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Bikerrides
| | Posted on Sunday, April 29, 2012 - 11:28 pm: | 
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No, but I will do that before I go out again. I assume the vibration is coming from the exhaust somewhere, since it was taken off and/or loosened then put back on and retightened. |
Alfau
| | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2012 - 02:29 am: |
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Re Vibration,
Check to see if the drain plug to the gearbox is touching the exhaust.
other data that I need to look at on the .
To the left hand side in MLV,you can use the arrows to select any of the aspects to be displayed in whatever color you like.
There are three languages to learn, ECMspy and MLV. Which abbreviations represent what, and then convert the whole lot into Buell Terminology. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2012 - 05:15 am: |
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DannyBUELL:
You do not re-torque the 4 header nuts once assembled/installed correctly ...
EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION Class 101, just PM me for a copy ...
Have 111,208.6 miles as of the last ride and have never broken a OEM exhaust stud yet ... |
Dannybuell
| | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2012 - 10:18 am: |
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THX Lafayette |
Jayvee
| | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2012 - 09:49 pm: |
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Those look about like my M2 when I took off the header. I had a leaky exhaust gasket, and could see soot on the head where the leak was. Those gaskets look 'normal' used, to me. |
Alfau
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 06:11 am: |
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Bikerrides
Language lessons.
Understand DDFI from the Harley-Davidson Motor Company
http://www.primenumbers.org/buell/Buell%20DDFI.pdf |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 08:59 pm: |
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Today was the first time I had a chance to ride the Buelligan since Sunday. Before I took her out, I loosened all the muffler brackets and connectors slightly and then started the bike and let it idle for a few minutes. Then I tightened the first point where the header attaches to the muffler; restarted and let her idle a few minutes. Then I tightened the next attachment down the line...restart and idle...next down the line...idle...down to the last place the muffler attaches.
Then out for a test ride. The bike ran better than it did on Sunday and the vibration was significantly reduced, but not completely eliminated. However, I was riding w/the rear fairing removed from the bike and the bottom of the seat can make contact w/the frame w/out the rear fairing. I replaced the rear fairing and plan to ride to work tomorrow. Hopefully, I will find that the vibration is gone.
I was more encouraged by how the bike ran than the reduction in vibration. No hiccups, coughs, sputters, loss of power, smooth on acceleration hard or easy, and barely a noticeable skip when held steady at any rpm.  Actually, I only noticed a slight skip when held at a steady 3K rpm, but nothing to complain about very much.
Hopefully, it will continue to run well tomorrow and the vibration will be gone, too.
I'm sure I'll be back here for an update. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 10:34 pm: |
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These are cold blooded beasts. They need a couple of minutes to run out nice.
Run your bike at 3,200rpm or more. They do not like to be lugged. This is where the sweet spot is on my two X1 Lightnings. |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 07:56 pm: |
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OK, here's an update. Ride to work and back on Friday was a success. The bike ran beautifully!
The problem had to have been a leaky exhaust header gasket resulting in incorrect O2 readings, hence the O2 code. Great call, LaFayette. I think you were the first one to mention that way back in this post.
The vibration issue is gone, too!
So, today I was able to spend time cleaning and shining on her rather than having to work on her!
But I just couldn't resist, so I readjusted the drive belt tension to "scary loose," as so many Buellers on here say is correct. Well, actually scary loose seemed a little too loose, so I just made it loose, especially compared to the factory setting that the HD tech did on the 5K mile service.
I hope everything is quiet for a while. Now I want to get my saddlebags reinforced and replace the broken latch.
Anyone know where I can get a right hand saddlebag latch?
Thanks for all the help and advice. I was able to fix the problem on my own w/your help and didn't have to pay HD anymore money!  |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 08:40 pm: |
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Bikerrides:
That is what we are all here for, "BUT" the correct guess's help more ...
The codes just indicate there is a problem in this area and the guessing begins ...
On a car you get several codes,"SO" you get several up front code guess's ...
IT IS ALL JUST "FM" !!!
O2 sensor's usually only go bad at the H-D "STEALERSHIPS" !!!
They can be cleaned,"BUT" never touched !!! |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2012 - 10:24 pm: |
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Well, it's been 2-3 weeks since I last posted anything here, but I guess it's time again.
They're baaa-ack.  Actually, they were back last weekend, but I decided to give it a while longer before I acknowledged those pesky gremlins. It's not as bad as it was, but it is worrisome to be in the middle of nowhere and your scoot begins to act like it might decide to quit a few seconds and then run fine.
This much I do know, my bike doesn't seem to like when the DDFI is working off the sensors in closed loop; it runs perfectly fine when it's in open loop and everything is preset.
I'd like to check the cps for looseness or chaffed wires, but I need some guidance on how to remove the cover; the derby cover is pop-riveted on.
I guess it could still be the ETS, but the temp and voltage were quite linear when I datalogged a 20 mi ride a few weeks back; not sure that's my prob.
Honestly, I'm beginning to wonder if it's the sensors at all or if the fuel map needs some adjustment for the times the bike is running at a steady rpm in closed loop.
Anyone want to give me their best opinion? |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 09:06 pm: |
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OK, I rode to work yesterday and on the way home it began to skip, cough, pop, and burp then I got a CEL. It went away after about 5 min but came back again some 10 min later.
Connected to ECMSpy and read the codes. Code 14, ETS short to voltage supply.
