| Author | Message | ||
     Orman1649 |
I have had a small exhaust leak on my rear cylinder since I bought my S1W and finally got some time to fix the problem. As I was taking the exhaust apart, I found it a bit odd that I had hex head bolts on the back but the usual studs up front. I decided to toss some new studs all around since I was taking everything apart anyhow. Got all the new studs in, things are going great and I go to put the flange over the rear studs and it won't fit....I pull it back and take a look at both flanges, they both look fine so I look at the studs. Not even close...which is probably why the previous owner had put the bolts in. From what I can tell, the top one is whacked out and at a slight down & rear angle instead of being perpendicular to the head. My only guess is they broke off a stud and just eyeballed it instead of getting a Jim's Tool. So my question is...what the crap am I supposed to do? I can't just try to redrill/helicoil it or I'll have some weird shaped wobbly hole that I can only imagine will last about 5 miles before a new stud would rattle out. I was thinking of maybe running a stud or bolt in and cutting/snapping it off to get back to square one then drilling/helicoiling it properly with a Jim's Tool....Any suggestions? Am I on the right track, have I totally lost my mind, or am I just plain screwed?? Help is much appreciated Steve | ||
| Preybird1 |
You are going to have to take the head off and have it fixed the right way. There is not enough room to do the repairs on the bike. The front is another story. You could take the flange and waller the mounting holes bigger. It will work to get you by but it is not a permanent solution. I have up-sized the studs on my heads. I got sick of snapping the studs like pretzel sticks. So i got a new D&D exhaust system and bigger studs and i had the flanges enlarged for the bigger studs.      I had some huge 10mm studs put in with thread pitch of 10x125mm The soft stock studs a garbage and i will never use stock parts again. | ||
| Orman1649 |
What is considered the "right way"? With the way the hole is misdrilled, I don't think hogging it out and putting a larger stud in there would work. | ||
| Guell |
I'd remove the head, Have a shop weld it drill it and retap it | ||
| Buellistic |
HELP "INFO" if you request it, e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net) and copies are yours ... | ||
| Orman1649 |
I guess I'll have to get ahold of a welding shop. I didn't think someone could weld a hole that deep. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Send the head here. http://www.cycle-rama.com/index.html They do awesome work from what everyone says here on BW about them. Ask oldog he had his work done there. I don't know if they are a sponsor. (Message edited by preybird1 on May 08, 2010) | ||
| Buellistic |
They are !!! | ||
| Orman1649 |
Thanks for the help guys. Using one of Buellistic's suggestions I elongated the hole in the flange and it looks like I'll be ok without really getting in there and taking stuff apart. Now I need to figure out how to get the front support kit I got from American Sport Bike mounted up. The mount is offset to the left (when looking from the front) about an inch or so from where I think the header seems most comfortable. I'm thinking getting longer bolts or ready-rod (all-thread or threaded rod, w/e you want to call it) and figuring out some sort of spacer to get things aligned. | ||
| Buellistic |
Post a picture of support kit install instructions ... Lets "GET'rrrrr Done !!!" | ||
| Orman1649 |
It's this one.  http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17036.html I have the race header & muffler though. I thought I had seen other peoples bikes with the race header and the support kit was installed exactly as shown in the above picture. My header seems to want to be "comfortable" offset to the shifter side. When I attempt to mount it similar to the picture, it puts some stress on the header. Maybe my header is tweaked? I tried some gentle prying but with the other issues I have had, I didn't want to go too insane. I picked up a couple 10inch bolts that I was going to play with and see how things lined up but I'm going to have to go pick up some threaded rod for the top bolt as the case is in the way. I think my plan for tomorrow is to dig up one of my laser levels to see if I can get a better idea of where the centerline of the muffler is so I can see where the header *should* be to make sure I'm more or less lined up...unless someone tells me I'm crazy or comes up with another "hey stupid, you are over thinking it" suggestion. | ||
| Buellistic |
This is the fun of straying from the OEM set up ... You will just have to improvise the mounting so with the header on finger tight, the exhaust system hangs from the front/and rear muffler mounts un-stressed(mounting holes line up) ... Not exactly knowing what you set up is with out pictures, ie: longer bolts and spacers for alignment ... (Message edited by buellistic on May 09, 2010) | ||
| Orman1649 |
