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Archive through October 31, 2011Preybird130 10-31-11  11:04 am
         

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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow. 18 studs in how many years/miles? I like the 10mm stud idea; that's the two-diameter one a VW uses to hold the rocker arm assembly on the high performance head. I happen to have a few in my toolbox. You didn't add helicoil inserts, too, did you?
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It happened with the vance and hines ssr2 pipe and the factory pipe and also the heavy supertrap pipe. All broke within 2 years of each other. And after the second time i had to grind and grind to get the busted stud out i was fed up. So i bought a D&D and had the studs upsized. The best thing about a D&D system is you can remove any part of the exhaust without removing any other parts of the bike or exhaust system.
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No helicoil used. drilled and tapped by my friends race shop Lindsay machine racing. They barely fit and there is just enough room to get a socket on the nuts. It was the best idea i had yet about "my" problem. I also used those locking o-loc nuts where the top of the nut is pressed in a tiny bit making them oval and a little harder to get on off. So far it has been great not having to worry about them anymore.
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Fast1075
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those are called "prevailing torque" nuts if anybody goes to the store to ask for some. : )
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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 02:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Barely fits? That's a deal-breaker on doing it while the original threads are available. Someone must make a superior strength stud. Perhaps a super-strength bolt with a drilled head safety wired in place is the ticket. You do have the weight of the muffler well supported by the good front mount kit, I hope? It must be free to move with the engine; if your muffler is rigid with respect to the frame you are doomed to broken studs forever.
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Guell
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

4 years with 4 different exhausts on my old m2, with the original front mount with worn out bushing, original studs in the head and no broken studs. 29k miles too.

If you break 18 then somethings wrong with your bike
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We originally thought it was the crank assembly being out of balance causing to much shaking causing the failures. That was why all the different exhaust systems. There was even some speculation that the factory header was bent or misshaped. But the bigger studs worked. All of the isolators were gone through and checked and found to in good shape. I allready had had the front y hanger exhaust bracket installed but i was still having issues.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, October 31, 2011 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your issue was more likely in the muffler mounting than the header studs themselves unless, like me, you got a header with sloppy welds from the factory which simply did not line up with the mounting bolts...glad to hear you got it fixed. Had you tried supporting the muffler with a floor jack, removing the main bolt from the front isolator, and moving the engine up and down to see if the muffler moves freely with it?
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