| Author | Message | ||
     Gmangbl |
i decided to get new hardware for exhaust header pipes since i had them off to wrap. i got new studs as well. All of them came out fine but one. One broke off. Wondering if anyone has a somewhat simple way to get it out. Otherwise i am thinking of using the old one since there are about 6 threads left on it to go back in. I am thinking it would be enough to do its job. Thoughts anyone? | ||
| Preybird1 |
Dont Do it man. that is a bad idea and can actually break 2 off. Itself and the one holding it on. 1. No easy outs! 2. weld a nut onto what is left and pray it comes out. Or your drilling and grinding it out. 3. Buy better studs than the stock stuff just in case. here is a broken off new factory stud.  | ||
| Gmangbl |
cant weld nut to it because most of the stud cam out. About half of the stud that was in the hole broke off. This is why i would be able to screw the old stud back in about 6 threads | ||
| Winston |
Borrow or buy Jim`s exhaust stud remover tool, I have found the best way to get these nuts undone when old and save snapping an exhaust stud is to get them red hot with an oxy torch. Clive. | ||
| Gmangbl |
i guess jims tool it is. If anyone in the minneapolis area has one i could borrow i would prefer to give you a bottle of booze than to spend $100 on a tool i may never use again. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Chad, bummer... I've always meant to have a Jims on hand but haven't ever got around to picking one up.... I'm close by too! | ||
| Gusm2 |
Thats a twat of a job to drill accuratley, I would definatley use the jig and make sure you get some good quality cobalt drill bits cos IŽll bet that broken bit is harder than a whores heart | ||
| Foximus |
usually the studs are rather soft material. Use a chisel or a very accurate tip die grinder and cut a slot. Spray some Penetrating oil in there and hope it comes out with a screw driver. | ||
| Gmangbl |
Brad, well looks like i will be paying Jim his "you just f'd up tax" so i will have one going forward if you ever need one. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The overpriced Jims tool is worth every penny... | ||
| Gmangbl |
thanks everyone, Jim's tool on the way. | ||
| Gusm2 |
The chances of that coming out with a screwdriver after breaking off are about the same as................. | ||
| Buellistic |
The SECRET of not braking EXHAUST STUDS is PROPER INSTALLATION of the exhaust system .. | ||
| Preybird1 |
 I got sick of them breaking off and just removed the heads and had the heads drilled and tapped for 10mm grade 8 studs and nuts. No problems since!   | ||
| Slaughter |
Every time I have heads off, I change to ARP forged, roller-threaded studs. They are NEVER going to break.  | ||
| Slaughter |
All that being said, if you PROPERLY hang the exhaust and then properly tighten it so that you don't have stresses between the exhaust studs and the mounts themselves, you should be fine with stock studs. Many people tighten the exhaust studs before torquing up the exhaust hangers and then they put a TON of stress into the studs when hanging and tightening the muffler/exhaust | ||
| Buellistic |
Have 111,049.7 miles as of the last ride ... Due to PROPER ASSEMBLY "i" have never broken a OEM EXHAUST STUD !!! "BUT", if "i" was building a RACER the STRONGER EXHAUST STUDS would be a "PLUS" ... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Note to Al Lighton... Stock those studs that Steve posted, and I'll buy a set next time I need something... | ||
| Slaughter |
Back in the day when there used to be a Buell Motorcycle Company, Henry Duga used to sell forged exhaust studs (sigh...) | ||
| X3rs |
What is Jim's Tool. Where do you get it? I have the same issue as shown in the photo of the broken stud - Preybird 1. Also, ARP 'carburetor' studs? Is that correct? (Message edited by x3rs on October 04, 2013) |
