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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Went out to start up the bike, and NOTHING. Details:
Battery less than 1 year old
On a trickle charger
13.0 A at battery
13.0 A at ignition switch
Ignition switch checks out fine (zero resistance in run, infinite in off)
Start and run relays are relatively new. Flip-flopped them anyway and no change.
Kickstand switch is permanently bypassed
Bypassed clutch switch and no change.
Diodes terminals were rusty, cleaned them up and re-inserted. No change.
Main circuit breaker - 0 ohms resistance across terminals.
I am not even getting dash lights, or headlight or brake light. Nothing. The entire elec circuit is dead. My shop manual is packed away since we are moving next week.

Any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this running since I have to ride it away from where the movers are going to deliver it at the end of next week.

Kilroy
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Of course I meant 13.0V not 13.0A

Thanks in Advance

Kilroy
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can, jump the battery with a car battery, car not running of course.

And make sure those battery connections are snugged up.
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They are snug. I am concerned that there is nothing electrically on the bike that is energized. I tried again with all the lights out in a dark garage, and I get a very little bit of light in 1 of the 2 gauge backlights, and if I hit the horn it gives 1 very weak note and that is it. I know it will start once whatever is keeping the whole bike dead is fixed. Again, I have 13.0 volts at the battery.

Kilroy
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you lost a cell in the battery.

Can you load test the battery at a battery place?
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could I have a solid 13.0V in a battery with a dead cel?
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your main ground at the swingarm mounting block.

Take out all your fuses and put them back in.
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5liter
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What Hootowl said.
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Buellathebuzzer
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

put the volt meter across the batter and read the voltage when you hit the starter.
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Voltage goes from 13.0 to about 0.5 when I turn the key from "off" to "run". Thats without hitting the starter. Stays at 0.5 when you hit the starter button.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Either your battery is hosed, or you've got a loose connection at the battery terminal. A little resistance caused by corrosion will drop a lot of voltage when you try to pass current through it.

Your battery could have 13 volts statically, but not be able to maintain that when a load is applied if it has gone south.
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Kilroy
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK so it looks like battery load test and check the main ground connection on the mounting block. Will try these in the AM.

Thanks Hoot and other folks

Kilroy
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Kilroy
Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2012 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looks like it was the battery. My own advice is to always check the simple stuff first, but the 13V threw me off. I've never had a battery with a "bad cell" before this one. Now I just need to keep an eye on the charging system to make sure that is not what killed the battery -

Thanks to Two Seasons and Hootowl for the expert diagnosis

Kilroy
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