| Author | Message | ||
     Buell_bert |
First of all it is a 2001 M2 with 14k miles. The carb worked fine earlier last year. It started late last fall (Just before winter). I did find that the carb was quite dirty when I pulled it apart a few days ago and cleaned it. It starts, idles and runs super except it cuts out at (1st-30mph @ 3500rpm and 2nd-37mph @ 3300rpm and 3rd-42mph @ 3200 and 4th-50mph @ 3000). The gearing is exact (Duh) but the mph and rpm's are approximate but close. I have no other issues with it. It runs super up till these points. It has a Forcewinder intake and after market exhaust with a 200 main and 54 idle. Just wondering if anyone has had issues like this or can point me in a direction. I may just pull the carb again (shim main?) but don't know what to look for and I really spent some time cleaning it. Well ya'll give it some thought and let me know what ya come up with. Thanks a lot. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
I don't know anybody with a stock motor that runs jets that rich. And the hotter it gets the richer you become. What exhaust are you running that requires that much fuel? 3000+rpm sounds like a needle ,main jet issue but all circuits overlap. Does it clear out above 3K to 3.5K range? I would get more in-line with what is normal jetting and then go from there.Maybe a 190 main and a 45 pilot and bring your idle in by adj. A/F screw 2.5 turns or so. Either no shims on the needle or less than 40K. Probably a good time to check your timing also. Unless you have an old ball exhaust, this should work. All this is assuming your intake seals are good and this extra richness is not masking another problem. Good luck. | ||
| Buellistic |
Cyclonecharlie: You just can not get these BUELLers to check their engine timing before they start tune'ing on their CARBURETOR ??? Have my 97 S3T carb settings at 2 1/2 turns from seat on idle screw, #48 low speed, and #200 high speed ... With a FUEL/AIR GAUGE tune'ing in the real world giving me a 12 to 1 fuel air ratio ... | ||
| Buell_bert |
Buellistic: Why would the timing change?? And if so what would cause this?? Especially: if the timing did change we would like to know why and what caused this discrepancy. I have went thru the carb and the intake gskt's. I will check the carb specs also. The other thing is why does it pull like a WILD and Crazy Machine then cut out? Would the timing make this much difference between 3500rpm and infinity. | ||
| Buell_bert |
I can not get above the 3500rpm ceiling and there are no shims in it. I guess I can go back to the 190/45 and re start again. Did you really look at the rpm/mph vs the other questions. (Message edited by Buell_Bert on June 25, 2010) | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELL_bert: Do you even know that it is correct ??? Before you let a bike set for any length of time you should set on your bile on level ground, turn the gas off and let run until it quits ... Do you put STP gas treatment(8 oz. with a full tank of gas) in you gas every 5K miles ??? You would be surprised the MYSTERY CARBURETOR problems this prevents ... There was a problem with FORCE AIR CLEANER set up in that it covered up a air vent on the CARB. BODY, were you aware of this ??? You have not said anything about your spark plug or plug wire ??? Everybody is try'ing to help you and we are all guessing ... | ||
| Jayvee |
Intake seals? | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
James, Try it once with your gas cap loose, just to eliminate the tank vent. Let us know what A/C and exhaust you have on the bike. Is the ignition stock? | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
One other thing....try your petcock in different positions (on & res) | ||
| Guell |
did you take the needles out and clean those too? Sounds like its not getting enough fuel to me | ||
| Buell_bert |
Hey Thanks for the info. It did start last fall and I keep it in a heated garage as with all my bikes, and start and let it run through a heat cycle numerous times during that period thus I do not drain the gas. I do not believe in putting anything in the gas as I tried it once and had nothing but problems till I drained the tank (this was a boat motor, 4 cyl. Chevy) nor do I do it to my other bikes, boat, ATV, cars, or lawn tractor. I have used injector/carb cleaner on occasion but only on fuel injected cars with mixed results. I do know about the Forcewinder air vent problem but as I understand it is for the earlier models that you need to grind them out to increase flow. I have brand new plugs and wires and even swapped out the coil with a known good one. I did change the intake seals (and did use Sil-glyde)but usually if they are bad it will not idle. I will try the gas cap thing. The ignition is stock. I have tried the petcock in different positions and I even removed it and cleaned and blew it out. When I removed the carb I took apart and removed and cleaned and blew out everything possible. The air cleaner is a Forcewinder and the jets are the same as when I bought it as it had a V&H with non stock air cleaner but it ran fine all last summer. I'm going to pull it back off and check a few other things. I will recheck the float level, choke/enrichener and if it had a bad vacuum switch (voes) when does that kick in as far as rpm's. I'll also check that. Well THANKS AGAIN. Sometimes it just helps to talk to others and vent a bit. I'm sure we all know it helps to get a second opinion and someone else to look at it from a different view. (Message edited by Buell_Bert on June 27, 2010) | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Check the backing plate for your S&S knock-off and make sure it has a hole that is lined up with the vent on the bell of the carb.(aka floatbowl vent) | ||
| Buell_bert |
Sorry Charlie. It is a Forcewinder. I screwed up. Another bike has the S&S one. I was babysitting 2 grand kids at the time I wrote it. I did update the posting also. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
James, As long as the VOES doesn't have a vacuum leak, you won't be able to tell the difference. What happens if you try to rev the motor over 3500 RPM? Make sure your needle is locked into the slide and not floating on you. | ||
| Buellistic |
Cyclonecharlie is right on checking the needle ... Friend of mine called say'ing his bike was running like yours ... Had him bring it over and in checking found the needle had gotten out of the hole in the bottom of the carb. holding the slide up ... All "i" did was reach my finger in and hold the slide up and let the needle re-align with the HIGH SPEED jet hole ... All that "i" can figure is it spit back through the carb. pushing the slide too far up and the force of air cocked the needle ... | ||
| Buell_bert |
Cool guys I got another few things to check. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
