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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through July 24, 2010 » Old style Supertrapp: re-pack/disassembly « Previous Next »

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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have pulled off all the discs and removed the two short bolts that appear to hold the end plate in (the part that the disc screws thread into, that covers the donut between the perf core and the outer case, hiding the packing material).
I don't want to break anything by forcing it - but it is stubborn and won't budge. Is there a step I am missing, or is it ok to use more force to pull the piece out of there?

Has anyone else re-packed an old Supertrapp?
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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here's the area I'm asking about:

supertrapp
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46champ
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

STOP There is no packing material in a Super Trap exhaust the only sound deadening devices in the muffler are the discs. You very the sound by adding or subtracting discs and the type of end plate on the stack.
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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hold on there - what is the blackened packing material i see behind the perforated core (sort of visible in photo)? This is what I just found on the Supertrapp web site forum, regarding re-packing. I'm going to give it a try now:
"The core assembly can be removed by removing the muffler from the bike. Remove the buttonhead screw(s) on the outside of the body and then working from inlet end with a wooden dowl (broom handle) knock the core out the exit end.
A lot of patience and PB Blaster (penetrating oil) is are good things to have on hand."
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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

More quotes from the same web forum post, via the Supertrapp web site:
"We suggest pulling the core at 7-10k miles just to check. At that point the packing may look like brand new or may need servicing. Riding style can play a big part in the lifetime of your packing.
At 35k, you most likely need repacking.
We have different styles of packing for different mufflers. If you provide a part number from the muffler body, I can tell you exactly what you need."
Here is the link to that web forum page: http://forums.supertrapp.com/showthread.php?t=122& highlight=repack
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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Of course, all this is well and good in words, but if you look down the inlet end of the Supertrapp, there's nothing but a smooth transition between pipe and core - nothing to bang that dowel/broomstick against, except the side walls of the (surely fragile) perforated core. Anyone else ever try this?
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Loki
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I dunno. I repack my old style 'Trapp once a year. On second thought both of them get done.
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Loki
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The discs set-up back pressure levels for tuning. With an open end cap they a kinda a mute point.

My S1 has a "snuffer" cap while the RS has the closed end cap.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Champ, you are incorrect.
There is packing inside. The two bolts on the left side are what hold the core in the muffler. Just pull hard, you will probably have to twist a bit while pulling but it will come apart.
When you reassemble, make sure to put "copper" antisieze on the threads of the disc hold down bolts.

(I've repacked my old S2 muffler in the past, it didn't really change much..)
Brad
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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So, Loki, how do you get the core out for the re-packing? I'm looking at it this evening, but any help is welcome.
Overlapping posts: thanks, Brad.

(Message edited by fahren on July 11, 2010)
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Sloppy
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Not sure if it's on your style or not, but my Supertrapp had a screw midway in the muffler that held the packing core in place. Look for a button head screw half way between the inlet and outlet of the muffler.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

1. heat.

2. I use a penetrant from BG called In-Force. Awesome stuff, goes on nearly like a gel. Makes WD40 and PB Blaster look like salt water.

Spray the edge of the donut, where it meets the outer shell, with your penetrant. Let it sit overnight, and try it again. If no good, get one of those Ronson plumbing torches and heat the inside of the muffler along that same seam, and that should help break it free.
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Fahren
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thank you all jedi masters for proper instruction in use of The Force. I will report back.
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Loki
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I made a plate(aluminum) that fits in place of the discs. Then run a short broom handle in thru the inlet end. A few light bumps on the bench and it pops free. Clean the core on the exit end and the can where they meet to remove any carbon/rust build up.

Copper anti=seize is your best friend, just messy and what ever it touches..... it stays there
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 02:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Is yours the megaphone style with a curved head pipe that attaches to the exhaust headers like this?

If so, just remove the external screws from the megaphone and rig up a bracket of some sort to the six screw end plate area and tap/pound out the inner core away from the megaphone. It should separate and reveal the inner core that may need repacking with ordinary race muffler fiberglass material.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

or if you want to go a while before the next repack, use steel wool...
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Sleez
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

if you want to go quite awhile, use fireplace rope!!!

like this; this was on a race pipe, but should work on the trapp



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46champ
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Dam wrong again.
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Triman023
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just repacked my Supertrapp. I ordered the kit for $18, seems a bit overpriced for a bag of fiberglass. I upended the can onto a piece of soft wood and gave it a tap on the other end with a rubber hammer, the core popped right out. Removed the old packing and wrapped the new stuff around the core. I used two strips of masking tape to hold it together. Muffler sounds much better, deeper sound and no blatty noise.
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Rich
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Stainlees steel wool works great. That's what I'm gonna use if my core ever wears out.

Probably won't as I took it out and replaced it with a piece of aluminum to hold the plates in '92. Still looks good.
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Loki
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would like to get the ceramic fiber that Stainless Specialties uses.

As a side note. Both my 'Trapps do not have elbows.

(Message edited by Loki on July 12, 2010)
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Fahren
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Pix to prove the 'Trapp comes apart:

trapp core


The core wrap is strange: fiberglass type inner, wrapped with a textile outer wrap. Not the original stuff, but I would expect that after some 50,000 miles. I'm going to wrap the core with fiberglass rope, per Sleez, and basalt fiber mat outside of that. A forever solution. Gerry at Supertrapp has been great - amazing support for a 14 year-old pipe.

Gerry notes that any wrap should be "snug, but not too tight" for best sound absorption. And since I definitely do not need the Supertrapp to be any louder, I'm going to hope the rope and basalt mat combo does the trick to mellow it out.

(Message edited by fahren on July 13, 2010)
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