| Author | Message | ||
     Tony302 |
ok its a 98 m2. i finally had time to look at the bike i bought this as a project. the only way the bike stay idling at 950rpms is with the choke all the way out but as soon as you let go of the choke it pushes the choke back in on its own and shuts the engine off. i have a carb rebuild kit but do you think is best just to buy a used one?? cause the way this bike was maintained i'm afraid that carb might be all messed up inside, the rear brakes on this bike do not work you press on the pedal does not return the rear brake gets stuck i'm thinking master cylinder and lines and caliper it has fluid but that fluid does not go no where. | ||
| Buellistic |
CARBURETOR Class 101, just PM me if you want a copy ... Try bleeding the rear brake ... | ||
| M2marc |
clean the jets and needle. make sure that the idle adjust is up enough | ||
| Jim2 |
For the choke cable to work correct there needs to be a little friction. The small outside knob can be finger tightened or loosened to adjust the friction. You want just enough friction to keep the choke out when starting. As it warms up it will pull the choke in slowly if adjusted right. The service manual warns not to lube up the choke cable as you would a throttle or clutch cable. The carb is not hard to service. American Sport Bike has a rear brake rebuild kit and carb rebuild kits, and intake manifold seal kits. I had to all on my bike when I got it. For about $80 total you could do all this at once and have your bike running great. The intake seals need to be replace about every two years anyway. +1 on Buellistics carb 101 class. I realized a huge improvement after following the advice I got from Buellistic and others here. | ||
| Tony302 |
ok cool will do thank buellistic i just got all your messages reviewing them tonight to do sometime this week..will look up that brake rebuild kit as i want this bike to ride like new again before i take it on the road thanks for the help.. | ||
| Hogluvr |
I agree with Jim2, make sure you replace the intake seals. I had two Buells do the same thing, they wouldn't run unless the choke was pulled out. When the intake seals leak they suck in additional air, causing the bike to run too lean to idle. When you pull the choke out it richens the mixture enough for the bike to run. Get the blue James brand intake seals for a Sportster around the same year, can't remember the part # but it begins with an "X", indicating it's not a direct OEM replacement. They will cure you from having to replace them every couple of years. And yes, definitely get the brakes fixed before riding it!! Good luck! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Tony, I did some upgrades to my rear brakes this last year, here's the write up: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/646904.html It is possible that you just have a bunged up bleeder valve screw, if you haven't tried pushing fluid through with it removed maybe you will want to get a replacement screw, swap it and then try bleeding the system again? I never did hear back from Purpony on the length of the XB rear brake line... maybe 'cause I ignored his post originally... maybe I should email him to get some clarification on that. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'm sure this was all in Buellistic's message to you...but a couple things on adjusting the choke cable: first - NEVER use a tool. Do it finger-tight or you can (and will) break the plastic. second - have you gotten it to idle without the choke engaged yet? What is the idle RPM? It sounds to me like you need to speed up the idle with the screw on top of the carb. 950 on choke is low. Are you sure it's firing on both cylinders? Before you get into taking stuff apart and rebuilding, always try the adjustments. I changed all my older Buells over to the late-tuber idle speed adjust cable/knob, that way I can adjust the idle on the fly and without taking the tank off. It's a $15 part and well worth the money. Have a dealer look up "idle adjust cable" for an '01 or '02 M2; it'll fit any carb'd buell. | ||
| Tony302 |
Littlebuggles thnks you for that as soon as im done with the carb and get the bike runing that next..Ratbuell i forgot to say that this bike was siting for over a year with just the elbow atached to the exhaust manifold no muffler,i can have her run as long as i engaged the throtle just a litle bit but as soon as i let go of it shuts off oh and she does have her carb farts right before she shuts off too. with the choke engaged she idles but starts to smoke real bad. buellistic offer his (services)  i ma tear the carb and clean it and probably wait for him to come back to fl..this is my first bike and still learning to see how it works order the repair manual just anxious to see her run | ||
| Ratbuell |
What flavor smoke? Gray (too rich / fuel)? Or blue/white (oil)? Until you get it running consistently, I wouldn't sweat oil smoke. Chances are if it sat for a long time, your valve seals leaked a little oil into the cylinders and it needs time to burn off. If you're running it with no muffler, its no surprise that the carb is acting up. I strongly doubt it was properly jetted for basically no exhaust. | ||
| Tony302 |
Its gray smoke and yes no muffler just the elbow. I have no idea what the previous owner was thinking i know he had that bad gas on it while it was siting at his garage.. i well try to tear the Carb down on Tuesday since today I had to mess with the dryer and a mouse who snuck in thru the dryer exhaust from outside the house.(that was fun )... |
