Author |
Message |
Someday
| Posted on Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 09:14 am: |
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I've got the feeling the spring plate in the clutch on my '98 S3T with 48,000 is going. I plan to open it up soon as I make a spring relief tool. I want to remove the spring plate regardless and need a useable stock fiber plate and 2 steel plates, can anyone help me here? I'll pay for them! Thanks |
Cyclonecharlie
| Posted on Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 09:30 am: |
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Don't have any extra plates, but I got mine at the dealership.I think it was ten something for a steel ans around twenty for the fiber. Less than five to make the spring tool. Check your primary adj.shoe |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 10:45 am: |
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CLUTCH PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT Class 101 available on request, just PM me for a "INFO" Copy ... |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 11:00 am: |
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That mileage sounds about right. My X1 went bad at around 50,000. |
Someday
| Posted on Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 01:53 pm: |
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Well, I just got the clutch out and everything looks like new, even the spring plate, which I'm still going to replace. The bike jumps once in a while when leaving a stop in 1st gear, like someone is fanning the clutch. The drive belt is good, the sprockets are good, tension is correct, primary is in spec. I'm thinking it's the engagement dogs on the 1st gears. Looks like I'll take the tranny out and have a look. Anyone have symptoms like this? Thanks, Don |
Jim2
| Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 01:54 am: |
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I did have an occasional lurch in 1st gear that I just fixed. It was my fault for leaving out a spacer from my countershaft after replacing the countershaft bearing that was toast. Don't ever do that. The net effect was that the dogs that should engage for first were barely meeting and eventually wore enough to stop meeting at all. If your spring plate is ok and everything else seems good you might have worn out clutch bearing, clutch drum pins backing out, weak detent spring, or maybe even toasted countershaft bearing, or a combination of things. I have extra OEM steel and fiber clutch plates I could sell or trade. They are only slightly used. |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 02:24 am: |
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I get that too, mines got 24K miles on it. I've not done anything to they tranny or clutch besides adjustment and trying different fluids. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 10:21 am: |
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The tranny shifter dogs on 1st gear are worn or the detent plate pins are backing out. If you can afford it have the tranny gears back-cut to eliminate this from happening. It could even be a shifter pawl issue starting to show up. |
Someday
| Posted on Monday, January 03, 2011 - 10:34 am: |
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Jim2, PM sent. Guys, I'll probably be removing the tranny today to see what's up. I'll post my findings soon. Thanks for the advice! Regards, Don (Message edited by someday on January 03, 2011) |
Jim2
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 12:43 am: |
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Someday, PM returned. Don't forget to check torque on the starter bolts and if gasket is leaking now is the time to replace it. Also if the stator wire boot is leaking it's a great time to put some Hi-temp RTV around it. |
V74
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 04:36 am: |
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how do you make the spring tool ? |
Someday
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 09:58 am: |
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V74, Go here and scroll down for some pictures: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/193459.html?1148254375#POST642880 I used a 3/4" high piece of 3" PVC pipe and the stock clutch adjustment nut along with a piece of 1/2" X 1" X 4" aluminum with a 1/2" hole drill thru it. Worked like a charm. I'll get some pictures soon. |
Someday
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 12:17 pm: |
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Got the idea for the puller from Natexlh1000 in the archives.
I machined a step in the ID of the PVC to clear the inner clutch hub.
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Someday
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 12:19 pm: |
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Here's the reason for the bike jumping out of 1st gear.
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Blks1l
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 01:29 pm: |
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Someday is that a crack, or an indention? |
Someday
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 02:36 pm: |
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Blks1, It's a crack that goes down to the bottom of the shift fork groove. I'm really lucky that the whole dog didn't crack off because the gears are heat treated quite hard. It's been doing this for about a year and I figured I'd try and find the cause over the winter. I split my time between my '98S3T and my '08Uly so it hasn't gotten a lot of miles on it the last year, guess I lucked out! It looks like a dent because the crack is filled with oil, I haven't cleaned it yet. (Message edited by someday on January 04, 2011) |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 08:30 pm: |
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Dude! That's kinda bad. |
Someday
| Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 09:16 am: |
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After taking the gear off and cleaning it it has minuet cracks all over it, I'm lucky! I still don't know why it's jumping out of 1st gear. This isn't the sliding gear that engages 1st. The 3rd gear slider on the countershaft engages 1st and that's in good shape. I'm puzzled! |
Jim2
| Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 04:04 pm: |
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So if it's not countershaft 3rd, the cracked gear must be either mainshaft 1st (#24 in service manual Figure 6-35 Transmission Assembly diagram), OR mainshaft 2nd (#22 in same diagram). My book is a 99'-2000' M2 cyclone book so the figure numbers may differ. Which is it? |
Crackhead
| Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 04:24 pm: |
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Would a 3" PVC connector piece work or is the ID to big? |
Someday
| Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 04:37 pm: |
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Crackhead, I looked at a 3" connector and I think it would be too big. Lowes has 2' lengths of 3" for $6. You could probably just put a big bevel on the ID with a file, you just need a little clearance. Jim, It's mainshaft 1st gear. My manual is a '97 S3/S3T and it has different #'s. I found on a Sportster forum that it's a common problem. The dogs get slightly rounded and the beveled face of the dogs gets hammered almost flat which causes it to jump out of gear. After a good look at countershaft 1st and countershaft 3rd I have that condition. Looks like I'll be replacing 3 gears. Expensive but I won't grenade the tranny! Gotta keep these old tubers going! (Message edited by someday on January 05, 2011) |
Fast1075
| Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 05:18 pm: |
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Have all of the gears and the shafts magnafluxed..it would suck to halfway do the job and have another of the gears crack...and my advice is to send the transmission out and have it back-cut..it will work FAR better. |
Someday
| Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2011 - 09:00 am: |
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Fast, All the gear dogs are back-cut already. It seems that over time the 1st gear dogs get hammered flat, loose the back-cut then start popping out of gear. Magnaflux is a good idea. |
Crackhead
| Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2011 - 03:14 pm: |
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I could use a dremel to increase the ID. If you combined the bar with the sprocket holder, it would make for a slick and lightweight tool. |