| Author | Message | ||
     Nein_collins |
Hey guys.. I'm having a mess of issues here, I've been throwing parts at my x1 and it still isn't right. At this point, last night I decided to check the resistance of my coil...per the service manual it says to check resistance across the a and c terminals on the primary. and then secondary across the plug terminals. I got those I think...but I don't need to measure across terminal a to plug 1 or term. c to plug 2 (or vice versa)? If mine was correctly done, my resistance values on both sides are 2 times what they are supposed to be, 1.2 on the primary and 12.3-5k on the secondary side. ok, here is the back story...I parked the bike in November due to a broken motor mount. Ran perfect before. During the down time I took the old motor mount off and the engine dangled down in the frame, then I jacked it up and kept it jacked until I just put the broken bolt back in to hold it. At one point my little one sat on the bike and it pushed the motor up some in the frame. I have not checked any wires from that time for cuts or frays. Fast forward to January 15th-ish my buddy and I tow the bike 130 miles away and fix the mount...I ride the bike and it's fine and dandy, then after a stint on the highway the engine cuts out and runs rough like it would when the plugs are fouled. I revved it and it cleared up. The next morning I left to ride the bike the 130 miles home. The first 30 I rode to a cafe bike breakfast meeting and it started running rough and cutting out about 10 minutes into the trip. We get to the meet and I go to pull my plugs for a cleaning and lo-and-behold the plug cap had unscrewed on the front plug. With that, the plug wire was basically arcing the gap from the cap stuck in it and the screw post on the top of the plug. Cleaned that, fixed it, cleaned the plugs, cleaned the rusty film off the back plug terminal and took off for the remaining 100 miles home. 10 minutes in on the highway and it's cutting out/running on one cylinder from fouled plugs, but it was coming and going. I figured the o2 sensor was fouled due to the rich condition caused by the miss-firing front plug. I stop and pick up new plugs and trudge on another 50 miles with it running rough. Stop to gas up and change the plugs thinking this would help. Once again 10 miles on the highway it's back to running bad (and I had a brief check engine light for an unresponsive o2)...but I trudge along to get home and the bike gets me there. So, I replace the o2, replace exhaust port gaskets, put in new retainer rings, new accel plug wires, clean the plugs and test ride...still eventually cutting out and missing. Get home, carb cleaner on intake and bam, front seal is bad. I check my injectors for leaks (ok!) replace the seals and go for a ride...runs like a dream for 30 minutes, get off the highway, still good...then 2 miles from home I get a miss and cut out or 2 but it clears up. I get home and check the plugs, they look ok..I gap them to .40 per the service manual and put them back in...ran good for 30 minutes and cut out when I was close to work. I re-gap plugs to .28-29 and head home. Still the same problems (only worse). AFV value when I got home from initial run was 111 (ran at 107 before parking it) and i've noticed that my injector pulse has stayed at 6.1 (I swear I remember it going down when warmed up) Anyway, tired of throwing parts at it and still not being right. Lastly my ignition switch is not hot while riding either. Sorry for the long winded post, but I want to make sure all the details are known. Thanks guys! | ||
| Dannybuell |
How do you test the fuel pump? | ||
| Buellistic |
First you have to disconnect(quick disconnect) it ... Look at the wiring diagram(you do have a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ???) and connect the battery(jumper wires) to the correct wires and see if it spins up ... No spin up noise, no workie ... | ||
| Oldog |
Neil the fowled plugs are a symptom of a fuel system issue, why test the coil? 1 do you have ECM syp? 2. reset afv and tps 3. when cold check IAT reading against ambient air temp 4. when cold check the ET reading agaist the air temp 5. while running watch the o2 sensor output to see if its ok, 6. check tps readings to see if they are consistent check cold and hot A partial list of possible problems 1. bad intake air sensor 2. bad cylinder head temp sensor 3. hung injector 4. exhaust air leak skewing the readings causing over rich ( check REAR o2 bung and Ex gasket as well as joint at muffler 5. excessive fuel pressure possible reason for odd coil reading at 2x normal you are reading through both primaries.. the coils have a common connection on both sides Hi and low volts, | ||
