| Author | Message | ||
     M2_tuber |
Tomorrow I'm going to tackle the loose starter. After looking at the bike and reading the posts I can find is this what I have to do. Drain oil Remove shifter inspection cover clutch cover primary cover "placing the screws onto copy to keep them straight" line up the clutch so I can get to the bolts on the starter (how many are there holding the starter on?) replace starter gasket put it all back together! is any thread lock required? Can I just tighten up the starter bolts and see how long it holds? and while the cover is off anything I need to do or check on?} | ||
| 4dwuds |
2 Allen head bolts hold the starter on. Locktite wont hurt,as you found out they can loosen up. | ||
| Jim2 |
I just did this job three days ago. So here is what I've learned: Secure bike level and raise the back wheel off the ground. Drain the Primary Oil, clean the metal off of the magnetic drain plug and don't forget to re-install the magnetic drain plug. Yes, only two bolts holding the starter, I used a small dab of blue lock-tight. Make sure your primary-chain adjuster is the updated part that has a much thicker metal plate that supports the nylon shoe piece. Replace with updated part if yours is the old one. Check your main drive nut and make sure it is the updated version. The old one has two funny looking triangular marks on the face of the nut. The updated one looks like a regular nut. The old nut was manufactured wrong and is known to come loose over time. This is a high-torque item and required the primary/clutch locking bar to loosen or tighten or check torque. Replace the O-rings on the clutch cable, primary chain inspect cover, and the bolts that hold the primary chain inspect cover while your doing this. I spread a thin but even layer of Hylomar over cover side of new primary cover gasket to help hold in place and used very front bolt and very back bolt to hold spacers in place and guide the assembly back into place. It wasn't too difficult that way working alone. Install a new shift-shaft seal. I did mine after re-installing the primary cover with new gasket. put tape over shift-shaft to protect the new seal. Use O-ring lube and press into place using a deep well socket of the correct diameter. Mine went on real easy. I had already cleaned-up the corrosion on the shift-shaft using wire brush and then 000 steel wool. Adjust the primary chain tension when finished to the tight spot on primary chain. Most here on Badweb agree that the FSM primary chain adjust values are too tight and result in excessive wear on the bearings, ecetera. You can send me a PM and if you want the procedure to adjust primary chain, I'll send it to you. Check the oil line that runs under the starter while you have it off, if it looks worn on the ends now is a good time to replace it. Part numbers: -Gasket Primary cover : 34955-89A -Gasket Clutch Cover : 25463-94A -O-ring, chain inspect cover: 11188 -O-ring, Inspect cover screws (2) 11171 -Updated Primary chain adjuster assy. 39975-90A -Gasket, starter motor 31488-81C -Sprocket locking link 38362 -shift shaft oil seal 37101-84B -washer, rubber (goes between shift-shaft seal and shifter lever) 7019 - 1 quart (minus 3 oz.) of primary fluid (I used Mobile 1 V-twin synthetic 4 cycle oil 20W-50). Use what you want but be aware that some gear oils have additives that will eat your stator and/or bushing coatings causing stator failure. Make sure you look at the FSM for torque values and use them. (Message edited by jim2 on March 17, 2010) | ||
| M2_tuber |
Sweet info there. Looks like I'm needing a few more gaskets so off to the evil empire to get those. | ||
| M2_tuber |
Success new gaskets no leaks what a sweet feeling  Thanks all you great Buellers for the info and support. If your going to the home coming I close by. I'll have the beer! |
