| Author | Message | ||
     Schmidt452 |
I need some help, my X1 runs good for 2-3 miles and then starts missing. First at upper RPM's closer to wide open throttle and then over the next mile the missing and popping moves down and closer to 3k and lesser throttle setting. I have checked and set the timing. It has new plugs, the AFV is 104. The engine temp rises what I consider normally. The intake temp seams ok too. I am at a loss as to what to check next and thankful for any advice. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Check the head temp sensor. You using ECM Spy? | ||
| Schmidt452 |
I am using ECM spy, I want to say that after my 3 mile run last night the head temp was 157, converted = 314 deg f. It does hotter than it should considering it was in the upper 60's. The last time I rode it, it was around thanksgiving when the temps where in the upper 30's and it ran ok then. I have been chasing this issue since last fall... | ||
| Van |
I got some of the same symptoms as you on my '00, another member suggested intake seals. You can test by spraying some carb cleaner or propane around the seals. I am also using ECMspy and someone also said their problems didn't start until after they started using it. I hope that isn't the case but I have a new copy of the Race ecm map so i am gonna try to reload it. | ||
| Buellistic |
"DEVILS IN THE DETAILS !!!" BAD INTAKE SEALS mess with the HEAD TEMPERATURE SENSOR ... BAD REAR HEADER GASKET mess'es with the 02 sensor ... | ||
| Nukeblue |
while you're sprayin carb cleaner around the intake gaskets don't forget the injectors, i had an injector o-ring leak vacuum just like an intake seal once. did the intake seals three times before i figured it out | ||
| Schmidt452 |
Thanks for the advice, I will check them tomorrow. I took a video tonight, I was holding a steady throttle, should have been steady around 3k. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA1Ao4GIGkM&feature =youtu.be | ||
| Schmidt452 |
OK I picked a can of Gumout carb and choke cleaner tonight, sprayed the intake, injectors and the throttle body with no effect. I have all ready replaced the coil last summer and the ignition switch. Not real sure where to go from here, I don't want to start throwing parts at it. Another clue when it starts to miss if you give it more gas it will kill the motor... it fires right up but still seems odd. Also it will not bump start you have to turn off the key and hit the starter. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I'm thinking intake seals. Tricky to get sealed, as you must pull both side in equally. Use the Syl-Glide or whatever the silicone lube is called when installing. The reason it seems to run better the first couple of miles is that you are in open-loop mode using different fuel maps to help the engine when cold. After that, during normal acceleration, your engine is operating in closed loop, that is, using the ECM, O2sensor, TPS, ETS, IAT to keep everything balanced. I'd start with new intake seals. | ||
| Schmidt452 |
Thanks for the advice I am going to pull the tank off tonight and check the wiring and start yanking it apart. | ||
| Kalali |
I sort of disagree with the intake seals diagnosis. If the seals were bad enough to cause such driveability symptoms, the AFV should go through the roof, or would certainly be higher than 104. This may seem odd but my money is on bad grounds (the strap near the swing arm, the ground block under the seat) and/or faulty plug wires. Assuming the battery has been ruled out. One last thing- I would also check the wire going to the head temp sensor. That wire gets easily damaged. Good luck. (Message edited by kalali on March 24, 2012) | ||
| Firemanjim |
I am with Kalai, AFV is in normal range, something else is up. And head temp sensor going bad would skew AFV as well. | ||
| Snowbees |
when my bank sensor started going bad gassing it would kill it, and you had to cycle the ignition switch to restart, and as yours it would not bump. It can be turned off in ecmspy by unchecking the box in the ecm config. tab. worth a try. Dodgy ignition switch, clutch or stand switch can give problems too, get rid of the last two. | ||
| Pash |
Log some data with ECMSpy. A chap Snowbees and I know had an issue with his X1, he changed most things including ECM and CPS. Logging data allowed him to see that when the bike cut out, engine speed dropped to zero. This suggested a fault in the wiring between CPS and ECM. A slave harness was made to go from CPS to ECM directly and the problem went away. Not saying it is the same issue with yours, but logged data shared on the forum may help isolate the fault... Story here - http://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147771# p147771 | ||
| Schmidt452 |
In has a new battery, I am putting in new intake seals there too cheap to not... When pulling the bike apart I did see some corrosion on one of injectors electrical connections. I checked the Diodes (I believe that is what they are called, next to the fuses), I will also check the grounds, as well as the head sensor wire it looked ok but… watching the gauge on ECMspy I never saw it do anything funny when wiggling the wire around. I also checked the fuses for corrosion they where good too. | ||
| Brumbear |
Do a compression and leak down test it may be a bad vavle seat, as the motor heats up things get out of whack. | ||
| Schmidt452 |
Final got it back together, new intake seals, new fuel filter checked wires for rubbing and the problem did not change… I need to get a new battery for my laptop to do some data logging. The side stand switch is bypassed as well. What is normal operating temp for the motor? Could the motor be looking for more fuel? I thought about setting the AFV to 110 or 115 and see what happens. |
