| Author | Message | ||
     Hustler_s2t |
First issue I'm having is after the bike is warmed up, I hear a rattle similar to detonation on take off. It doesn't happen if I accelerate verrry slowly from a stop, or if I slip the clutch and apply excessive throttle/rpm while taking off. Its just there under normal take off procedures, and can be made worse by letting out on the clutch all the way and applying more throttle. This doesn't happen when the bike is first started, and has happened to a greater intensity than it used to I think because its now like 95 degrees here and its making things even hotter. When it makes the rattle sound it will continue to do so until a little under 2,000 RPM. It doesn't ONLY happen on take off but thats the main time I can hear it. I can also make it happen in any gear by running the rpms low and applying throttle. I've read on this forum to not run the EVO engine below 2,000 but I did run it right around there just for this testing purpose and if its just a little below this rpm, I can make the rattle sound by applying throttle. Again it clears up and sounds like a 'normal' buell (in all of its mechanical noise glory). Again this makes me think detonation but not sure. I always run premium and use the recommended spark plugs that were the updated number (cant remember it exactly but mine have a 12 in the part number and the old style had a 6). They are very new. K&N air filter is fresh. The bike has 13,xxx miles on it. Any ideas on what to check for this? Anything common that goes wrong to cause this? SECOND issue I've been noticing is that shifting into third has become not as smooth as any other gear. It seems to click twice into gear instead of every other gear you feel just the first click or engagement or whatever you want to call that feel. It never grinds or wont go into gear it just feels like it takes more effort for this 1 than any other. Is this maybe normal or something I should monitor more closely? Thanks guys for any tips. Brad | ||
| Sportyeric |
The S2 came stock with old-school stock Sportster heads and are prone to detonation or pinging. Its definitely hard on the engine and should be addressed. Use the highest test gas you can get. Back off the timing. My timing procedure is to set it to ping on 87 octane, then run 94. | ||
| Langperf |
I know exactly the sound you're talking about. My guess is it's preignition not actually detonation. I cured mine of this years ago with proper jetting. Sounds like you have a real lean spot right off idle. Probably a bigger pilot jet and or raising the needle a little bit would cure it. You'll have to experiment with it. I cant help you with the tranny issue, mine doesnt seem to do that | ||
| Sportyeric |
Sorry. Good point about the jetting. There is an idle mixture adjustment screw, hidden by a tin cap at the factory, that starts that process. There is a weakness in the shifter mechanism where the pins back out of the shifter drum. They can be knocked back into place or the drum up-graded to a Baker unit. Its been addressed before in the Knowledge Vault. Poke around here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/search.cgi That didn't work. Go to the search function and search "pins" in the Knowledge Vault section. (Message edited by Sportyeric on August 13, 2010) (Message edited by Sportyeric on August 13, 2010) | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Alright guys thanks for the info. I'll search into the pins posts too. Another thing and I'm SURE it's not helping my noise... I just replaced my intake seals and they are not totally sealing. I caN spray carb cleaner around my intake/ head mating area and the motor idles down so that's no good. I've put maybe 200 miles on the seals, do you think they 'took a set' yet and are now mis shapen so that I can't just try re Aligning everything or probably ok to try? | ||
| Langperf |
I guess the best way would be to take the seals back out and visually inspect them ...if they look ok try and reuse them. Another tip...if you get sloppy spraying the the contact cleaner around that area especially on a hot motor the vapors and mist will actually get pulled in thru the carb and cause your idle to drop depending on the air filter set up you have. I actually made a large cardboard baffle/shield to eliminate this. It doesnt take much of that vapor at idle to make your rpm's drop | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Use Sylglide on the intake seals when you install them... | ||
| Devil_car |
+1 on Langperf's advice. Make sure you're not assuming you have a leak when in fact the carb cleaner vapors are being ingested at the carb. I've made this mistake before.  And I believe I know the sound that you are referring to when starting. For me, I used to have a similar issue when riding in hot weather... once I rejetted the carb, the issue seems to have gone away. My issue was likely related to preignition, as the engine temperatures were high, and the carb was WAY too lean. (Message edited by Devil_car on August 16, 2010) | ||
| Hustler_s2t |
Thanks for the tip on sylglide and also on the carb jetting. Also I'm pretty sure it's not the vapors being pulled over to the air filter but again, ya never know! I'll try the test again and see if I can make it happen again. Brad |