I ordered a new ETS from American Sport Bike and it should be here Tuesday. I would like to check the wiring from the connector to the ECM to make sure I the short is not in the harness. |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 - 08:36 pm: |
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My new ETS isn't here yet even though I paid for 3 day shipping on last Friday.  Supposed to do a 500 mile ride over the next 3 days to the N GA mountains/Western NC. I'm really bummed because I'm reluctant to take it out on such a long ride away from home at this point.
I was able to do some datalogging today to look at what's happening with the engine temp and ETS voltage. Based on what I see on MLV, I definitely have an ETS or ETS wiring harness issue. There are times that the voltage will go to 5V and the engine temp to zero while going down the freeway at 80 mph. The longest this happened was about a minute. What's weird is that it never threw a code.
My question is this. Since I don't have the new ETS to put on the bike, would it be fatal to the bike running if the current ETS craps out completely?
I can remember the bike missing and hesitating at one point when the ETS voltage kept vascilating between 5 and normal. But when it stayed at 5V/0 temp for that minute, the bike ran fine. It's been suggested to disconnect the ETS for diagnostic purposes, which I have done before. The only thing I really noticed is that the cold start enrichment was very, very high, which made starting the bike a bit difficult.
Here is a picture of MLV while I was riding on the freeway. Top graph red and green.
Here is another when the ETS was getting crazy:
Would I be crazy to take it tomorrow and chance getting stranded, or will I just have the possibility of the same misfire, cough, sputter, temporary loss of power, CEL stuff that I've had so far that hasn't really been detrimental to being able to ride? |
Alfau
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 05:41 am: |
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500 mile ride on a Buell.. don't forget to tell US about your adventure? |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 07:05 am: |
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Well, I hope its a good adventure w/no unwanted gremlins.
Any opinion on how the bike would run if the ETS craps out completely? |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 07:37 am: |
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My ETS crapped out on a long trip. It made the bike think it was overheated and shut the engine off. Luckily, it was a long time ago and it was still under warranty.
Suggestion:
follow the sensor wire with your fingers and see if you can feel a break in the insulation.
2000 and up bikes had the sensor inside the center of the rocker box. I think 1999 had them off to the side near the spark plug.
A lot of sensor failures I had were actually sensor WIRE failures  |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 07:49 am: |
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If the sensor goes out completely, will the bike run w/the ETS disconnected? When I was attempting to figure out this issue 6-8 weeks ago, I disconnected it and went out for a diagnostic ride to see if it was the ets that was causing the problem. It didn't run any differently, so I'm thinking I could do that, push come to shove.
But I would like to know for sure before I take off on it. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 06:00 pm: |
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Ride it Stacey. Some adventures are best when you relax and let it happen.
You'll be fine. Bike may occasionally cough at 3200-3600 rpm, but live with it for now.
Enjoy your trip and HAVE FUN! |
Alfau
| | Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2012 - 08:23 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/678030.html?1335754396
You posted this pic.
If it lets you down on the road,I would try this.
Cut the wire here and renew that joint,then insulation tape.
You will have to do that with the new one when it comes. |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 09:51 am: |
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Alan,
Cut it where? |
Alfau
| | Posted on Friday, June 01, 2012 - 08:21 pm: |
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This is your ETS wire with the Non standard joint crimped onto the end.
This joint has the potential to be faulty.
It is not original. Some back-yard butcher has bodged it up with a crimp fitting.
Replace it and the connection to your wiring loom.
Naturally there is no guarantee that this joint is the problem. |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2012 - 11:02 pm: |
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Anybody familiar w/this HID set up on ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9003-HB2-H4-6000K-White-HI D-AC-Slim-Kit-BUELL-S3-S3T-Thunderbolt-97-99-00-01 -02-/300723758212?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories &hash=item4604886484&vxp=mtr |
Knwyman
| | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2012 - 11:25 am: |
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That crimp bullet connector is original, I think. The new ones are are water tight seal but I'm assuming you already know that.
I installed a 55w HID kit from DDM Tuning. It is super bright but I would like a eurospec reflector set up to put the light where I need it & not have it scattered by the DOT lens set up.
I did a couple thousand mile trip from southern new england to western nc a couple of weeks ago with no problems, thankfully. |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 09:27 am: |
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Kris,
How difficult was the installation and where did you mount the ballast? How long did it take to install? Did you have to modify anything? Also, how much did it cost altogether? |
Knwyman
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2012 - 02:13 pm: |
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It was $63 shipped & took about an hour & a half to install. I mounted everything with Velcro on the "ledge" of the fairing where the headlight cutout is. The harness that come with the H4 hi/lo kit is actually set up for a car -two headlights. I just cut the extra plugs & taped off the ends. I also used a watertight fuse holder rather than the one that came with the kit. |
Bikerrides
| | Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 11:38 pm: |
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So, I installed a new ignition switch from asb today and the bike runs really good. Almost all of the stuttering/skipping is gone. Makes me wonder if that was the problem all along. |
Alfau
| | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 08:30 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/676772.html?1335054932
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2012 - 08:56 pm:
-------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------
If you have a leather tag or similar on the key, you might want to ditch it.
My Ignition switch,The lock on my seat also The steering lock as well as The fuel cap lock are all worn out.
I am not game to lock the fuel cap. I can't use the steering lock .
I put a pull tab on the seat latch and replaced the ignition switch.
Sheesh. |
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