| Author | Message | ||
     Tbolt98 |
I have searched and read many posts and just want to clarify... I am finally getting around to taking care of the blistering tank paint on my S3. It has gotten pretty bad and i was able to peel off close to 2/3 of the paint on the tank! Has anybody found a safe stripper to use yet or will i just have to sand it down? I also need to straighten out the best method of re-paint and from what i read in other posts it sounds like Al has some pretty good information on it... is this true? | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Anybody? | ||
| Bikerrides |
Is there really any such thing as a safe stripper?  Sorry, I don't know anything about paint and body work, but couldn't resist that set up.  | ||
| Rex |
I am sure this has been discussed somewhere. I have seen the tanks being sanded in the old days at the factory. The problem is keeping the gas bubbles from coming back out thru the paint after your repaint. There is something special you need to do, to seal the tank, so that the gas bubbles does not go thru the material, and build up under the paint. REX | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Yes ... it has been discussed many many times with no definitive answer that i have found! I really only want to do this once so i was wondering if there was any newer info. | ||
| Tbolt98 |
@bikerrides... you are correct, but they're still fun! | ||
| Bikerrides |
Absolutely, Tbolt. Absolutely! | ||
| Bikerrides |
Just like motorcycles, they're not known for safety, but they're a lot of fun to ride!  | ||
| Bgbrd |
Yes definitely seal the tank. I'm getting my S3 tank ready and sealed it with two part epoxy from Caswell plating. Have used it on steel, fiberglass and now plastic. Works well and they have good tech support | ||
| Badsix2 |
get some SEMS bumper striper in a spray can it works good | ||
| Xl1200r |
There are three ways to paint the tanks: 1) The "correct" way is to follow the factory's specs for primer and paint. However, we can assume the factory also followed this and we all know how well that turned out. I believe Al's method is based on this and has better results than Buell's did. The idea is to use think layers of paint and primer that can breathe. 2) Seal the inside of the tank. Last I knew, there wasn't anything that was 100% certain to work correctly with the type of plastic our tanks are made out of. 3) Lay on tons of primer, paint and clear and cross your fingers that the extra material will keep it from bubbling. | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
the reason your paint is pealing is that their was to much time between the primer coat and the color coat, this allowed the primer to "set up" so the two coats didn't adhere to each other. Or the tank wasn't preped properly. Definitely follow the paint manufacturers instructions on time between coats. If its not on the can the instructions are on-line. not to start a debate but the gas doesn't permeate threw the plastic tank. the only additive you might want to use (i didn't) is a flex agent. this will allow the paint to flex with the tank. All the old paint needs to come off so you have a proper base to start with. Some times we can strip paint off of non metallic parts with a heat gun and scraper. Not an ideal method to use on a gas tank but thats my two cents. | ||
| Badsix2 |
i've done the paint your tank thing 2 times and it looked great for about a year then the bubbles started.i did it just the way your supose to. i've been in the paint buisness for over 30 years, i think its a losing battle. my last go around with the tank was to strip all the paint and cover it with several layers of fiberglass and block it to shape. this work well other than i got cracks in the glass do to expantion i believe, i didn't use any cloth. my next atack on this is to make a fiberglass cover that will snap over the top of the tank. anyone have an old batwing si tank i could get cheep to use for a mold? | ||
| Tbolt98 |
I peeled most of the rubbery paint off that reeked of gasoline so i do believe that the tank is permeable! | ||
| Jolly |
Im testing a tank sealer. It was recommended to me by a guy that makes aluminum gas tanks, even for the tube frame Buells, they look great but cost 2,000.00....ouch! anyway, he recommended a product from Hirsch automotive, a specialist in old, antique car restoration. I called them up and ordered a can. they didnt recommend it for plastic because they had never tested it. I figure for 30.00 its worth a test. earlier this week I painted some on the bottom of a donor tank (ugliest thing you have ever seen)to see if it would eat the paint, I also painted some on an unpainted section where the fuel petcock mounts to see if it would eat the plastic. put one coat on, waited 48 hours, painted a second coat. checked it today, its not eating the plastic and its cured very hard, but nice and thin. next step is to wipe the areas with gas to see if it flakes off. by next week I plan to coat the inside of the tank, wait 48 hours then put on a second coat. once that cures I'll put gas in it and let it sit a few weeks then drain the gas through a filter to see if anything comes out of the tank. I will keep you guys posted on the progress. as a side note they sent a write up on why most tank sealers dont work and how theirs is different. If anyone else wants to run their own test the name of the company is Hirsch automotive products, email, info@hirschauto.com, website www.hirschauto.com, phone 800-828-2061 | ||
| Jolly |
got an extra 2,000.00 for a gas tank??? check out www.wilcoxmetal.com, stumbled onto this somehow as it doesnt show up on google when searching for aluminum gas tanks....one blind link to another blind link and there it was. click on usa models, then scroll to the bottom...aluminum manta ray tank. back to the sealer test...since I dont have 2k for a tank | ||
| Jolly |
 | ||
| Tbolt98 |
I've seen that aluminum tank before... badass but i don't have the coin for that either! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