So James, Have you found the problem yet. Always nice to know....for future problems.  | ||
| Buell_bert |
Hey Charlie. I have had way to much going on at home and work to dive into it again. But I will let ya'll know if it is solved or upgraded. | ||
| Mtndude |
I have same problem since I installed a forcewinder except my M2 cuts out around 3800-4000 under hard acceleration then spits and coughs- no vroom vroom like before. I have stock pipe and factory carb/jets. Figured I need to rejet because of the forcewinder. Anyone suggest jet sizes? I ride mostly at 4000-6000 ft up in the mountains. Rarely go down to sea level. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
John, If you were good before the Force winder, then jet wise your good now.The Force winder is just going to make you a little leaner. I think maybe your vent to the float bowl got blocked by the Force winder. Lay your gasket on the Force winder and see if the vent hole lines up on the Force winder, if not grind it out to match the gasket. | ||
| Mtndude |
Thanks so much. I am planning on celebrating the day by working on my bike and will check this. Also I am running stock plugs- should I just keep? Also, my fuel economy is about 35MPG tops- You guy seem to be getting 45+ just curious. Its always been that way before and after the forcewinder. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
If you want to take the carb off....then check your jets and see what you have. If the bike didn't come from your area, then it more than likely is too rich for your elev. First choice would be the dyno, if not,find someone around the country that is at a high elev. and get jet numbers from him or her. Third choice would be a "SWAG" mj 185 sj 42 and find a happy spot with the A/F screw. Have fun working on your bike.  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
My bike ran like poo when I just put a K&N filter in and removed the snorkle, especially at the higher altitudes of the local canyons. Switched back to stock config and it went back to normal running. Once I got a pipe that would flow more than the stock I was able to open my intake back up again. After checking your jetting (if you are not certain it's stock) and adjusting your a/f mixture you may want to get yourself a aftermarket pipe if you really want that intake. | ||
| Mtndude |
Its a little weird- I took it out for a ride to get an oil filter from my local HD dealer and filled it with premium before I scooted down the hill and it ran much better. A slight stall/hesitation around 3800-4200 if I goose it but much better than yesterday on my 200+ mi jaunt up around 7000' with med grade fuel. I'm checking the gasket tonight and seeing whats what. Would welcome a pipe recommendation though. Thanks. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Pipe depends on what you want, I've tried a few and am very happy with the Supertrapp internal disk pipe, it's tune-able and has many options for end caps with a straight through or capped end for better back pressure. And it's stainless so it polished wonderfully and went nicely with my headers. My Vance and Hines held up okay but welds on the baffle had broken so repacking it was a pain. It's more like a straight pipe, power wise, offering little back pressure and a mediocre exhaust note. They are relatively easy to come by on ebay. The Borla slip-on has a rich low tone and is supposed to provide good power. It's a nice looking carbon fiber and polished stainless or chrome can. Someone on the board has one he wants to replace, keep your eyes open for that, he wanted something louder I'll post a link if I can find his thread again. Borla built a complete system for a while, all stainless, nice sounding, but hard to come by. Stain Tune also listed a pipe in their catalog for the Buells back in the tuber days, I imagine they'd be very difficult to find. The White Brothers E-series is nice, also a disk pipe but exhausts directly out the back with the disks on the end. So it left me choking on my exhaust fumes at every stop light and gave me a hot foot on the freeway, a deflector they sold for it helped a bit with the heat but not the fumes. Also got a lot of carbon building up on the bottom of the bike near the exhaust outlet. Nice power from it though, and a nice sound. There's the Force complete pipe, many say it's loud, I don't like loud so have avoided it. But it's supposed to provide nice power. It also has been reported on the board to develop stress fractures by several members. D & D is another popular pipe that looks very solid, but again is reputed to be loud. It's also heavy, but then it won't rattle to pieces like the V & H and make you look for a replacement in a few years either... That's all I've got at the moment, there's a few pipes I've missed, the factory race system is nice, if you find one of those you'd be doing well. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
You should always run 91 octane or better to avoid pinging as well, especially in a potentially lean mixture with your new intake and altitude. Don't ruin your motor over $.10 per gallon difference in fuel. | ||
| Buell_bert |
I guess I have always ran Premium gas in mine. Around here in Visconsin der doncha know most gas besides Premium has ethanol added and yea it is .20 cents more here. I actually use it in all my bikes, the boat, 4wheeler and even the lawn mower. It may help to stay consistent. OH and I'm at 650 ft. above sea level and it does not vary much here at home but I also did not notice any real difference riding around Sturgis last year but I never pushed it (to much traffic) and Spearfish Canyon is less than 7000 ft. Good Luck though. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
James, sorry, went off on a bit of a tangent with Mtndude. The vent bowl seems to be on later editions not the early ones. You never stated whether it was open or just drilled. I can add a pic of what it should look like. Did you go to a leaner jetting then? When you do you should shim the needle and adjust your a/f mixture screw. My bike is a bit surgey at the rpm's you've indicated, and most have said shimming the needle will resolve that. Regarding the timing, it is possible it could drift if the hardware securing it was not snug. You'd have to drill out the rivets holding the timing plate cover on to adjust your timing. Buellistic can prolly advise you on methods for that if he has not already. | ||
| Captainkirk |
You say "stock" spark plugs...you mean the original 6R12's or the upgrade to 10R12's? With Thunderstorm heads you should be running the 10's. There is a service bulletin in the KV regarding this...... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B029-263576.pdf | ||
| Koz5150 |
For less the $150 you can have the bike dyno tuned. Quick easy good fix. I did it and they did a great job at Appleton Harley. |
