| Author | Message | ||
     Alfau |
I have been reading old school archives on oil pump drive gear and it occured to me that if you are able to determine that the worm drive gear on the motor is ok ,can you simply replace the gear on the oil pump itself instead of the drive gear in the motor? please say yes. I havn't been game to look yet but will have to for safety sake,better be sure than sorry. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The failure only affects a small percentage of bikes. I only found out about the potential issue after I had already racked up enough miles to prove I didn't have the problem. Most bikes that have the problem seem to make the marks on the gear between 12,000 and 16,000 miles. I never bothered to check because mine was past 45,000 by the time I found out about the potential issue. | ||
| Oddalloy |
I believe the answer to your question is "no". The drive gear inside the motor is the one that's the sometimes problem child. Replacing the gear that's part of the oil pump does nothing for you unless that gear had been screwed-up to begin with by the other gear having gone bad. | ||
| Rick_a |
It's the gear on the motor that wears if there's a problem. My drive gear was paper thin on one side, and the oil pump gear showed no wear whatsoever. | ||
| Kalali |
"My drive gear was paper thin on one side" What is the manufacturing date of your bike? And how many miles on the bike when you inspected the gear? Thanks. | ||
| Rick_a |
1996 manufactured June '96. It had nearly 20K when inspected. | ||
| Alfau |
I'm in australia,13 odd hours time lapse to USA,makes getting involved in discussions difficult. Speedo was dead when I got my bike so their is no way of telling what mileage it's done.I want to check for peace of mind. Just wanted to consider my options. I have read convincing posts that indicate that it's not the gear that's defective, it's the alignment of the oil pump. Does the bronze replacement gear wear after time? I understand that new gear won't disintegrate like the original but logic dictates that if the oil pump is out of wack,wear will happen even if very slowly. I appreciate your thoughts.. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I read somewhere on this board that the gears are the same size as each other so any little imperfection gets amplified as the same teeth mesh over and over. I also read that the root cause was a tiny amount of misalignment in the crank shaft might play a role. I'm pretty sure that the new, fancy gear isn't actually bronze but a steel gear with titanium nitride coating. Look at this G.I.S. for titanium nitride and see the color? http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1578&bih=77 5&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=titanium+nitride&aq=f&aqi=&aql=& oq= | ||
| Reepicheep |
The new style gear should pretty much solve the problem, and whitebuell had a great thread where he made a very convincing case as to the root of the problem. Regardles, the solution is the new gear, which fortunately you can buy now. I believe it is some sort of berryllium alloy, it's a great piece. You can inspect to see if you have the problem simply by dropping your oil pump and looking up into the cam cavity... but make sure you rotate the engine so you can see all sides of the gear. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You'd better listen to Reepicheep; he lost one to this malady  | ||
| Alfau |
Guess what i'll be doing on the weekend. thank you very much for your imputt. | ||
| X1brett |
I just pulled the oil pump on my X1 and it looks like I have the old gear. I then started disassembly and the gear cover doesn't want to come off easily. Does something hang up inside? Before I forced it off, I wanted to check and be sure I wouldn't break something. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Not me! I saved my M2 by checking the gear... replaced it on the 9sx as well, but probably didn't need too. I think it was RickA who lost an S1 this way though... To pull the cam cover, you need to release the pressure on the rocker boxes (meaning remove them). You can remove both, or put one at TDC and remove the other (but don't let the cams come out when you do it that way). | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you're talking about the cam cover, you have to unload the cams and remove the ignition timing stuff. DON'T do this without a book! | ||
| X1brett |
Thanks Reepicheep! I'm thankful to you all for recommending I check this. I feel lucky with 23,000 hard miles on the bottom-end. Which lines up the cam marks, TDC before the intake stroke or power stroke? (Message edited by x1brett on May 17, 2011) | ||
| Akbuell |
First, get the manual. And look around the web, you should be able to find a fellow Bueller nearby who can help. TDC on the compression stroke. Unbolt the cam position sensor (I let mine hang, carefully, by the wires). With one set of pushrods removed, and the other cyl at TDC, the pressure is off the cams, and the cover will come off. If one/more of the cams fall out (it happens), then the other rocker box should be taken off, making it easy to time the cams. Red Loctite on the pinon nut, and torque to 35-45 ft-lbs (48-61 Nm). The crank locking tool (see Al at American Sport Bike) makes an awkward wrestling match simple. Cam cover screws torqued to 80-110 in-lbs (9-12 Nm), and there is a tightening sequence. Not a difficult job, can be done in 4-6hrs, but the manual is REALLY important. | ||
| X1brett |
I actually have the manual but I guess I overlooked a few steps. I appreciate the detail Akbuell. I look forward to seeing inside these covers - bit different as I'm used to wrenching on cars. Thanks! Alfau, you get yours done over the weekend? | ||
| Akbuell |
You are very welcome, hope the info helped. When I did mine, I confirmed I had the paper rocker box gaskets when I took the first one off, so I went ahead and took off the other one, to put in the new metal gaskets. Since I was already in there .... Because the rocker boxes and all of the pushrods were lying on the bench, I went ahead and pulled all of the cams once I got the cover off. Didn't have to worry about having one get loose and trying to retime just one, or having one get bumped and fall to the floor and get damaged. ( I've seen my work ) On initial start up after assembly, the engine may sound terrible, like it was not back together right. Mine did. Turns out the lifter(s) had 'bled' down, resulting in excess valve clearance. A very gentle, 2k ish RPM tour of the neighborhood cured the issue. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Smart guy!
Yup. Makes you skin crawl to listen too, doesn't it?!?! I hate that part... | ||
| Buellistic |
Since no one has said what the oil pump drive gear Part Number is ??? DRIVE GEAR,oil pump PN 26391-06 . Want a little oil pump "INFO", just PM me . | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
 http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17126.html | ||
| X1brett |
Great. The gear and cam cover gasket are on their way. Maybe I should order some metal rocker cover gaskets as well. I'm not looking forward to that excessive valve chatter. Those self adjusting valves are impressive, although they always sound loose, like a solid cam. I'm glad I know to expect that though. Thanks! | ||
| Alfau |
I had a look at the drive gear,it is the origanol ,it looked ok but I decided to go ahead with fix. I too have ordered the drive gear and a wheelbarrow full of other associated odds and ends from A.S.B., difference is mine have to be shipped from US to Australia..Whenever I buy parts locally I often have to wait until they get them in for me. It'll give me time to come to terms with the procedure /ignition timing I find a little daunting. I really appreciate the help. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Static timing isn't bad at all, from what I remember on the tuber. Even easier on the XB's. | ||
| Buellistic |
STATIC TIMING, "IMHO" is the easiest and BEST way if done "CORRECTLY" !!! | ||
| Akbuell |
Alfau: Re timing, I took an awl and scribed two lines from the gearcase cover onto the CPS plate. At reassembly, I carefully lined the marks back up, tightened down the CPS, and was done. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
I read all the posts way back about the gear and decided to install the bronze gear and the 2008 oilpump. I was told the oilpump is a big improvement over the older pumps so I splurgded.... All total it was about $300 and fairly easy, just time consuming. Advice would be take your time, buy the best gaskets, mark the location of your timing plate, loc-tite and antiseize. If the bronze gear ever wears it won't take out the rest of the motor. Mine has about 5000 high rpm miles on it with no signs of wear. Good Luck |