The "big secret" is cure time once the paint is done. You need to let it cure properly, we're talking weeks to months. If you put fuel in it before it is fully cured the fuel vapors will get between the paint and primer layers and cause new bubbling. I have the data in an email sent to me in 05 by Al. PM me if you want it. Tanks are made of nylon. Strongly suggest against using heat is it will probably distort the tank material. I'll find some links for you to some older threads on the matter. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Here's a thread with the standard deviation somewhere in the middle and coming back to the point eventually. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/653192.html?1318913876 | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Here's a better link as the thread contains the docs from Al: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/618043.html?1313031137 | ||
| Jolly |
I checked the second link you posted and it didnt get into any detail about paint? and nothing from Al, bad link? so is it worth trying to line the tank with the stuff I'm experimenting with or is it simply let the tank cure for months? this must be one of the most chatted topics and here I am bringing it up yet again. though maybe trying the sealer on a donor tank would help bring a new perspective...anyone used the stuff I'm trying before? Are there a complete set of instructions on how to paint? Ive seen the list of paint products but nothing special on the how to and what worked best process. I think I am going to let the sealer cure for a few weeks, then add gas and let it sit for a a few weeks then strain it to see what comes out of the tank....then paint...then cure for an eternity... by the way, (idiot question of the day and its early yet..) I dont seem to see a link to pick up PMs...do they go straight to your registered email account? | ||
| Jramsey |
"I dont seem to see a link to pick up PMs...do they go straight to your registered email" Yep. | ||
| Jolly |
tried the link again...it worked this time, found both files..some kinda voodoo magic in the computer....I'll read them and get them to a painter after I seal this tank. thanks for the link. has anyone found a painter they trust to paint these? I dont mind shipping a tank to get it to someone that has done these before and knows what they are up against. I'm on a business trip over the weekend but hopefully home on Sunday then put the first coat of sealer in the tank now that I know it wont eat the tank itself. more to follow on that. | ||
| Jolly |
I just checked the tank, wiped the two areas down with gas to see how it would react. The area that was painted on the belly of the tank has a really rough texture (from the factor), the sealer held up well, didnt peel or flake off. on the unpainted section where the fuel petcock mounts I was able to peel the sealer off. could have had some impurities that the sealer didnt like or it may have been too smooth and therefore the sealer was unable to bond. I think I will try a chemical etching compound also offered by Hirsch. any one had any luck with any products? this is less fun than my other hobbies.... "BGBRD" any luck with the two part epoxy sealer? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
You're brave, it would be nice to find a donor tank some day. For the outside prep I'd feel a lot safer taking a scotch brite pad to my tank until it's a nice even flat matte all over, rather than using chemicals that might melt it. I can see why you'd go that route (chemical etcher, those are acid generally aren't they?) for a sealer since you can't scotch brite the inside of the tank but still... That aluminum tank is sexy. I don't think I'd ever leave my garage if I had one of those. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Jolly - I wonder if you took the tank somewhere with a sand blaster they could stick the hose inside and move it around a bit to roughen up the surface? I also wonder if there's something you could put in the tank and shake around to do the same thing... | ||
| Jolly |
I'm going to call Hirsch automotive tomorrow and see what they think about the etching compound on the nylon tank, and of course, it is a donor tank, so testing the outside first(on the bottom where its hidden in case the tank can be saved)to be able to see what it is doing is always the first approach. Im certainly having one of those days...my other project is changing the forks on my x1 to s2 forks. I have an x1 with the eurocomponents fairing and hate the clubman style bar. bought a brand new pair of s2 forks (taller) and some LSL 54mm clipons to sit on top of the tripple clamp. also bought a brand new top clamp for an s2 so I get rid of the cradle...pulled other bikes out of garage to make room, got front and rear stand out, lifted the bike up, drank a beer and stared at if for 30 min and decided to big a project to start at 4:00..no where near motivated enough after three days of driving for and two days of a conference..bike back off the lifts, put everything away....time wasted 1 hour (more?), forward motion...zero.. this is exactly how the side trip gets started in a thread..now I'm guilty... | ||
| Jramsey |
Drinking beer with your garage buddy's (bikes) is not a waste of time. Check your emails. | ||
| Jolly |
Talked to the expert (owner?) of Hirsch automotive today. He claims it's the only product certified for aircraft fuel bladders...gotta be worth something in that claim. Anyway, kind of walked him through the problem and what happened. the full story is that after I painted on the sealer to see what it would do to the tank, I taped the hole where the fuel petcock mounts so that I could pour some gas in to flush out the tank. when I pulled the metal tape off the hole it pulled off the sealer. He feels the heavy adhesive on the tape pulled the sealer off...wont be an issue since Im not putting tape into the tank.... He also said that the etching compound is only for metal tanks no need on a synthetic tank. (he calls anything not metal synthetic). So Im going for it, going to jump in and seal the tank, wait 48 hours and then add a second coat, then after that cures..may give it more than the recommended time... and add fuel and let it sit for a week or two and drain it, see what flushes out. His claim, nothing better on the market. I'll try and remember to take the time and scan the the information he sent then load it as a doc to the thread. |
