| Author | Message | ||
     Gmaan03 |
My second gear jumps out. I was told to get a baker shift drum which I will. My question to you all is what do I need to watch for when pulling my transmission. How hard is it to remove the clutch and parts. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Get the manual for your year and model. The shift drum alone is not the problem. It could actually be different/other problems. It could be 3 different things and you wont know until you get it out/open. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My second gear started to do that at about 45,000. If I nailed it, it would stay in gear but if I rolled on the throttle, it would hop out. It was the dogs on the gears themselves very slightly worn. Shift drum won't fix that. As I recall, the dealership price for the repair was $720 Parts+Labor. It was the last thing that my extended warranty covered! Two more months and I would had to pay up. | ||
| Gmaan03 |
I have the manual, and am ordering the shift drum because I was told it helps shifting. I am looking for teardown tips and issues to look for. I already received quotes for the gears. | ||
| 14d |
Have a machinist polish your shift drum, smooth the edges in the groves and solder the positioning pins in, as well as tap the drum for a bolt, eliminating the clip that hold's the detent plate on. This is what I did to mine when I had the tranny out replacing a gear. Only cost me twenty bucks and it shifts MUCH smoother. Essentially the same thing as the baker smooth shift kit a whole lot cheaper. Might be able to do all this yourself, IIRC the difficult part of replacing the post with a threaded hole was the hardness of the metal making it difficult to tap.  | ||
| Gmaan03 |
Well I can door all of that! It worked good for you. How long ago how many miles? | ||
| Gmaan03 |
Stupid spell check! I meant " I can do all of that" | ||
| Jramsey |
Pretty easy to machine the (clip area of drum is dead soft) and drill/tap 10-24/32 and use a button head.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
It will be easy to see if the pins are backed out and cockeyed... They probably arent, you just have worn dogs on the gear pair. I fixed mine over a weekend and for under $300 in parts, and that includes a shot output shaft and destroyed 5th gear drive assembly bearings. | ||
| Someday |
Yup, worn gear dogs. | ||
| Preybird1 |
When mine started doing that i pulled the whole tranny and sent it into zippers and had them change my gears that were bad. Then i purchased the billet tranny trap door and had all the gears back-cut and all the springs bearings completely replaced. I spent about 1,300.00 on my tranny and don't regret it at all. I do however wished i spent another 800 for the 6th gear! | ||
| 14d |
Was about 2 years ago I had it done, about 4k miles since then with no problems. Secured the bolt with red threadlocker. Sad to say I haven't put many miles on in the last year or so. She needs some tires pretty badly right now, and I haven't had the funds for it lately. Jramsey's way looks a little easier. The shift drum is around 55-60 Rockwell C IIRC, while the pin itself is much softer. | ||
| Schmidt452 |
I had some major trans issues as well, one of the small retaining pins broke or got broke the retain the pin into the shift drum. So the next shift the shift fork did not move, but the other two did... Let’s just say it is better to be in just one gear at a time. I ended up picking up a gear set out of an 04 sportster swapping out the gears. I also did just as Jramsey did drilled and taped the end of a new shift drum, I also drilled and taped the shift fork for some set screws in place of the cotter pin. By making sure everything was fitted nicely my X1 now shifts better that it did the day it rolled off the assembly line. |
