| Author | Message | ||
     2734 |
I got my M2 a year or so ago and I had a prob with the engine. It seems my bike had the wrong filter on it and I ended up with a burned crank pin and rod bearing damage. My question is can I repair this myself or should this be dealt with by a Pro? I have never seen the inside of one of these engines. I have overhauled many auto transmissions and built a few Mopar motors and have worked in undercar shops most of my life so I am mechanically able. I would have taken it in to a shop by now but funds have been limited because of work slowing down and I got a divorce. I'm sick of seeing My Buell sitting around and in the way so I'm seeking a little advice... | ||
| Chauly |
Plan on $2K worth of parts. Once you get in there, there will be "other stuff", plus the rings, seals, gaskets, bearings (not on the crank). Probably the only thing you won't have to do much with are the heads. It's not that scary to rebuild (I've done it twice!), but be prepared to be underwhelmed by the technology. Oh, and get a professional to build the crank assembly, since vee-blocks, dial indicators, and big brass mallets are not your usual tools, most likely! It will take about two hours to get the engine out, and about 1/2 hour to completely disassemble it and cry. | ||
| 2734 |
This was my plan. The Motor has been built before and I was thinking I could just replace the crank/rods assy and reuse my upper end or would I run into a "balance" issue? (Message edited by 273-4 on September 02, 2011) | ||
| Chauly |
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| Chauly |
I didn't have any balance issues;it shakes as much as it used to, no more, no less... | ||
| Reepicheep |
What kind of "wrong filter" caused a crank failure? The stock filter is on the smaller side, most of the "wrong filters" are bigger (like the FL1A). Though they can spin off... on river road... on a friday afternoon... and pour oil everywhere.... DAMHIK.  | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
I agree with Reep, I dont understand what you mean by a wrong filter causing this. As for the damage - I just had this recently - expect a lot of money invested. My bearing shattered, screwing up the pin, the rod, sending metal all over the place, so the cylinders had to be bored out etc etc pistons rods all that inside stuff gaskets hardware it adds up quick | ||
| 2734 |
Reepi-It was a Purolator filter and the man that looked at my bike felt that was the problem. I did compare it to an new HD filter and there was a difference in the return hole sizes and number of holes. I cut the filter apart and there was a lot of metal in it. Chualy- thanks for the pics Hybrid- I borescoped the cyls and all looks good.The bike still runs and has no lack of power but reallly noisey ! (Message edited by 273-4 on September 02, 2011) | ||
| Buellistic |
That is why "i" run Wal-Mart OIL FILTERS ... Have 110,772.1 miles as of the last ride ... | ||
| 2734 |
Buellistic- the PO had the bike serviced before I picked it up from him. I had no idea about the filter. I tried to get him to go back on the shop that serviced it but he was unwilling to do so. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I ran purolator filters on both my M2 and XB9SX. Both pushing 30k miles when I sold them, both running perfectly. The Buell oil pumps are positive displacement, so I think they pump or explode trying. I'm not an engine expert though, so maybe something less obvious is happening... | ||
| Reepicheep |
What does your oil pump pinion gear look like? That would be my first suspect... and it would likely have taken you cams with it. | ||
| 2734 |
I'm not sure on the gear but the oil press light stays off while it running and the noise seems to be coming from the crank case area. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Click my name to the left and look at my profile picture... If you drop your oil pump, you can look up in the cam cover and see that gear. It wears on some motors because of tolerance stack, and when the teeth get too thin, it just breaks, and then things go badly from there. It would take 20 minutes to drop the pump and inspect. Though if you know you are rebuilding anyway, you could just pull the cam cover. Though if that was gone, you are right, I would suspect the oil light would go on... unless you just lost a tooth and it lunched a cam. | ||
| 2734 |
OK I will try and take a peek at it this weekend. Thanx | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
also keep in mind - if there was metal in the oil it'll be all over the place - take your oil tank off and flush it well. possibly even replace the oil lines just to be sure. But im the type that doesnt want to risk further damage in the future from the metal floating around good luck on it all, keep us updated! | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO you should stick a magnet in the oil tank and move it around on the bottom ... It it comes out with a lot of metal on it "i" check the cam cavity area, then the rods ... | ||
| Snowbees |
the previous owner of my X1 had problems, rebuilt the motor (tosser)and didnt clean oilways or the tank, result was bits of metal trapped in the big end which was toast in no time. The x1 has a pressed crank, had the rods honed, new bearings and a new crank pin made and fitted by professionals. | ||
| Schmidt452 |
I have run Bosch oil filters for the 23K of my 99X1 27ks life with no issues. | ||
| 46champ |
After a catastrophic engine failure it would seem to me that a stroker kit would be called for. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
"After a catastrophic engine failure it would seem to me that a stroker kit would be called for." I agree to a point And when mine went it was like "well I can reuse the cylinders, they have slight scoring at the base, but they'll still work alright........BUT Im already replacing the rods and the motor is apart so I guess I better..." I didnt go stroker, kept things fairly stock (compression, only bored what had to be bored to make up for the scoring on the walls), but it was a thought. Price was a big part of it But yeah, youre in there, do some upgrades MORE POWERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR | ||
| 2734 |
Well guys its already got Axtell 1250 kit, 536 cams, stage I heads,race ECM,V and H pipe and a Mikuni.... Thats why I bought it ! LoL I've been looking at some vids on youtube and a few other concerns come to mind(fixing runout in the bearings in the sides of the cases and such) and I may just let someone who knows what to look for while it's apart fix it instead of me stumbling around in there makin a this mess a bigger mess. I'm just tied up $ wise right now and I want to ride. | ||
| Edv |
After looking at the photo above of the crank pin I have to say most of this was caused by revving the engine when cold and not waiting for the engine/oil to warm up. We have repaired several of these over the years and usually it is the front or center bearing that fails. Nothing to do with your oil filter by the way Ed | ||
| Buellistic |
Edv: YOU HAVE JUST STATED WHY BUELL ENGINES DO NOT LAST !!! The other is REV"ing the engine over 6800 RPM's ... | ||
| 2734 |
This is my first Buell and I'm a convert from IL4s and I will admit that I found the rev limiter ALOT when I first started to ride it. It didnt take me long to realize that you didnt need to snap the clutch to get the front wheel up. So what's the fix if that's the prob? Is there any oiling upgrades I need to do while I'm in there? (Message edited by 273-4 on September 06, 2011) |
