| Author | Message | ||
     Fastcar37 |
I just got a 99 x1 and here are the problems. Cracked header (I welded it), missing front exhaust mount (I made one), stripped rear exhaust stud hole (I helicoiled it), blackened plugs (I cleaned them), old O2 sensor (I replaced it), low battery voltage (I charged it), 02G stock ecm (I got ECMSPY and here is where it gets interesting). I got the ebay cable and maps. I tried to load the 2000x1 EEPROM but i get the error that says its not compatible with my ecm, so I copy paste the fuel and ignition maps. Now the bike is hard to start and when it does it will not stay running long. The reason for doing this is it has a loud backfire problem and surges at highway speeds and misses below 3k. I have not doe a TPS reset yet because it showed 5.9 on the program. Any advice? | ||
| 01x1buell |
well what is your afv?? the blackened plugs would say that it is to rich.... i was not able to load the eeprom on my x1 either i did the same as you and loaded the maps .i have never had a problem otherwise with that. i am sure that someone else will be able to help you out here. | ||
| 01x1buell |
it does sound like it is running to rich.. what intake and exhaust do you have?? | ||
| Oldog |
I hope that you saved your prom BEFORE you started messing around...... you have things to check FIRST with the butterfly completely closed the tps should = 0 idle position is about 5% what is the AFV have the intake seals been changed? what intake and exhaust do you have? what do the cold temps on ET & ait look like relative to ambient air temp? | ||
| Fastcar37 |
Ok thank you everyone for your replies. I found that the ait sensor had a broken wire so I ran out and got a new one with a harness pig tail and am about to put that in. The bike has a forcewinder intake and V&H muffler. What is "AFV" I sprayed starting fluid around the intake seals and no rpm change. I believe the too rich condition was due to the broken exhaust stud, you could almost stick your fingers into the exhaust port. It was the rear cyl where the o2 sensor is. I was also thinking burnt exhaust valve? | ||
| Fastcar37 |
Ok, here is another update. AFV is at 110% but the funny thing is the intake air temp sensor says 125 degrees C for a cold bike and two different sensors. I ohmed out the wires from the sensor plug to the ecm and they are fine but it still throws a code saying there is an open in it. The sensor ohms out incredibly high. Anyone know what these sensors are supposed to do or a way to trick it to get the bike started? | ||
| Oldog |
Typicaly Cold I check the Iat and the Et temps and see how close they are to each other and ambient new sensors can be skewed I have had no luck measuring resistance of the sensors. the exhaust leak must be fixed as you suspect the air leak will throw off the o2 sensor AFV = adaptive fuell value good catch on the broken wire check the harness connectors the wire can be broken in the jacket DAMHIK | ||
| Fastcar37 |
I have fixed the exhaust leak (first thing done to the bike). I cleaned all the connector interfaces I found. The cold ET is pretty close to room temp but the IAT says its 482 degrees F or 250 C. I got the sensor off of a Ford Taurus because that is what was in there when I got the bike. It looks just like the ones on Ebay for the bike. Does anyone know of a part number of source for one that is known to work? Is there a way to calibrate the new IAT sensor with ECMSPY? | ||
| Fastcar37 |
Ok, I figured out the IAT sensor reading error. When I copy pasted the fuel and ignition maps from the race EEPROM to mine I copy pasted the fuels first and hit burn maps. Then the ignition and hit burn maps. This is when I noticed the bad sensor because I changed it at the same time. I loaded the original EEPROM and burned it to the ecm and BAM it was right again. So I then tried copy paste on the maps and hit burn EEPROM and it caused the same error with the ultra high temp reading. I burned the original EEPROM back on again and then copy pasted the maps and checked the box that says changes only next to the burn EEPROM button. IT WORKED! I have the race maps and a good temp reading. Now when I start the bike (and it was doing this before as well) it backfires through the exhaust when accelerating. Could this just be the ECM learning? Could the race ignition maps be too much for it? Side note, I found the mechanical noise. Its the front break rotor. | ||
| Two_seasons |
The front rotor rattling around during idle is annoying. I still need to replace mine but, for right now, it still works great. You might want to check your static timing for the backfiring. Also, a TPS reset can't hurt either. Make sure right after that you let the bike idle for several minutes, then take it out and vary your speed a lot within the closed loop mode (1800 to 3200 rpm IIRC). Sounds like you're a good troubleshooter. Best wishes to you to get it purring again. | ||
| Snowbees |
If you change your eeprom you must do a tps reset. The iat is the inlet air temp which wont vary much , should read ambient temp. the engine temp sensor (ETS) should start when cold at ambient temp then rise steadily as the motor warms up when viewed on screen with ecmspy. Any irratic temp movement means its faulty. Check the wire to the ets is not worn by rubbing on the rocker cover and its connector is clean. My x1 used to pop/miss at around 3k rpm with race maps, i tuned the maps to get a smooth throttle response using ecmspy and megalog viewer. See the tunning guide at ecmspy.com. | ||
| Fastcar37 |
Thanks two seasons and snowbees. I did a tps reset last night but did not get out and ride it because of the backfire. I will check the static timing tonight when I get home. Here is another thing I think could be related to the backfire, if it is caused by a lean condition. I put too much fuel injector cleaner in the tank. I put half a bottle in (treats 10 gallons) and my tank was only 2/3 full. How much do these tanks hold, I just got it and it had a full tank so I haven't had to fill it yet? Has anyone had a backfire because of too much fuel injector cleaner? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Our tanks are a bit larger than 4 gallons. | ||
| Fastcar37 |
Ok so here is the latest. I thought I would just check again with the starting fluid around the intake area so I started the bike up and it was idling good. I sprayed it down and there was no change in rpm. I had been reading about someone finding a cam sensor not quite seated all the way and was going to check that but I reved the bike up and no backfire. I jumped on and rode to the gas station and filled it up with no problems. Ran great. I started it to come back home and it was running rough again and missing and backfiring so I jiggled the ignition key and what do you know, it got better. I never thought anything of it but this whole time it has been a little touchy to get to the ignition setting. I have to do a little bit of jiggle action to get the tach and odo to light up when I go to start the bike. I didnt think anything of it because the bike would start and run and I had checked the connection where it plugs into the harness and that was fine. I didnt even consider that the actual switching part my be corroded from sitting outside at the coast for 5 years. I bet the vibration was killing the motor just long enough to miss an injector pulse and cause random lean cyl. and misfires. I also found the diode for the ignition relay is temperamental if I touch it the relay freaks out. I had already cleaned this connection so I didnt think anything of it until I started pushing on fuses and stuff. So between these two things I think I may have it. | ||
| Fastcar37 |
Well, it has been 500 miles since the ignition switch and diode. Still running great! Not bad for $2,100. | ||
| Oldog |
enjoy! |