| Oldog |
Further, the temps senders can go bad by drifting, usually dead shorts or opens show up as codes but the senders and O2 can drift or fowl not dead short and not code.. ECM INPUTS Throttle Position Intake Air Temp Cylinder head temp Engine position O2 sensor Bank Angle OUT PUTS front coil rear coil front injector rear injector Fuel Pump Chk Engine LT the ecm monitors input and output circuit conditions for some of its codes ( open short etc | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My vote is for engine temp sensor. Brain thinks the engine is still cold and dumps a pile of gas in there. Check the wiring leading to the sensor. They can chafe through to ground it out. | ||
| Vecchio_lupo |
+1 on the temp sensor. MY 99 S3 gave me fits that sounded alot like your issues, it was the temp sensor shorting and the ECM thought it was cold instead of operating temp. Good Luck | ||
| Two_seasons |
EngineTemperatureSensor American Sport Bike sells them... | ||
| Nein_collins |
Will do guys..thanks..I've often wondered about that..hence the injector pulse reading never going down... Good thing I do have ECMSpy..i'd really be in the dark then... Gray | ||
| Firemanjim |
But your AFV was high--at 111, so it is sensing a lean condition in the learned fuel area---a very small area on an X-1--- and adding 11% more fuel to the entire map causing it to run rich elsewhere fouling the plugs. Usually temp sensor when it goes it shows cold and adds fuel and the AFV would be low. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Fireman, that's what I was thinking. Last night I hooker 'er up to the 'puter and took a look in ecmspy. Engine temp and ambient (intake temp) were the exact same. What I did notice was that cold start enrichment was at the full 180%. Anyway, I'll crank it tonight, let it warm up and look into it. I really do not wish to spend 80 dollars on a temp sensor only for it to not change anything. I've already spent a bit of cash throwing stuff at it and still only minor progress. Thanks so far guys! Gray | ||
| Nein_collins |
oh yeah, also to note - mods to the bike CF race intake for carb'd model - intake temp sensor ziptied(lol) into the breather hole. Supertrapp exhaust with no disks race ecu aftermarket breather set-up accel 8mm plug wires ngk plugs in heat range 8 (9 never worked well for mine) Thanks, Gray | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you have ECM spy, you can see what the temp is reading before the engine is started up. It should be close to room temperature (or garage temperature, outside your house temperature whatever you know what I mean!) | ||
| Oldog |
I really do not wish to spend 80 dollars on a temp sensor only for it to not change anything. you can eliminate that.. check ex gaskets at head and pipe joint also o2 input to ecm unit shows 111% enrichment... | ||
| Nein_collins |
I've never been so happy for my bike to throw a cel code.... code #14 ets short to supply voltage.... So I guess this means the ets is the culprit then? I say this because at that moment ecmspy noted engine temp at 111C and yet the injector pulse rate was still 6.xx ms, which by that point, it should be in the 4.xx range? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Clear the code and see if it comes back. | ||
| Oldog |
If the ets is in error due to wiring issue then its fixable, I cant advise as to pulse width BUT if any input to the ecm is in error, you will have problems, As FMJ outlined If the ETS skews and this happens in the learning area of the maps then more fuel is added over all, this is consistant with your problem, I have had the IAT connector go bad, the ets connector is located over the engine between the cylinders near the top center tie bar anchor( on the engine end ) ... its a single bullet with a weather proof cover, the ets is in the chimney of the rear head. | ||
| Oldog |
Im with FMJ reset and see if it comes back.. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Hey guys, Replaced the ETS and that was the issue...runs like a champ now. I managed to get it hooked up to ecm spy to see the ets go from operating temp to -10c in the matter of a minute...that pretty much sold me on the ets idea. Had a fellow Bueller I met at the international motorcycle show (think he's up here) lend me the socket to change it out. SO HAPPY NOW Thanks for all the help! Gray |
