| Author | Message | ||
     Stevegula |
I opened the clutch cover.. admittedly screwed the adjusting screw too far clockwise that is probably recommended (especially since I meant to be tightening it).. then it would appear I over compensated coming back.. Finally got it to where I think it belongs .... try to drive out of the driveway and it sounds like the transmission is about to fall out the bottom. I went more clockwise thinking maybe I over tightened and it's still giving me the noise. Thoughts? | ||
| Hootowl |
That's the coarse adjuster. You should make adjustments with cable length. | ||
| Stevegula |
regardless.. I'm in a situation where I feel something is broke. Is it possible I'm over-sweating this and just need to keep working the coarse adjuster until I get it back to where it belongs.. or could I have misaligned something by overadjusting in any particular direction? It pretty much sounds like a car does when you're grinding gears. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Do you have the service manual? The clutch adjustment is a pretty simple and straight forward procedure. I would follow that, and then see where you are at. | ||
| Someday |
There are occasions where the lip that the inner ramp of the clutch release mechanism sits on, in the aluminum primary cover, cracks. If that happens no amount of adjusting will solve your problem. To make sure that isn't the problem you must remove the release mechanism and have a look. | ||
| Stevegula |
I've readjusted according to the manual several times, still having issues. In gear with the clutch fully pulled in I'm gettin this slow knock from what sounds like the transmission. | ||
| Stevegula |
photos aren't great but I couldn't find any cracks http://www.stevegula.net/files/buell/ I re-assembled and made as great an effort to put it back to where the tension is supposed to be on the internal adjuster.. which was pretty loose on the handle so I adjusted the upper cable adjustment to get it back to where I felt it belonged. Unfortunately, I left the ignition on so the battery is too dead to start. Charging now to try again later this evening. my concern is that I've managed to cause something in the transmission to become misaligned. I'm hoping that's not a possibility with what I've been doing. | ||
| Davefl |
How was everything working before you adjusted the clutch? | ||
| Stevegula |
fine. It just always felt that when I fully pulled in the clutch lever it was still engaged to some degree (if I revved the bike in gear it would definitely try to roll forward)... so I was just trying to fix that a little. :-/ | ||
| Buellistic |
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT Class 101, Just PM me if you want a copy ... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Are you running the original primary chain tensioner? I think they changed them sometime mid 2001, the original had a backplate that was too thin for a big boy bike (though it worked fine on the sportster.  ). | ||
| Hootowl |
Did you remember to put the spring back in between the cover and the ball/ramp assembly? | ||
| Stevegula |
I remembered top put the spring back in :-) is it possible the primary could have loosened up in all of this? Just tried it again.. still having the same problem. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Either I'm missing something in this conversation or it doesn't make any sense. Even if your out of adjustment, there shouldn't be any knocking noise unless you dropped something into the clutch/transmission area and it's getting kicked around inside.(like a ramp ball or something) You need somebody on site to check out the problem. You could do some serious damage here. | ||
| Stevegula |
All three bearings where between the ramps. It's definitely not something being kicked around. It's clearly losing drive power when I engage the clutch enough to get the noise. | ||
| Akbuell |
The clutch adj should not be related to a knocking noise. Check your primary chain adjustment. A loose one will cause a knocking sound. If the noise is still there after the chain adjustment, might do to pull the primary cover and check the engine sprocket and nut. And the alternator rotor assy. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Are you saying it doesn't make any noise when the clutch is not engaged ? | ||
| Buellistic |
What needs to be checked is: The "GRENADE PLATE" SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90 if it has gone "BAD"(the PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT is to UP-DATE the CLUTCH removing it replacing it with 2 STEEL and 1 FIBER PLATES) ... Throw out bearing, BEARING PN 8885 ... Are you adjusting the ADJUSTING SCREW PN 11752 correctly because the FSM left a few words of HOW TO OUT ... Did you "LUBE" the CLUTCH LEVER and CLUTCH CABLE ... And you could be running your PRIMARY CHAIN "TOO TIGHT, PLUS your Drive Belt "TOO TIGHT" which has an effect on how your well your clutch works ... Too little or too much fluid in transmission does not help either ... This is all in my CLUTCH CABLE ADJUSTMENT Class 101, again just PM me if you want a copy ... (Message edited by buellistic on April 14, 2011) | ||
| Stevegula |
Only makes noise when clutch is engaged and trying to drive forward. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Perhaps you didn't wreck it. Try this: loosen up the cable til it's loose and floppy. Then turn the adjustment screw until it just barely makes contact inside. It's subtle so be careful- pretend you're trying to crack a safe  now back off the screw a small amount so that it's not pushing against the clutch. now adjust the clutch cable. Perhaps it works OK now? Then again, perhaps something is actually wrong in there. For reference, my "grenade plate" lasted 50,000 miles. also, the plates were EASY to replace. | ||
| Daveswan |
I got this from a HD-tech, on another forum. I did it, and it was foolproof. "Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster. Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed... 1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way. 2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force. 3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it. 4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play. You should be good to go . Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results. It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice." | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, loosening the cable and then holding the RAMP,outer PN 25409-94A to the rear gives a better chance for leverage adjustment as in my CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT Class 101, "BUT" each to his own... PM me for a copy and read it all ... | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Buellistic said... | ||
| Ebutch |
Steve:Check clutch lever at handle-bar my cable end at leaver was e-long-gated warned from not being lubed.I could adjust it all day long and it wold not adjust.Till I replaced lever.  | ||
| Ebutch |
At pivit point of shoulder bolt of cluch-lever. Here,s my nut-scratcher:  | ||
| Ebutch |
Bearing #8885 at clutch adjuster screw was warn-out from me over adjusting to compensate warn lever.  |
