| Author | Message | ||
     Xl1200r |
Looking for input - When I bought my bike about 2 years ago, the front iso was toast and the left side front motor mount bolt going into the head was snapped off. The bolt was extracted and replaced and the iso replaced with the -79D part (looks just like the new iso except we bored it to take the larger bolt). The iso still looks good to me - limited view, but I can't see any tears anywhere. However, the left side bolt snapped off again, and with the iso looking okay I'm not really sure why that happened. Any ideas? So much for going riding tomorrow... figures I just wrested a new rear tire on the thing today. | ||
| Xl1200r |
and of course American Sport Bike 's website is down so I can't even order anything. | ||
| Buellistic |
XL1200R: You have mail !!! | ||
| Xl1200r |
Thanks LaFayette. I got the -79D part number from you before and we bored it for the bigger bolt. The "updated" kit looks like the same part, just comes with a smaller bolt. I've ordered it from American Sport Bike (site is back up), but I haven't decided if I'm gong to use the smaller or bore the iso for the stock one. I really don't think the iso bad. Which has me worried because I don't know why the bolt would have snapped otherwise. Everything is on its way from Al... let's hope the easy out goes well... Seems these bolts should last more than 10kmi - I don't do much 2-up (and when I do she only weighs 105lbs), no wheelies... I'm not hard on the thing... | ||
| Fast1075 |
The mating surfaces (head and bracket) must be completely parallel. If either is out of whack, it puts a bending load on the bolts, which leads to bolt failure. If the surfaces look good, you can check for parallel with dye or rubbing compound. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Has anyone tried making a shoulder bolt that does not have to cut rubber off of the isolator, yet does not have play by the bolt head? Start with the larger bolt and chuck it in a lathe to reduce the threaded diameter and cut new threads. Seems like a better solution than making a sleeve. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Fast - any more info on how to go about that? They mate up nice by eye, but obviously that's not exacting enough. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Parts are in, digging into it, some questions... My FSM shows an iso with a D-washer on top. The updated iso kit from American Sport Bike shows to not install the D washer, and to add a "snubber" on the bottom side (looks just like a big fender washer to me). I'm not sure of the purpose of this - can anyone explain it? Now, the updated iso, to my eye, looks exactly like the -79D iso that some, including myself, have installed before this update kit came out. I've found that this -79D iso has in fact gone bad on my bike (found 2 tears on the top side after taking the tank off), so I feel better about the bolt being broken with a bad iso. My question is, with this iso being modified (bored to take the larger stock bolt) and using the D washer on top and no snubber on the bottom... could those be contributing factors to it's premature demise? | ||
| Gowindward |
The snubber washer is used to prevent over travel in an upward direction. My guess is the tears on the top are from over travel in an upward direction. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Leave it to me to completely f*** something up. Drill went in crooked for the easy out. The easy out Al sent me wouldn't get it, and another I had didn't do the trick either. The GOOD news is that there's enough thread that I think I can get a nut on there and weld it... just need to rent a welder. The BAD news is the drill was crooked enough that I can see where the bolt ends and the aluminum from the head begins... not really sure how to handle that just yet. ANy ideas? Can't decide if the head should come off to get filled in and retapped, but then who knows if the alignment will be correct. Maybe just fill it with JB weld? Grasping at straws, here. | ||
| 46champ |
By your description it sounds like you need to remove the head take it to a machine shop to have the bolt extracted. Either have the hole filled by welding and redrilled or install a helicoil. Then have them plane the head and bracket true to each other. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Alright - threads look better than I was expecting... still not sure what I'm going to do about that, but I've got time to think it over because... My front mount is bent. The two surfaces are not level with each other. You can see it if you look hard enough just holding it up, but it becomes very obvious when you try to put it up to the head. The mount itself actually touches the top of the rocker box. What's my course of action? Can this one be saved? Or get a new one? I don't see any on the BadWeB and only one on eBay for $100, which seems kind of steep to me... | ||
| Oldog |
send the head to pammy for repair, get a new billet mount reassemble... | ||
| Xl1200r |
Looks like that will be the course of action. Looks like about 1/6 of the first 5 rows of threads are gone - a little more than I'm comfortable with. Of course this means my $70 in parts to replace the iso and bolts will be accompanied by a $100 top end gasket kit, a $230 billet mount and whatever the machine shop gets to repair the head. Awesome. | ||
