| Author | Message | ||
     Fenderbender |
I just bought a 2001 Cyclone M2L a few weeks ago. Looks like an oil leak is coming from the front left side of the rocker box. Seems to splatter everywhere onto the tranny case and throughout the bottom of the engine when I ride. I'm pretty sure I need to get in and replace the rocker box gaskets. I check the oil level every time I ride, which is only about 15 miles back and forth to work right now. My question is,how long can I keep riding it like this? Do I need to go ahead and pull the engine immediately, or can I keep riding for a couple more months and monitor the situation? I do plan to fix it, but I just want to ride right now, even if it's messy.I don't want to damage the engine, however, so I need some advice.When I do pull the engine, I'm going to go ahead and knockout some painting, etc. at the same time to get it all knocked out. I'll probably be out of commission for a couple of months. | ||
| Outdoors |
Changing the gaskets is a pretty easy fix and the new style gaskets are much better than original. Remove the tank and change the gaskets so you can enjoy your riding time. I would estimate two hours to change them out. I needed to cut down a allen key to get at a couple bolts but other than that it is strait forward. | ||
| Hootowl |
You do not need to pull the motor to take the rocker box covers off. As Wes noted, the new gaskets are better, they're metal. I've never heard of a set leaking. The paper ones blow after a few thousand miles. If you have any sort of mechanical ability, you can change them in under two hours, soup to nuts. I wouldn't ride it too much with them leaking. Just more crap to clean off the engine. | ||
| Fenderbender |
This is why I love this board. I appreciate the feedback. Maybe I wont't be off the road too long then. I need to order the parts and get crackin | ||
| Fenderbender |
where would be the best place to order from? | ||
| Jramsey |
H-D # 17036-91A. As mentioned before cut down the short end of a hex key like this as it makes life much easier.  | ||
| Fenderbender |
Thanks for the tip! | ||
| Buellistic |
You need to make some IMPROVISED TOOLS so you can correctly/properly "TORQUE" the rocker arm covers which prevents future weeping/leaking !!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
While Buellistic is correct, I will say that having done this on a tuber, you can get a normal torque wrench on 3 of the 4 bolts, and then use your cut down allen wrench to do the 4th, and compare how hard you turn it to the three that are torqued correctly... I back off one of the good ones a quarter turn, turn it tight again a quarter turn noting how hard I push, and push that hard on the other one. Not perfect, but it worked the first two times I tried it. No leaks. | ||
| Buellistic |
My IMPROVISED TOOLS allow me to CORRECTY/PROPERLY "TORQUE" every fastener on the rocker arm covers and rocker arm supports ... "i" do not believe in doing things "HALF ARSED" and that is why "i" have 111,269.9 miles as of the last ride on my 1997 S3T !!! "BELIEVE IT OR NOT" the top end has never been off !!! | ||
| Fenderbender |
What other improvised "tools" do I need to be adding to the toolbox? And is it unadviseable to torque it too much? | ||
| Buellistic |
As long as any extension is 90 degrees to the torque wrench the scale on the torque wrench will read the correct torque !!! Make my IMPROVISED ROCKER ARM TOOLS using double end box wrenches(buy off SNAP-ON tool truck), cut off allan wrenches, long nuts(buy at ACE HARDWARE), and couple of BAR TYPE TORQUE wrenches ... "i" do not recommend CLICK TYPE wrenches unless you know where you can get them CALIBRATED every 90 days(if used a lot) or "IF DROPPED" !!! | ||
| Buellistic |
"NOW" lets talk about TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ... "i" use COPPER COMPOUND TORQUE'ing COMPOUND because it dissipates heat better(buy at ACE HARDWARE or NAPA) ... Torque'ing should not only put on the threads, "BUT" ALSO ON ANY METAL TO METAL CONTACT !!! The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL gives you TORQUE SPECS. in "INCHES" and "FOOT" POUNDS ... Some times the torque specs. are wrong !!! When you are torque'ing into aluminum you can literally feel the threads pulling out of the aluminum if the torque specs. are wrong !!! Example: spark plug specs. are 11 to 18 foot pounds, my spark plugs stay tight at 12 foot pounds(yes, the spark plug washer has been crushed) ... If you divide 12 into inch pounds you get foot pounds, so you do not always need to have an inch pound torque wrench ... | ||
| Fenderbender |
Thx for the info. I feel like I just enrolled into Buell maintenance 101. I am all ears. I am not a mechanic, but I want to do everything I can myself. I have the M2 manual, but books can only tell you so much. That's why I depend on badweb. Keep it coming! | ||
| Thewheel69 |
Hey there gang, newbie Buell owner with a 99 Cyclone M2 and the fun rockerbox leak. Question to Buellistic and others: what are the "Improvised tools" (other than the cut down allen key) and is there a step by step specific to the Cyclone to allow the rocker box covers and head to be removed while the engine is still in the bike? I have watched a video on an 883 sportster tear down and totally understand that but need to get a better idea of any workarounds considering the frame is "right there" on a Cyclone. Thanks in advance! |
