| Author | Message | ||
     Shaner |
Okay, I need the help of a true Buell guru to tell me why my bike is cranking extremely slow. Long story starts now....Removed engine and took to a reputable (or so I thought) dealer to rebuild bottom end (connecting rod bearing shot). Re-installed engine and got it running and noticed an unusual noise from the left side bottom. (cranked hard and strong at that time even after 30-40 miles) Trailered the bike back to dealer and they found front engine sprocket loose (not completely torqued) and also said my battery was bad and bike wouldn't start. Battery was only two weeks old, tested good and even tried a new battery. Suspected starter and changed but bike still cranks extremely slow. What am I missing? Could they have also left out some spacer which after properly torquing the sprocket would bind the engine? I need help!!! | ||
| Chauly |
My $.02 would be to check the obvious: grounding, electrical connections, etc. If possible, check the current draw (or at least the voltage drop at the battery when cranking. Very high drop would indicate either very high current draw or a dead cell in the battery. The next is to put it in 5th gear and push the bike.(Take the plugs out) it should spin over relatively easy. If it skids the rear tire, then it is tight to turn, and further mechanical investigation is in order. Pull the primary cover off and see if something is rubbing. Try turning the engine nut with a wrench; it should be easy. As far as I know, there are no spacers as you describe to bind the engine. If you're trying to start it with the clutch pulled in, at least you're eliminating something in the transmission... | ||
| Shaner |
Here is the latest I've found. Loosening the sprocket nut will allow the engine to turn turnover at normal speed. When I torque the sprocket nut to 120 ft-lbs (torque spec is 200 ft-lbs), bike cranks slow as if battery is bad. Okay, I've dug into the manual. There is a spacer between the inner and outer sprocket bearings (for which there are 9 different p/n's of varying thicknesses). A flywheel end play check tells you what thickness to use (.001-.005 end play). Yeah, i know....I'm going to have to take the bike back to the dealer and tell them they put the wrong spacer (or left it out) in during the rebuild.  |
