| Author | Message | ||
     Ustorque |
Could someone give me a good place to start with front and rear setup of my new S3. Im right around 195 with all my gear on. Thanks! | ||
| Mtndude |
I'm in the same sitch. About 190 with gear and a fresh 1998 S3 that is currently set super firm and is knocking me silly. Need to soften it up a bit but curious about a baseline. Will be anxiously awaiting a response to your post. Thanks- John | ||
| Essmjay |
Factory defaults are: Front fork rebound= max damping minus 0.5 turns, Front fork compression= max damping minus 1.75 turns, Rear shock rebound= max damping minus 1 turn, Rear shock compression= max damping minus 2.5 turns. On the front the rebound adjusters are at the top of the forks, the compression is down at the axle. On the rear shock the rebound is on the front small canister, the compression is back at the swingarm end. One or two clicks in or out make a difference. Shane | ||
| Mtndude |
Helpful info- thanks! | ||
| Buellistic |
Want SUSPENSION SYSTEM SET UP Class 101 for my 1997 S3T and also for 99/01 S3's, just PM me for copy's ... | ||
| Ustorque |
Ok so i was able to do a bit of tinkering this afternoon and figured id give the settings above a shot. All went ok during adjustment except rear compression damping. You said full damping -2.5 turns, but i dont even have 2 full turns out from full damping. Just curious as to why. My bike has the 1st showa shock with the SRP on it, if that helps. thanks! | ||
| 01x1buell |
would that setting be a good place to start for an x1... | ||
| Essmjay |
Those setting would be for the new Showa. So you will have to experiment. All the way in is hard, all the way out is soft. Pick a spot in the middle and try it. | ||
| Kalali |
"Those setting would be for the new Showa" I don't have the instructions with me right now but I I know for sure that the "factory" settings for the short "recalled" rear shock are significantly different from the original long shock on my 2000 X1. I will look it up when I get home. | ||
| Ustorque |
awesome, thanks! | ||
| Xl1200r |
What's everyone use to adjust the preload? My water pump pliers aren't big enough to turn those giant nuts... | ||
| Essmjay |
If you have the Showa, there are holes in the can for a spanner. Picture a semi-circular hook with a hook at the curved end and a handle going the other way. Hook the hole and turn the can. after loosening the lock nut. I think the spanner I have is from a bicycle toolbox, but it is close enough to right to work. | ||
| Jim2 |
I bought a plumbing wrench from Ace hardware that isn't perfect by any means but it is cheap and has helped me several times. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ ctId=1273239 I still need a Big adjustable wrench to break loose the lock nut on the shock. I got mine from Harbor Freight tools (on the cheap). The ACE plumbing wrench is capable of turning the can using the larger nut built into the back of the can (the one the lock nut jambs against). It's not a proper fit and not super easy to use but has worked for me. The biggest problem is that the nut on the back of the shock is very thin and any wrench will tend to slip off. The ACE wrench also has a spanner wrench hook on the side of it that can hook into the can holes and turn the can that way too. I use a combination of both to run up the pre-load for two-up riding, or back down for solo. I have a 2000 M2, I don't know if the shock adjustments are the same size. (Message edited by jim2 on June 17, 2011) | ||
| Xl1200r |
thanks, guys. I just need to pick up some cheap tools, it seems. I generally don't mess with the preload on my bikes. I keep the S3T on the "rider plus luggage" setting. My passenger is only 105lbs, so it's not worth the trouble to change it just for her. | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, if you get a little aggressive in your riding, tuning the suspension for that extra 105 pounds will make a noticeable handling difference !!! |