Well…..I am still having exhaust issues. I took everything apart again and took some time to just peek around trying to figure out what my problems are and what I can do about them. I took some pictures but some they aren't the best….it was late and I was getting tired. I have tried to put stuff together both from the top down and bottom up but something is just off. I am convinced there is an issue with the header and am looking for opinions & suggestions. This first one is the flange attached to the rear cylinder. Only thing you can really see here is how much of a pain in the ass it is to tighten the top nut since the stud isnt at the right angle. I can't fit a socket on it.  This next one is a shot of the front cylinder. The rear is still connected and it's forcing the pipe about 1/2 inch forward. I can squeeze the pipe in and get all 4 nuts on there but when I do, it throws the bottom end out of whack. I couldn't get a really good picture.  These next few pics are of the bottom end with various views of the header and muffler as well as the mount I bought in an attempt to keep the muffler from rattling itself to piece again. The poor thing is about dead. When I got the bike the rear end cap had nearly rattled itself off the can. Most of the rivet holes had been stretched all the way to the end of the can. One of the rear mounting ears was completely broken off and another was cracked and waiting to let go. The pipe on the front cap was cracked about half way around with a couple cracks heading outward. The end of the can was also cracked about 3/4 the way around making it a complete deathtrap to ride. There was also a hole worn almost all the way through where the primary chain tensioner had been rubbing. You can see here how I have tried to space the frount mount over. This is roughly where the header wants to lay when both flanges are connected.   I tried to show here how far over to the shifter side of the bike the exhaust is.   Where the muffler was rubbing  These next two show that the header was rubbing on the motor. The header doesn't really look too bad. There are some good rub marks but I think it's OK. I'm not sure how much space there should be between the header & motor but I have to assume there are big time issues somewhere if they ever touch.   This is just a shot of the side of the bike.  Once I got the flange to fit I thought I was home free and was getting really excited to take it out for a spin….now I'm just pissed off and frustrated thinking I got royally screwed when I bought the bike. (Message edited by orman1649 on May 11, 2010) | ||
| Preybird1 |
I would get a new header and get the head that has the problem fixed. If the studs are off-out of line it will screw the whole deal. I would not even run the bike the way that is. You will only snap the stud off in the head which is more of a headache. Get the one head corrected and check your header fitment again. Otherwise you need a new header and stud repairs. If you are good you can helicoil it. I have done it once on my head before it was repaired. It can also be repaired with a sleeve on the stud. Sleeving needs to done by a pro! | ||
| Orman1649 |
I didn't know the extent of how screwed up stuff was until I started tearing into it. I originally thought it was just an exhaust leak that could be fixed with a simple gasket replacement. I havn't ridden the bike since I took it apart and found the stud problems. I plan on doing a "real" repair of the stud at some point but right now I'm trying to figure out what is up with the alignment of everything else. From what I can tell, the stud I had problems with previously is no longer causing any issues since I elongated the holes in the flange. For those who have removed and reinstalled their header, how easy was it? Did both ends mate up to the exhaust ports easily I.E. not 1/2 inch off as shown in the above picture. I have never had this many issues working on a car. As for acquiring new stuff….I'm working on it. I would prefer to replace my race setup with another race setup and have been in contact with a fellow Badwebber. | ||
| Cyclonemick |
Even if you elongated the stud, If it is still not straight I'm afraid you will always have an alignment problem! I would seriously get head fixed, Then I bet you will have no problem mounting your exhaust system! I have had mine off a few times over the years and never have had any problems! Good Luck! | ||
| Orman1649 |
I elongated the hole in the flange so the flange would fit and not force the header off in some weird direction. The only real problem with the way I "fixed" the stud issue is that I can't get a socket on the nut. I think the whole exhaust system was bandaided together when I bought the bike. | ||
| Kmbuell |
St Paul HD has a new header for a very reasonable price. It doesn't look like yours is bent, but it sure looks cobbled together. I agree, fix the head first. It may seem like with the slotting it will be OK, but it looks like it's still putting some odd side pressure on it. Is there anybody local you could borrow a header from to check the fit? Yours looks to have been welded and the threaded rod holding the front mount on is really bogus. This one looks a bit abused, but it's most definitely save able. Think it through, loosen everything up, (after fixing the head) and start from the engine back. Rear cylinder, front cylinder, front header support, then the muffler hangers. Make sure everything is right before tightening anything. It'll be OK, and worth it! Kevin |
