| Author | Message | ||
     Mmesa005 |
Hello All, I am into my 2nd week of ownership and purchased and received a ECMSpy Cable and Software. I read in the archives that there are custom ECM Maps that can be loaded into a stock ECM to greatly improve overall smoothness and performance. This is the same as purchasing a Race ECM? The disk that came with the cable did come with custom maps but before changing anything I wanted to solicit advice from the group as to which map(s) have been proven to work best or should I say other X1 owners are using successfully? I have a stock 2002 X1. I do have a K&N filter on order, other than that stock exhaust, stock intake box. Thanks! | ||
| Kalali |
Stock maps work just fine on a stock bike. | ||
| Mmesa005 |
Maybe it's just me being new to the breed but there is a bit of roughness to the bike at idle. I did the following so far: 1. Remove air box and clean throttle body 2. Reset TPS 3. Set AFV to 100% 4. General inspection of bike for wire chafing, loose bolts, nuts, etc. Thanks! | ||
| Kdstang |
Bit of roughness at idle? My X1 doesn't get anywhere near smooth until 3000+ rpm. I'm lucky it doesn't just walk down the street at idle. | ||
| Britchri10 |
Does it sound "lumpy" & 'like a box of rocks" at idle? Mine does too & I have ECM Spied mine, replaced ignition, wires, plugs, oil/fuel filters, stator & rotor, oxygen sensor etc'. The lack of smoothness at & just off idle is fairly normal on the X1. | ||
| Nwrider |
My X1 runs pretty damn decent and is relatively stock for now. I get nervous warming it up on level ground. Looks like it wants to jump off the side stand. I prefer the front wheel up hill at least a little. Pretty sure its just the nature of the beast  | ||
| 01x1buell |
mine is a little jumpy but when it warms up it runs pretty drn smooth compared to others i have seen.. | ||
| 01x1buell |
since you have reset your afv what is it now that have rode it.. you might have to adjust your fuel values if it is off. | ||
| Preybird1 |
You may still want to check your front motor mount and both rear isolators. That is the main thing to remember about this bike is the uni-planer type engine mounting system. | ||
| 01x1buell |
yes preybird is right i thought mine where bad but it turns out it was just running like crap.. then i did a data log and found some minor issues now like i said runs like a champ all day long 10p hrs straight ( almost except for fuel and food breaks) | ||
| Mmesa005 |
First, a big thank you for all the replies! Being new to the breed I was starting to feel I purchased a bad bike. After further investigation I did find that the spark plug terminals were loose on both plugs. I removed the plugs, tightened the terminals, checked the gaps, .035, put some anti-seize on the threads and reinstalled them. Immediate improvement. However, the bike does not get really smooth until close to 3000 RPMs. Most notable is when decelerating I feel the bike start to get a bit rough. I have also noticed that the bike likes to stay in 2nd and 3rd gear longer than say my Honda VF750C. In other words, I need to be over 40 mph to go to 4th gear and over 55 to go to 5th gear, anything less and the bike feels as if it is in the wrong gear? I do have new plugs, wires, fuel filter, isolators, Engine Temperature Sensor, 02 Sensor - (can you tell I want the bike to run well?) all on order. Today I did an engine oil and filter change - Mobile 1 V Twin Synthetic 20W-50 and I changed the gear oil to Mobile LS1 75W-90 Synthetic as well as adjust the clutch. I did check the Primary Chain and it seems to be borderline tight? The bike was hot when I checked it so I need to recheck it when it's cold to make a proper assessment. After the oil changes some improvement noted but not huge as the previous owner was already running Royal Purple Synthetic in the engine and gearbox. What is helping me is the type of moral support and information each of you has provided - how your bikes run, what is normal for the X1 and what to look for when troubleshooting problems. I wish I could find an X1 near me to get a feel for another bike or an experience Buell mechanic to provide a hands on opinion. (I am in Northern California, east of Sacramento). When I start the bike I vibrates as Britchri10 describes above. Preybird1 - I am planning to replace the isolators - hoping to find a "How to" for that procedure. 01x1buell - if you would expand on the issues you found and what you did about them that would be appreciated. How would I know if my fuel values are off and how would I adjust them? Again, I really appreciated all the help and recommendations! | ||
| Mmesa005 |
Forgot to all - I am looking for a copy of the 2002 X1 Owners Manual. Preferably soft copy but I would be happy to purchase a hard copy as well. | ||
| Nwrider |
I have one for you Mmesa005. PM me and I will email it to you when I return home this eve. | ||
| Oldog |
FRONT ISO http://http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messa ges/3842/249086.html?1268068900 FORK REBUILD http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/249047.html?1300846423 (Message edited by oldog on June 28, 2011) | ||
| Mmesa005 |
Oldog, Your a mind reader! I have the Forks on my "To Do List". Any link / advise to the procedure for replacing the Rear Isolators would be greatly appreciated? Steven | ||
| Mmesa005 |
