Author |
Message |
Dulcimerbob
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 08:15 pm: |
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So all the Buell rear brakes are weak ? On purpose it seems. I've read all the posts and I still need reassured. Come on and help a brother out. |
Fasted
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 09:00 pm: |
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if you can't lock up your rear wheel, your brakes need new pads and/or a good bleed to get the air out. since you are new to that bike, changing the brake fluid for fresh probably wouldn't hurt either. search knowledge vault for syringe style brake bleeding by henrik to get started.... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/180731.html |
4dwuds
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 09:00 pm: |
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You got a rear brake ? I thought that right pedal was just to even out the weight on the bike. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Wednesday, March 17, 2010 - 12:37 am: |
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Yes, "weak" on purpose. Fresh Dot4, bleeding, good pads, and I always recommend a braided steel brake line. These together should maximize the factory capability, with the minimal outlay. Changing the rear brake for an upgrade, like American Sport Bike carries, or carried, gets up in the $300 to $400 range, on top of what you just spent, and for how much usage? Better to start cheap, at least at first. You can always add more as money allows. |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 12:23 pm: |
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Changing the pads to sintered helps a good bit but the only way I can (barely) lock up my rear brake is to literally stand on the pedal (I weigh 150lbs). It does however do a decent job slowing the bike down as I approach a red light or a stop sign. With my old Honda I could lock up the rear brake at will but I definitely prefer the Buell way. Lesser chance of getting into trouble specially in a panic mode. YMMV. |
Beachbuell
| Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 03:33 pm: |
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My brakes are rock solid, front and rear. I installed a new Braking rotor and new pads up front. I also flushed my entire brake system front and rear. This was all done about two years ago and is still solid!
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Littlebuggles
| Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 08:00 pm: |
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Dulcimerbob, Fasted, and Jayvee and Beach have all said what there is to say. Start cheap with bleed/flush, pads and braided line, you'll certainly get better feel from those changes. Mine's waiting for a rebuild and the Lyndal Gold pads I got a month or two ago from a.s.b. |
Davefl
| Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 08:13 am: |
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"Yes, "weak" on purpose. Fresh Dot4,bleeding, good pads I would hold off on the Dot 4. My 99 buells use Dot 5.. do not mix the stuff, good things will not follow. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 12:29 pm: |
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Oops sorry! I just assumed all Cyclones were the same. Dulcimer Bob's profile said '97 Cyclone, but I have a 2000. My bad, to assume. Change to: "Factory recommended brake fluid" ! |
Dulcimerbob
| Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 12:08 pm: |
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Did new pads and bleed dot 5 and now I have brakes , sort of . but way better. Thanks |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 12:43 pm: |
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That's good news, "sort of" is pretty good actually. Cost wise and working with what you've got a careful rebuild of the caliper and master cylinder plus stainless line plus those braking wave rotors will take it another step or two up from there. Someone here "blueprinted" his rear brake and said it worked great, but that is also a relative term since some of us like more rear brake than others. It was one of our long term members, Bomber or Reepicheep I believe (I could be wrong on the name but I'm pretty sure it was one of those dudes). |
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