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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through November 22, 2010 » M2 belt replacement « Previous Next »

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Fasted
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

gonna replace my brother's m2 belt on thanksgiving. any comments, experiences, how tos, or no-nos appreciated. i checked out the knowledge vault and found some info, but i am up for any additional input

any other archives as well. pix are especially helpful.

i'll have to use the beam method to suspend the frame.

floor jack, auto jackstands, come-along, tiedowns, giant allen socket (or bolt-double nut substitute).......what else do i need?

got the fsm, got the garage, need your help. thanks ahead for your attention
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 03:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fasted:

Since you have asked me questions before and "i" have your e-mail address, the "INFO" HELP is on the way ...
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Scott_in_nh
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Scott Free method

This method works very well.

I believe the consensus from experience is that you do not need a cut down wrench and you do not need to put a pipe on the wrench for leverage.

Otherwise this method is effective, cheap and simple.

If you have not done it before, it takes some time to complete but is not difficult or complex.

For anyone considering posting about "frame spreading", here is a preemptive fish-beating!


This method compresses the isolator on the left by leveraging against the frame, allowing the right iso to drop out.

While you can probably measure the frame deflection this causes with a digital caliper, it is not this deflection that allows you to remove the iso.
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Scott:

You have MAIL !!!
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Duceater
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 02:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i can speak to how easy the Scott-Free method is. I just replaced my rear isolators, and it made it quite easy.
+1 on not cutting a wrench. No need to destroy a tool.

My word of advise, would be to make sure that you have a fish scale on hand, not only to weigh the fish that Scott will flog those frame spreading conspirators with, but you'll also need it to adjust the bearings in your swingarm when you're putting it back on. I couldn't resist taking the whole thing apart and polishing it. ; ) I think I have the same "Polish it while its off" disposition that Scott has.
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Fasted
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

mr. eater.....thanks for the info, but a new can of worms has been opened.....adjusting swingarm bearings. does the preload value mean that the swingarm is stationary until 3-3.75 lbs of force is applied? i find the fsm kinda confusing, as i am a swingarm-belt-iso virgin....

ANYONE ELSE HAVE ANYTHING TO ADD????????????
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Duceater
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yup, the 3 - 3.75 lbs should be the amount of force applied to lift the swingarm with the scale.
You could also check swingarm bearings too.

Scott you did those, right?
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Devil_car
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it's your first time, assume it's going to take a while. I had heard of the Scott-Free method when I replaced my swingarm bearings recently, but I couldn't find it at the time. I'm sure it makes the job a whole lot easier.

I just used pure will power and elbow-grease to get mine apart, but I wish I would have replaced the belt and isolators at the same time!

Consider greasing (or better yet replacing if they haven't ever been greased) those swingarm bearings (remember to buy the grease seals, too!). I couldn't believe how rough they were when I did mine.
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Scott_in_nh
Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New style isolators -

new Timken bearings -

latest XB style belt -

Polished swingarm -

Adjust preload per the spec -

project creep -

way more hours than intended -

Worthwhile results -

: )
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Bikemakr
Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Question for all who have used the Scott free method: there is no mention of loosening the heim joints or disconnecting the frame connector on the right, next to the brake pedal- just loosen the isolator bolts after putting the jack under the trans. Is that correct? I've got my bolts loose- they were a bitch- but am reluctant to take them the rest of the way out before checking with the pro's..

By the way my rear belt lasted 55k miles before it broke. Thanks.
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Bikemakr
Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hmmm- the jack under the trans doesn't seem to do anything as far as the bolts go- they were incredibly hard to turn for the first 4-5 turns. Had to use my air impact wrench to get them loose. 'nother thing- why did Erik put shallow torx on these? Hard as hell to get the tool to not strip the head...
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