Just thought I would provide an update as to how my bike is doing after receiving several replacement parts that had been on order for a few weeks. 1. I changed the Intake Seals with the "Blue Type" seals - don't know if they are better but they were recommended when reading several posts about changing these seals. The seals that I replaced showed some wear on the inside lip of the seals but not the outside. I don't think they were leaking but I did not test them. I just replaced them based on several recommendations. 2. I changed the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (latest version with new Delphi connector and insulator to protect the wire that is routed through the cylinder head) 3. Changed the fuel filter with a new unit and I noticed that the hose from the fuel filter to the injectors is fire sleeved, however, the hose from the fuel tank into the fuel filter is not. Since I changed the filter I went ahead and replaced the fuel lines and fire sleeved the line from the tank to the filter as that line runs along side the cylinder head. Now both lines are fire sleeved and that gives me piece of mind. 4. I replaced the stock air filter with a K&N washable filter The bike fired right up and when checking the AFV it was at 100% I rode the bike for about 20 minutes above 3000 RPM. Still not quite where I would like the bike to be but from a seat of the pants perspective the bike is running better. I have a new O2 sensor that I will replace next as part of changing the spark plugs and wires which I expect will be delivered this week. One final note: when changing the fuel manifold intake seals I found it easiest to use a long 1/4" ball allen bit on a long 1/4" ratchet extension for the 2 bolts on the right side of the frame and the hand held ball allen key for the 2 on the left hand side of the frame. More updates after the next series of parts replacements. Any advice appreciated! | ||
| Mmesa005 |
Need to change the name of this thread to "Rough Running 02 X1" My final update for this thread: 1. Changed Spark Plugs with new NKG's and gapped to .040 2. Changed 02 sensor to Bosch unit 3. Tried changing spark plug wires but the ones I was sent wont work with my spark unit - needs smaller diameter connectors at the spark unit. The bike is smoother, less rough at idle. Took her for a 1/2 hour ride, no problems, on the streets or cruising on the highway. Plenty of power and nice and smooth especially about 2500 RPM. Feels like a new clutch is in store for the bike (winter project) but other than that the bike is running fine and I plan to just keep riding and enjoying it! In the end it appeared that the bike benefited from all of the parts I replaced. To recap the work performed: 1. SeaFoam in fuel for 1 full tank of gas 2. replaced intake manifold seals 3. cleaned throttle body 4. replaced fuel filter and fuel lines to and from filter 5. replace stock air filter with K&N unit 6. replaced spark plugs and gapped to .040 7. replaced cylinder head temperature sensor 8. replaced 02 sensor 9. TPS reset 10. AFV reset to 100% 11. changed engine oil and filter 12. change primary oil 13. adjusted clutch 14. adjusted primary chain tension To-do list: 1. replace brake pads and flush master cylinder, brake lines, calipers. 2. replace clutch 3. replace clutch cable 4. replace front and rear isolators Thanks again to all who provided support - both technical and moral! (Message edited by mmesa005 on August 03, 2011) | ||
| Two_seasons |
I did not note anywhere where you said anything about your drive belt. It should be adjusted to be "stupid loose", in other words, about 2" deflection. If you ride two-up, even looser. If the drive belt is tight when you sit on it, it needs to be adjusted so you feel at least 1.25" deflection when you sit on it. More for two riders. Otherwise, bye-bye over time to your tranny output shaft bearings. May I suggest you put a Penske or Works shock on the back too. Revalve the forks too. American Sport Bike dot com can hook you up. | ||
| Kalali |
Just curious as what makes you think you need a clutch, specially after just 8000 miles? Clutch units on these bikes are pretty bulletproof. Unless of course the 8000 miles were put on the bike 1/4 mile at a time...!! | ||
| Firemanjim |
So what was your AFV before you reset it to 100---that will tell you alot. And you should replace the two outer intake manifold allens with regular bolts as they are much easier to deal with. Is your vacuum inlet on bottom of intake sealed? Other than that sounds like you are on the right track. | ||
| Mmesa005 |
Two_Seasons, I will check the drive belt deflection, thank you for pointing that out! Kalali, With regards to the clutch I have adjusted it but it does not really grab until I am almost at the end of letting the clutch lever out. Compared to my 04 Sportster the clutch engages sooner and with more authority. Also, it feels similar to how my Honda Magna felt when it needed to have it's clutch replaced (21k miles). I would like to at minimum replace the clutch diaphragm spring as I have read that reduces the amount of force needed to pull the clutch lever? I may be wrong about the clutch but when not being the original owner of the bike and of course being told the bike was babies all I can go by is how it is performing today. Firemanjim, I don't have my notes from when I first looked at the AFV % and I don't want to try and recollect a number as it would be 50/50 guess right or wrong. I will certainly keep in mind your recommendation for changing the Allen heads to bolts next time I replace the intake seals. It was easier to change them on my Sportster especially after going through the replacement on the Buell. I didn't have to remove the fuel tank or disconnect the injectors, but I did have to disassemble and clean the carburetor! Can you clarify more about the vacuum inlet? Where and what I should be checking for? All - any recommendations for Spark Plug Wires? Thanks again to all!! (Message edited by mmesa005 on August 03, 2011) | ||
| 01x1buell |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/644914.html?1311953889 the vacuum fitting jim was talking about. | ||
| Mmesa005 |
01xbuell, I will read the thread! | ||
| Mmesa005 |
I have checked the drive belt and it is just about 2" of deflection. I also checked the Throttle Body vacuum plug and it is there: see photo  I think that is everything to check for now? Thanks again for all the help and support!! |
