| Author | Message | ||
     Snowbees |
when fitting new inlet manifold seals on an x1 would it be better to lube them first with something like petroleum jelly/ silicon spray | ||
| Jramsey |
I've always installed dry, never had any problems. | ||
| Buellistic |
Silicon spray has worked for me !!! TORQUE'ing the manifold bolts works for me also !!! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Silglyde form Napa. Just did another set yesterday.. I've used it for years and never had any issues. In fact, they seem to last longer. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
i use the silglyde when i do em like Bluzm2 said, works great for me but i do know of a couple shops around my area that don't use anything at all, dry installs, with no issues. | ||
| Buellistic |
Bluzm2, "i" will have to try SILGLYDE for my next intake seals preventive maintenance up-date ... Any thing to cause the seals to seal the slots where they go is a "PLUS" ... If they last longer that is another "PLUS" ... | ||
| Texastechx1 |
not sure about lasting longer but it does make the process easier for me... little room for error when installing. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Tex, that's one of the reasons I really like the stuff. you can actually move the intake up and down to align the carb. I've done a ton of them dry, I'll keep using the Silglyde. | ||
| Snowbees |
Silglyde it is then, Thanks for the help everyone. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Isn't anything with silicon in it bad for the O2 sensor? | ||
| Buellistic |
Hopefully no one will be that messy for that to become a problem ... | ||
| Preybird1 |
Yes it is bad for the o2 sensor but they are like $12 bucks so it's not a biggie. I used silglyde also. This last time i totally forgot about it and installed it all dry. So far so good. | ||
| Sloppy |
DO NOT USE SILICON SPRAY FOR RUBBER OR PLASTIC PARTS! Yea, I know, don't shout - but after seeing the damage that silicon SPRAY does to rubber components, I want to make sure no one else runs into the same problem. Yea, I also know the can says "good for rubber and plastics". I think the problem is with the solvent or propellent and not the silicon. In other words, install seals dry or if you have the need, use a non-propellant form of silicone (like Armor-All) to protect rubber. | ||
| Buellistic |
"THANKS" Sloppy for the "INFO" ... From now on it will be SILGLYDE for me ... | ||
| Al_lighton |
Use sylglyde. And prior to assembly, polish those seal surfaces a bit. That is an interesting joint. When the jugs heat, they grow taller. Being in a V configuration, they grow away from each other, and more than the manifold grows. Not a huge amount, but enough that EVERY time the engine warms up and cools down, those seals move a little bit. Smooth lubricated surfaces make that movement easier. Dry or gummy seals, like old crusty burnt ones or those that may have been attacked chemically, can impede that motion, and can create leaks. Always check for leaks with water or better, propane. NOT carb cleaner, or starter fluid, or other things that will strip the lube away or attack the seals. Al | ||
| Buell_bert |
It is spelled Sil-Glyde and made by the AGS Company in Muskegon MI. which is also called the American Grease Stick Co. It also has other uses but does state (Harmless to Rubber). |
