most everything I need this morning. Still need to decide about the clutch, but I'm leaning toward just swapping three new plates in place of the spring plate. Anyone have experience with Alto friction and steel plates? Just doing a quick online search I see that JPCycles has them listed as the replacement for the OEM part #37911-90. Would these aftermarket disc be compatible with the factory clutch pack? | ||
| Jim2 |
Randy. PM sent. | ||
| Thylacine |
Sorry so long on reply. 56k. Every single mile flogged |
