| Author | Message | ||
     Jayvee |
Since this is listed under a Yamaha Road Star, somebody looking for Cyclone fork springs might miss it. At the time I post this, the price is $25, plus $10 shipping. That's a deal! The Race Tech site says the 1.0 rate is for 180 pounds+ Racing use, and 238 pounds+ for street use. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=150413798028&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK %3AMEWAX%3AIT | ||
| Duceater |
ah man. I wish I had seen this. They didn't even sell. 25 bucks for that would have been awesome. I looked on RaceTech's site and compared it to the PN on ebay and it looks like its a number off. FRSPS373210 (from ebay) FRSPS3732100 (closest I found on RT site) Maybe a typo? Eric | ||
| Duceater |
Jayvee, thanks for the tip. I emailed the guy and he still had them, so I picked them up. That was a steal!!! Now I have a question for those who have done this, (yes I have a service manual on the way, but I'm not sure if it would cover this), should I change out my fork oil since I'm going to a heavier spring? | ||
| Jayvee |
No question about replacing it with new. Better question is whether to change the level. How do you like your compression damping now? Add more for more, less for less. Still keeping within the MIN/MAX spec, of course. Maybe better to try same amount first? It's going to feel different with new springs anyway. I think the instructions say stiffer springs take up more space, and to start with a very small amount less, I forget how much less, like a teaspoon. | ||
| Duceater |
great! Thanks for the tip. I'll let you know what happens. I expect to get the springs sometime next week. Eric | ||
| Jayvee |
I want to know what spacer length you use. I'm short of help, to get the length right, measuring sag and all that. | ||
| Duceater |
I'll let you know when I know... Ha! In the mean time if anyone has any suggestions, they would be appreciated. Eric | ||
| Duceater |
I haven't gotten around to installing the springs yet, but have a couple questions that maybe I should ask before... I went to RaceTech's site and found that my bike's stock spring rate is .943 kg/mm. I put in my weight (190 lbs) and it said that I would be better off with a spring with .901 kg/mm. The springs that I got are 1.0 kg/mm and here is my logic. Please let me know if I'm on crack: When I hit large bumps, it feels like my rear end jumps a little. Does it make sense that if my front suspension is too soft, it is compressing too much over large bumps and the rear isn't working the way it should be (ie the weight is shifting to far forward on the bike)? In that case, maybe the stiffer springs will give me what i want. I have a Works shock on the rear that was setup for me, and I have the front end preload showing only 1 ring, while the dampening is at factory spec. I'm pretty sure that I still have some work to do in regard to tuning, but is the problem I'm experiencing a front preload issue? I'm not sure what other questions to ask to figure this out, so lets start there. Thanks!! | ||
| Duceater |
okay, I need to clarify something. I have a 99 M2. Race Tech doesn't list a 1999, they skip over this year, so I assumed that a 1998 would be the same, but I was wrong. They say that the stock rate for a 1998 is .942 kg/mm, but a 2000 is .730 kg/mm. now I'm all screwed up. Does anyone know what the spring rate is for the 1999? I don't remember seeing it in the manual, but I could have missed it. Eric | ||
| Kalali |
There is one thing I don't understand. For X1 (99-02) they show stock rate of .75kg/mm. If you use their calculator that rate corresponds to someone who weighs around 90lbs. Does that make sense to anyone? One other question. I've got 17K miles on my X1 and the fork travel is a bit longer than it should/used to be. How would I know if I need to change the springs or just the oil to "tighten up" the front suspension? Thanks. | ||
| Kalali |
Oh, and I apologize for hijack. Just wanted to get some clarification. | ||
| 46champ |
Kalali I think your comparing apples to oranges the M2 uses a conventional fork where as your X1 uses an upside down fork. The spring rates don't have anything to do with each other. | ||
| Duceater |
Does anyone know the answer to what I'm asking? I went to RaceTech's site and found that my bike's stock spring rate is .943 kg/mm. I put in my weight (190 lbs) and it said that I would be better off with a spring with .901 kg/mm. The springs that I got are 1.0 kg/mm and here is my logic. Please let me know if I'm on crack: When I hit large bumps, it feels like my rear end jumps a little. Does it make sense that if my front suspension is too soft, it is compressing too much over large bumps and the rear isn't working the way it should be (ie the weight is shifting to far forward on the bike)? In that case, maybe the stiffer springs will give me what i want. I have a Works shock on the rear that was setup for me, and I have the front end preload showing only 1 ring, while the dampening is at factory spec. I'm pretty sure that I still have some work to do in regard to tuning, but is the problem I'm experiencing a front preload issue? I'm not sure what other questions to ask to figure this out, so lets start there. I have a 99 M2. Race Tech doesn't list a 1999, they skip over this year, so I assumed that a 1998 would be the same, but I was wrong. They say that the stock rate for a 1998 is .942 kg/mm, but a 2000 is .730 kg/mm. now I'm all screwed up. Does anyone know what the spring rate is for the 1999? I don't remember seeing it in the manual, but I could have missed it. Thanks!!! | ||
