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Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 10:06 pm: | 
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OK,
Rechecked and reset the TPS. Did nothing...
I'm lost and thinking of ordering new o2, TPS.
One question regarding the ecmspy itself, I ordered the one on the link in one of the earlier post but it's missing some of the "tabs" I see in ecmspy guide.
It's missing: "Functions", "Fuel maps", "Other maps" and "Eeprom".
Why is that, what don't I understand?
Getting real frustrated with the whole damn thing...
Wasted $200 when I could've just gone to the dealer and have the tune it on dyno (they asked $250 for it) without all the headache.
But hopefully some of you guys have some info, I don't want to give up. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 10:14 pm: |
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It is missing tabs because you are in the standard mode. Under the view tab click it and click professional and viola! there is the other tabs. |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2011 - 11:28 am: |
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Thanks Preybird1!
Now if I can get some maps from somewhere, anyone?
I'd like to get the race cm map and stock I guess too although I'm still leaning that something is crapped sinc eI haven't touched the maps.
Maybe TPS, or O2 sensor or? |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 02:13 pm: |
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Thanks to those who sent me maps!
Little update, I loaded maps from my race ECM and they look fine as far as maps go.
Changed the battery and cleaned and sanded the ground wires.
Ecmspy showed no codes but on the second tab, there are all kinds of error "tabs" and all if them except fan had a check mark next to them.
There was ECM rom failure, ram failure, O2 shorted, tsp shorted etc. Etc. All of them ha a check mark...
That's why I got new battery and cleaned the grounds but to no avail.
Any ideas? |
Snowbees
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:04 am: |
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With an AFV of 151, check the intake seals first. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 10:24 am: |
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If the code(s) say short or open that can be from disconnecting the sensors while the battery is connected. And that is no big deal. But the rom and ram failure that is no good. I would reset the AFV and erase the codes and cycle the ignition and see if the codes come back and if they don't you should be good. Just get a good map in there. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 10:26 am: |
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I would put in a new o2 sensor.....They are cheap. Use a bosh brand part #12014. Also you may want to get a new rear head temp sensor. Those 2 items can cause the bike to run like crap. and you would not even know they were bad to begin with. |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 05:09 pm: |
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Thanks. I have new O2 which I'm gonna put in tomorrow. I hope to have enough time to also change the intake seals and TPS.
Head temp sensor I don't have and that could be since it's the rear cylinder that seems to be the one that's not running properly. |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:36 pm: |
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Will cycle the ignition also and see why that does.
Thanks to you guys all, much appreciated!
(Message edited by Flying_finnish on April 02, 2011) |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:41 pm: |
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The stupid thing about the sensor is that it only reads the rear cylinder temp and not the front. Which does cause a few problems. Also the o2 sensor is a one wire deal and it must get into the operating heat range to work properly. They can be tested and i can't remember how to test them. I think it was tested with a torch to get it hot and a volt meter to verify it working????? |
Snowbees
| | Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 04:58 am: |
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you can watch the engine temp in ecmspy, should be at ambient temp when engine is cold and rise steadily as it warms up, if the rise is steady with no erratic readings then i would say your sensor is ok.
Injectors and inj.seals worth checking too if your new 02 sensor fails to solve the problem , If you swap the injectors over and nothing changes then most likely you can rule them out.
151 AFV, means its adding 50% more fuel to richen the mix, my vote is intake seals but i hope the new 02 sensor solves it for you.
(Message edited by snowbees on April 03, 2011)
(Message edited by snowbees on April 03, 2011) |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 03:58 pm: |
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OK, changed the TPS but that came with another problem: the part that connects to the part in throttle body had tabs in different location than the one that came out resulting to TPS basically not working, it only starts moving once the throttle is about 75% open...
Is there different position throttle position sensors or can it or part in throttle body itself be adjusted?
Ah, I think I'm done, will be working so much the following weeks that I have no time to mess around.
Thanks for anyone for advice, I will follow up once the problem is solved.
Oh and message to Eric Buell or whoever engineers this bike: for example, if the O2 sensor was moved to a different location just by an inch, it would be the easiest job to do to remove it. In it's current position, it's a PITA unless you remove the headers, WTF?
(Message edited by Flying_Finnish on April 04, 2011) |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2011 - 02:59 am: |
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Small update:
Bike's at the dealer (it's a Harley but also a Buell dealer and has 2 Buell mechanics) and they've changed the intake seals, TPS, O2 and intake temp sensor but bike still runs like crap...
Bike ran fine for a minute but then started to act like crap again. It's the rear cylinder (which I also figured) that doesn't get fuel for some reason.
He's thinking it's either the injector or wiring harness. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2011 - 12:21 pm: |
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Somethings don't make sense. You don't need to remove the headers in order to replace the O2 sensor. It took me less than 5 minutes to replace mine. Also, the TPS only goes in one way and should begin reading as soon as you begin twisting the throttle.
Usually the head temp sensor is the culprit when the bike begins acting up as it gets warmed up. |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Friday, April 08, 2011 - 02:13 am: |
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I could've replaced the O2 if I had the right box wrench but with regular wrench, it's so close to the cylinder and in a location which is very tight. If it was moved "clockwise" just a bit, it would be much easier to reach. Not a big deal but something could've been though of better.
TPS went in the right way but the part inside that rotates didn't align with the part in the throttle. There are two little tabs on each and in the TPS I got, those tabs were about 90 degrees in wrong position. Maybe it's for a different Buell model or a Harley.
In any case, there's now correct TPS but that was not the problem.
Temp sensor could be the issue although bike didn't get warm yet, it ran just a bit time ok but then acted up again.
I'll post another update soon. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Friday, April 08, 2011 - 02:22 pm: |
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"...with regular wrench, it's so close to the cylinder..."
I see what you mean. I used an O2 sensor socket, the one with the slit and it was easy.
BTW, what do the plugs look like before and after it craps out? |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 12:58 pm: |
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Oh yes, with that, O2 is easy... I didn't have that...
Plugs look otherwise ok but the rear is completely dry when the engine runs like crap, seem it's not getting fuel. |
99_x1
| | Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 09:19 pm: |
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have you tried swaping the injector plugs from front to rear cylinder, see if the problem follows the wiring harness or injector. it may not run that great being a short runner intake, but its worth a try. |
Flying_finnish
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 11:36 am: |
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OK guys... An update...
Bike's running great now.
It now has new intake seals, new TPS, new battery and new O2 sensor although all of the above in the end were fine.
The main culprit was rear injector. Once that was changed, bike ran pretty good.
I had the bike at local, large HD Dealer who is also Buell specialist and even after the new injector & other stuff. Their main Buell guy said he'd like to adjust the maps on a dyno if I wanted (bike has Race ECM) to get it running real good and I authorized it so the ecm was adjusted while in dyno and now it runs great.
It always had a slight hesitation/slightly crappy running issue between 1500-300 rpm which also was an issue after the injector etc. and what cured it, interestingly enough was adjusting the fuel maps between those rpms LEANER, not richer.
So, there you have it, I wanted to give an "problem solved" update for those who might need help with similar issues.
Thanks for all the help & suggestions, really appreciated. |
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