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Archive through September 06, 2010Ztferrari30 09-06-10  09:40 pm
         

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F_skinner
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's where the ground strap ties to the frame?

Yes, the ground strap not the neg from the battery. The neg from the battery goes just where you described it. The back mount of the regulator...
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Easy_rider
Posted on Wednesday, September 08, 2010 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let's just say I'm glad we had this talk. I'd have had the neg cable from the battery in the correct position. The ground strap was slated for a questionable destination on the swingarm. I didn't think it looked like it belonged there since swingarms move, but that was about to be my first try. I'd like to think I'd have figured it out, this way is much easier!
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F_skinner
Posted on Wednesday, September 08, 2010 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want I can snap pics of anything you need to know. It helps having a couple to look at....

I have to make a decision soon as I have two projects (soon to be three) and since I have not found a motor for the S2 monster project I may start the restoration soon..
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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Quick question:

What is the best way to prep the frame for painting myself? Seems a wirebrush is too rough and steel wood isnt enough?

I plan on painting it myself considering the mechanical damage is more than I thought and don't have the cash for sandblasting/powdercoating anymore

-Scott
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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

try chemical stripper.

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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm actually waiting for some of that to arrive in the mail. Any tips or tricks to using it?
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Phelan
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't get it on you cuz it burns. The stuff is very messy. Ideally get some baggy clothes that you don't care about, rubber gloves, and a mask, and do it in a well-ventilated open area that can be cleaned up easily. IIRC it takes 15-20 min for the stuff to loosen the PC, then you have to scrape it off or it'll start to harden up again as it dries. Apply it generously. I found that a plastic scraper (the type you do fiberglass repair with) worked well for many areas. After you get it all off, there may be some leftover residue. I'd do a once-over on the frame with some 600-800 grit sandpaper and wash it to prep it for the new PC/paint.
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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Phelan! I'll make sure to wash the leftover down the storm drain (j/k?)
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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 09:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I laid down a thick layer of cardboard when I stripped my swingarm.
It absorbed it pretty well...
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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2010 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

current progress, frame is stripped.


that aircraft stripper is NASTY. i love it! took about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish. got most of it off with a scraper and finished with a coat of stripper followed by a pressure washer.

the cylinders/heads have been dropped off at the machine shop and should have back in 3 weeks. in the mean time I will try to get everything put back together as much as I can.

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Bartimus
Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2010 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zt,
while you have the frame stripped, and before you paint it, you should weld a support on the left side frame to the front motor mount.
Look at the '99 and newer frames, they have a brace there, this will help big time in the handling department.

similiar to this:



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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, January 09, 2011 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It has been a slow process but here is where I am at now






I will be repainting the rims (or powdercoat) once everything is back together. Should be up and running in a few weeks :-)
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Road_thing
Posted on Monday, January 10, 2011 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looking good. You're way ahead of me--I'm still waiting for new engine cases...

rt
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Rick_a
Posted on Monday, January 10, 2011 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The S2's are fine without that brace. The brace was a bandaid for the later tubers due to one of those front engine brace tubes being curved instead of straight.
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1313
Posted on Monday, January 10, 2011 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The S2's are fine without that brace. The brace was a bandaid for the later tubers due to one of those front engine brace tubes being curved instead of straight.

Amen brother! It's the truth, but sadly nobody believes it.

On an S2 that brace is definitely NOT needed!
1313
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, January 10, 2011 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hm.

So...should I move the Banke brace that was on my S2 when I got it, onto my S1W?

You rode the S1W, Brankin...what do you think? (he asks, knowing full well he'd rather not know Brankin was riding the bike hard enough to diagnose "this needs a brace", LOL)
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Blks1l
Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2011 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So which frame tube is the weak link on the newer bikes, that caused them to add the tube?
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Court
Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2011 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>So...should I move the Banke brace that was on my S2 when I got it, onto my S1W?

Yes.

Unless you just like the cosmetics of it . . . Brankin was right in the thick of this design.
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Rick_a
Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2011 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

So which frame tube is the weak link on the newer bikes, that caused them to add the tube?



The right side tube has a big kink in it.

It's interesting how each generation of tuber frame got more kinky as they went along.

Here an earlier, less kinked frame.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2011 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well. I will just have to check the cosmetics of the S2 frame where the brace mounted, once I take it off, and see how scarred up it is underneath the brace clamp....
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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This may be completely wrong, but that lower arm for the uni-planar link that we are discussing bracing seems it does not serve much structural purpose other than to take the forces from the "sideways" motor vibrations.

Am I correct? That is why I didnt brace it, the triangular tube portion seemed stiff enough.
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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, January 16, 2011 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And to everyone:

I apologize about not being active...I have a real job now. It's amazing how valuable my free time is now that im not a student :-(
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Ztferrari
Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)





Just in time for riding season! Thanks for all the help.

Looking back - I wish I would have powdercoated the frame instead of paint/clearcoat. Lesson learned, next time I will do it right
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Ebutch
Posted on Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 11:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very helpful Scott!!!I will soon be rebuilding my S2T.I will keep color it it really gives Duc owners a stiff-neck!!!!
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F_skinner
Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 08:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ztferrari , its looking pretty good.

Butch, your bike always looks great. When you start the re0build I am interested to see a lot of pictures.
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