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92firebird
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2011 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello again, I have the following mods:
1. forcewinder air intake
2. d&d exhaust
3. 48/200 jets with the shimmed needle
and I was wondering what needle I could get to get some midrange power back? I heard somewhere on here that an 88 sportster needle would do the trick but im not sure.
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2011 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The OEM M2 needle is the better needle ...

Raise the needle 0.050 of an inch and then check your mid-rainge ...

KEIHIN CARBURETOR Class 101, just PM me for your copy ...
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92firebird
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2011 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i did shim the needle with the #4 washer as i was told...is that .05'ths of an inch/
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2011 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you removed the ACCELERATOR PUMP ???

Have you radious'ed the slide ???

Idle mixture screw 2 1/2 turns out from seat ...

Are your intake manifold seals and intake manifold to carburetor seal good ???

What it looks like when done, just PM me for pictures ...

IF YOUR ENGINE TIMING IS NOT CORRECT YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME TRYING TO TUNE THE CARBURETOR ...
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92firebird
Posted on Friday, July 29, 2011 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i havent removed the accelerator pump, nor radious'd the slide, i did the air screw, and the seals are good. i dont know about engine timing however...
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2011 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2000 m2 responded nicely to the stock needle, stock main, and just replacing the low speed jet and fixing the air screw.

I avoid drilling, radiusing, and removing stuff in a carb.
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Guell
Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2011 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a 48/200 combo might be too rich for the bike
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92firebird
Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reep, do you have the exact modifications like my bike? I want more power but I dont want to run my bike to lean.
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, January 06, 2012 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With the IGN. TIMING set correctly you can run a #45 low speed jet and a #200 high speed jet ...

Keep the OEM needle as it is the best needle ...

CARBURETOR Class 101, just PM me for a copy ...
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Jayvee
Posted on Friday, January 06, 2012 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You didn't say how you decided on these jets. That would be very useful info.
Such as you do a test at each increment? Like 45, 46, 48, with 200, 195, 190, 185? That's like 16 different runs.
Then more when you get close, with and without the shim.
That's why some feedback device is useful, so you know which way to go. Dyno Air/Fuel ratio would tell, for example, or if that's impractical, there are some "twistgrip tests" for each 'range'. I've seen them posted here and there on the internet.
I wound up 'un-shimming' the needle, after a couple Dyno runs at JT&S, and as well as reducing both the Low and the Main.
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, January 06, 2012 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Myself, "i" like to test & tune in the real world riding down the road with a FUEL/AIR GAUGE on my exhaust header ...

The first thing "i" do is make sure my engine timing is correct because anything you do with out it being correct is just a plain waste of time !!!
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92firebird
Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2012 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how can I check the engine timing? and I figured out the size of the jets from researching on this website. : D
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92firebird
Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2012 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

on a side note, I want a Mikuni HSR 42mm carb but I saw someone say that the 45mm is better? I have researched alot and figure that a Mikuni is good enough for me for the type of riding I do.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At my elevation (45-4700 ft) my bike ran pretty good with the Forcewinder and a V&H and a 200/45 combo, with the air fuel screw out roughly 2.5 turns.

Remember that midrange can also be due to lack of back-pressure from your pipe.

I gained a ton of midrange back, when I ditched the V&H in favor of a Supertrapp. Mods are in my profile.

Maybe the 48 is too rich? I'm not sure how much our elevation difference will affect that. It would be for me, my pipe has not re-blued since the polish after I put in the 45 and I don't have the surging/stumbling I had prior to the slow jet change.
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92firebird
Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well i was on buellforums.com and i was told to do that by members on that site.
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Jayvee
Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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92firebird
Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I dont believe I had knowledge of this site otherwise I would be here as I currently am. I am getting the Mikuni HSR 42 and was wondering if I needed to get jets for that or will it run fine on stock jets?
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd suggest the Mikuni might run stock, but anybody replacing an entire carburetor should not be alarmed at the prospect of tuning the jetting.
One good thing about Mikuni is how much easer they are to change the jets than CV. Also easier availability of different slides, jet needles, needle jets, etc. Even a couple of online tuning guides, one by Joe Minton.
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92firebird
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting, Thanks!
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