| Blks1l |
Without seeing the damage to the head, it might be something that could still be run the way it is. | ||
| Xl1200r |
I'll post a photo up tonight and look for input. To be honest, if this were any other bolt, I'd run it as is, but with all the issues surrounding this particular bolt I'm not so sure... I count ~13 rows of threads on the bolt that go into the head. Of those, the first 5 rows (closest to the bracket) are each missing ~1/6 of the thread. I actually *think* this should be plenty considering they only get torqued to 70 lbs (or was it 60?), but with the vibration and all... I did some quick math and it looks like I've only reduced the surface area by about 6.5%. Oh, and for those keeping score... 1) The "updated" iso is in fact the exact same part as the -79D iso (casting numbers in the rubber match). 2) The rubber on my old iso wasn't torn, it was just folded a bit when the weight of the engine was on it. However, the shop that did the work put the stock D washer on the top of it, and the cupped shape of the washer actually casued the top integral washer in the iso to be domed. Otherwise it looked fine, nothing torn or loose. (Message edited by xl1200r on November 30, 2011) | ||
| Xl1200r |
Here's the pics of the bad threads. What's the consensus? Just jam a billet mount on there as it is or have the threads repaired?   | ||
| Oldog |
under no circumstances would I run that. 1. the threads are under some serious stress and need to be pristeem 2. the mounting surface MUST be FLAT and the 2 faces MUST be in the same plane or you get to do it over..... 3. as an alternative you may find one used head (front) on e-bay its your money your safety and your call I make the statemets from experience .. Al may be able to get the harder drag specialty front mount, also consider doing the rear isos ... | ||
| Blks1l |
Seeing that picture it does look pretty rough. As mentioned above now would be the time to repair it, or run it as is it may be fine or break down the road later on, but if it does break it could make the head "BER" beyond economical repair. If it were mine, I would run it. | ||
| Phelan |
I had a head repaired there for $75 a few years back. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Like Oldog said. send it here>>>> Cycle Rama. | ||
| Xl1200r |
I'm sure cyclerama does great work, but I can't justify shipping a head all the way down the easy coast and back to just fix these threads - plenty of machine shops around here. I'll get the head pulled tomorrow. I checked ebay for front heads and didn't find anything economically viable. I'd love to just go for an XB head swap since I need to buy the billet mount anyways, but that would mean pistons as well and I'm just not interested in that much work on this bike... save that kind of upgrade for the X1 I want to build. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Check UPS Ground and USPS Priority Mail prices. For the cost of shipping, I would spend that amount to ship it to Cyclerama just for the peace of mind that it would be done right by people who have done many before. Besides, that way you don't even have to spend the time and money to take it to the local machine shop and then go back to pick it up. | ||
| Bigslug |
Did you see the S2 front mount in the classifieds? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 660677.html?1322928063 Cheaper than a billet mount and IMHO just as good. Now that I think about it, doesn't the S3 need the extra tie point on the mount? Mike (Message edited by bigslug on December 04, 2011) | ||
| Xl1200r |
But I'd still need to take it the post office or UPS store... Fixing these threads isn't rocket science, I'm sure I won't have an issue. Did you see the S2 front mount in the classifieds? Didn't the S2s use two different sized bolts for the front head mounts (smaller on the cam side)? Will that mount actually fit? It does look like it should be stiffer than what came on mine... Head is off, all went according to plan, so at least there weren't any issues there. The cylinder bore looks pretty good, can still cross-hatched hone pattern in it. There's the expected carbon and such, but nothing out of the ordinary. (Message edited by xl1200r on December 04, 2011) | ||
| Xl1200r |
I also need to know what I'll need for gaskets. I know I'll need intake, exhaust and head and rocker box gaskets, but I wasn't sure if the rubber gaskets for the upper valve cover or the rubber pieces in the throttle body (I want to take it apart and clean it, looks pretty grungy) were reusable. | ||
| Guell |
If they can deck and true a head im sure they can retap those threads. | ||
| Xl1200r |
That S2 mount won't work, nowhere to mount the tie bar. | ||
| Xl1200r |
If they can deck and true a head im sure they can retap those threads. I'm taking it to an engine rebuild shop - I don't know how much motorcycle work they do, but it's not like this will be the first aluminum head they've seen. | ||
| Guell |
i meant any head in general. Especially if they have a machine shop. |