| Jayvee |
Don't know the stock, but I would bet it's the same as 2000, on account of '99 is the "break point" where they went to fat tank, big seat, aluminum swing arm, etc. The most changes happened between 98 and 99. But I do have a question, your intended use, is it more STREET, or RACING ? For Racing use, the spring you got should be good, regardless of what the stock spring is. If it's more Street, gives you a good excuse to gain some weight? I do have a 'surplus' NIB .90 spring kit, you could buy it for what I paid for it, as I recall, a little over half of retail. | ||
| Duceater |
Thanks for the reply Jayvee! I will be using the bike on the street and don't plan of gaining weight. But who does (haha)? Do you think that a 1.0 will make the ride too harsh? Do you think that my rear end is hopping because the front springs are too soft? Maybe I just need to experiment and make sure that my preload is set correctly first. I'm pretty sure its close. I'll let you know what I find as soon as I can do it. In the mean time, does anyone know if soft springs (not enough preload) in the front could cause the rear of the bike to hop? Maybe I don't have enough dampening in the rear (rebound)... (Message edited by Duceater on March 24, 2010) | ||
| Jayvee |
They do work together, the front and back, so soft springs in front could be combining with too heavy compression damping for the upward portion of your 'hop'. The downward movement of your 'hop' is the rebound damping, and that is likely a bit light too. I think at your current weight, the 1.0 spring is a bit on the hard side. In my original post, I put the rider weights suggested by the Race Tech web site. You're probably closer to a Street spring weight of .90 based on the RaceTech calculator. You say the Works shock was "set up" for you, was that in person, or you just ordered it for your weight, or what? Have you tinkered with it's settings at all vis a vis this hop you describe? If it's the rear end that hops, I would start at the rear end to address it, regardless of the fork springs. (Message edited by jayvee on March 28, 2010) (Message edited by jayvee on March 28, 2010) | ||
| Duceater |
I ordered the Works shock for my weight range. It wasn't setup in person. I do need to tinker a little with it. I (hop)e that will help some. I'm planning on holding off on putting the new springs in until I can definitively say that the fronts are too light. Unfortunately, the last time I rode my primary cover gasket went south, and I'm waiting for the new gasket and adjuster shoe to come in so that I can fix that and not drain primary oil all over my exhaust and rear tire  Hopefully the parts will be in my hands by the end of the week. thanks for the help!!! | ||
| Duceater |
I finally got around to installing the new springs into my forks and replaced the fork oil. My forks feel sublime now, compared to the lighter springs and spent oil that I used to have. I'm guessing that I had the lighter of the 2 springs that could have been in my bike (.730 kg/mm). In playing with my dampening, I feel that it needs to be increased some from stock settings. After I ride the new springs for a while, and get used to how they feel, I think that I might try a heavier oil before I decide to upgrade the valves (which is out of budget for this year ... I have the Type E HD oil in them now. What would be the next heavier oil? Does HD have a heavier oil (I'm sure they do for there battleship sized cruisers), or should I go to another brand? | ||
| Jayvee |
I would guess the brand doesn't matter. There's increments of 5. But you can also just increase the oil amount a little to get a similar effect of heavier oil. Gotta stay under the factory maximum of course. What spacer length did you wind up with? | ||
| Duceater |
Thanks for the tip Jayvee. I filled it to the factory spec of 4.25" without the springs installed. Was that the correct way to do it? or did I need the springs in the tubes for the measurement. That would make it much more difficult. If I read correctly I think that I'm right. I think that the max is around 3.25". I'll something around that. Even thought the dampening seems to be okay, I'd like to have more of a range of dampening. Re: the spacer length... Let me know if my logic makes sense. The new springs were a little longer, so I went a little shorter on the spacers. To make sure that the length of the new springs and spacers matched that of the old springs and spacers, I measured the old and performed some arithmetic to come out with my new spacer length. I was predicting that there was going to be a dramatic difference (stiffness-wise) between the old and the new spring rates, I took another 1/4" off the new spacers. I did this so that I'd have more of a chance of getting the correct preload without having to back my preload adjusters out a ton. Turns out, taking off 1/4" made it so that I had to back my adjusters out only 2 rings. Not bad I thought, I expected to have to back them out more. Comments? |
