| Author | Message | ||
     Kalali |
I'm getting an occasional exhaust backfire while riding and it seems to be accompanied by an instantaneous loss of power. After searching all the posts about the ignition switch issues I wondered if mine is faulty albeit seemingly normal behavior. Upon visual inspection of the wires on the back of the unit I see: 1) one wire with the cover real dried out dark and 2) it gets really hot when the headlight is on. If I remove the headlight fuse the wire is nice and cool. So my questions are 1) is it normal for the wire to get hot when the headlight is on and 2) can you guys think of another reason for the occasional backfire and instantaneous power loss? No codes and the biker runs fine otherwise. Thanks. | ||
| Jramsey |
If the bottom of the switch is hot to touch its toast. Went through the same thing last fall. | ||
| Kalali |
Well, the metal bottom does not get that hot. The red/black wire (that looks beat up) is what gets really hot. Either way, I'm going to replace it with an American Sport Bike sourced unit. Looks like its not a direct replacement but the price is good. Thanks for the quick response. | ||
| Jramsey |
Al's switch is a good replacement for the money. You will have to modify the back side of the dash to install the one Al sells the barrel and its flats are about .050 larger,simple fix with a die grinder. It has 3 red wires as oem, one solid red other two have tracers one white the other black that need to be reversed or you will energize the fuel pump at the both switch positions. | ||
| Kalali |
Just a quick update. Replaced the ignition switch with one from Al. Pretty straightforward except for minor fitment issue, different wiring connections, and new key which fits the gas cap but not the underseat lock. All were anticipated. It is also a much better built unit. Best $30 (including shipping) spent on the bike so far. As for backfire/popping/power loss, it turned out somehow I was running stock timing maps with (slightly modified) Race fuel maps. All symptoms totally disappeared after loading the Race timing maps. No backfire, no popping, just a linear acceleration from idle right up to red line and clean decel all the way back. The momentary power loss could have been caused by the switch. Can't be sure. Now we'll see what is next... | ||
| Two_seasons |
Kalali: Please post back over time and let us know if this truly fixed this issue. I'm having the same thing happen with my 2000 X1. The symptoms are this...sputtering on accel between gears and while taking off from stops. I've checked the relays (be careful in there, I removed the bracket that holds the relay/fuses trays to the tail and in the process pulled a wire out of the back of the relays connector that affected the start circuit...as usual these days, the transportation manufacturers (cars, trucks, motorcycles) wire these vehicles "bow string tight"!!! I guess they are saving pennies per vehicle, but the headaches associated with this logic is annoying, as it's hard to trouble shoot wiring when you cannot move the module the wiring is attached to. I haven't checked the ignition switch yet, but as I understand the issue, the wires/ignition will show signs of overheating. That is my next area to check. Please keep us posted on this fix. Thanks. | ||
| Kalali |
A couple of things. If you have the original ignition switch, put your finger on the red/black wire right behind the switch with the switch in On position (the headlight on mode). In my case, it would get too hot to touch just after a minute or so. As for sputtering upon acceleration, my suggestion is to doublecheck your TPS zero setting and check your plug wires. Visual inspection of the wires is not reliable. Either check them with an ohmmeter or toss them out and get new ones. They are fairly cheap. Does the Sputtering get better or worse as the engine warms up? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Hot or cold, sputtering is present. Under WOT, it must be going into closed loop as I cannot get the sputtering. I filled up all three bikes last week before Homecoming. My 1125r got a check engine light last Tuesday and the 2000 X1 got the CEL the next night. Maybe coincidence, but maybe bad gas. RPM4X4 has experienced the same thing within the last 10 days from the same fuel distributor. Only problem, he got his gas in MPLS/SP, not here in SE Wisconsin. Since then, the 1125r hasn't had the CEL light up, but I've refilled it with another brand of gasoline. RPM4x4 wound up replacing an injector on his 1125r. I'll feel the ignition switch and visally inspect. And get some new plug wires too. I think they are the originals and we all know what UV does to rubber over time. I've put new NGK Irridiums in the 2000 X1 2X now since I purchased in December 2010. Another thing I'm going to do is put some Amsoil Performance Improver in with the gas to clean the injectors. I'm saving this thread to "Favorites" and will post back with what I find. | ||
| Two_seasons |
UPDATE Felt the ignition switch after a ride to the Post Office. Red hot That, to me, would indicate an intermittent contact within the switch. Will order the switch from AmericanSportBike.com and report back. | ||
| Kalali |
Just remember to switch the order of the wires before you splice them into the harness. The new switch is off-ign-park vs. the stock that is off-park-ign. You'll see what I mean when you get the switch in your hands. |
