| Author | Message | ||
     The4ork |
got my heads and cylinders in the mail today. monday i ordered all the cometic gaskets i'll need as well as the engine mount adapter (havent received yet, hopeful for tomorrow) im also in the middle of an engine swap on my VW so im not sure if im going to tackle the head swap just yet, hopefully i'll have the vw done over the weekend. but here are some pics  these are stage3 nrhs heads, im not sure if they were from an xb9 or xb12 but maybe you can tell me just by looking at them.      | ||
| Brinnutz |
Heads for a 12 and 9 are the same. So are the cylinders. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
nice!!! What's up with the silver dollar in the center of the piston? Is that a stock piston? | ||
| Oldog |
whos heads? got docs? | ||
| The4ork |
no documentation unfortunately  this is what i know about the heads: These are a used set of Nalin stage 3 heads.They cost over 1200 when I had them done .They came of a xb 12.The specs on these heads are 1.9 intake valves.1.615 exhaust valves.The valve springs are set up for .600 lift (Message edited by the4ork on October 29, 2009) | ||
| Outdoors |
I just picked up a set of XB9 heads on ebay so I'm watching this post with interest. I'm happy with my M2 for now and would likely go 1250 if I upgrade. I will look forward to your review once done. | ||
| Oldog |
I see no tool marks in either of the ports are the clean areas of the squish polished? stock heads are not polished exhaust  intake  chamber  mild to moderate street porting job ( started as repair from left mount bolt ) These are Cyclerama T-storms, the squish was cleaned on these and the chamber polished with the exhaust. replace guides springs and seals, the intake is not polished but as a slightly rough finish, the exhaust is polished Note the word buell is visible on the outlet side (Message edited by oldog on October 30, 2009) | ||
| The4ork |
doesnt look like there is a squish, since the xb heads were used with xb pistons and cylinders | ||
| The4ork |
ok so im hesitant to start this project for one reason... the breather holes... i'd like to do it myself. i have a drill press and know how to tap the hole... the only thing im worried about is how to measure where to drill the holes, what size, and what tap... i'd like to do it all in one afternoon. i called up the guys at nrhs and got everything they said i would need which was a complete top end cometic gasket kit, and the billet engine mount adapter. anyone drill and tap the breather holes themselves? | ||
| Phelan |
Use the old heads as a template of where to drill. Shouldn't be too bad. Also don't forget to get solid bolts for the carb support bracket if you still plan on using the XB rockerboxes that came with your deal. | ||
| The4ork |
ok cool, i was wondering why i was going to need all these breathers... lol (Message edited by the4ork on November 05, 2009) | ||
| The4ork |
hey phelan did you ever get one of those veypors? i think im going to order mine very soon | ||
| Phelan |
Not yet; just a matter of time. I need the funds for everything else on the build first, which is coming up. The bike is getting so much closer to done that I'm chomping at the bit. I'm really excited about the new paint too. I finished the basecoat and second coat today; tomorrow I'll start with the flames and then the clear. | ||
| Brinnutz |
I'm going to do mine once mine are mounted on the motor. Then I'll use the carb bracket to get it right. =) (Message edited by brinnutz on November 05, 2009) | ||
| The4ork |
i was thinking about that too... but i was concerned weather or not i'd have to torque everything down for everything to be in exactly the right place? | ||
| Brinnutz |
Huh? Just build your motor, get the top end torqued and installed. Then, place carb bracket where it should be, mark holes, then drill followed by a tap job. Done! | ||
| The4ork |
man i wish i had some time to do this... ive gotta make a flight plan for my flight instructor, do a bunch of homework, work over the weekend maybe ill get started on it on monday | ||
| The4ork |
got a lead on some almost free xb9 pistons (stock ones) but the question is... should i do it? i run my bike pretty much as a daily driver, but i dont run the CRAP out of it hardly ever, and i usually drive it like a normal person would drive a normal car. | ||
| Phelan |
For one, you have to be careful with the XB9 pistons about which octane gas you get, but you also have to check your valve-to-piston clearance, depending on which cams you are running, because the stock XB9/12 pistons do not have very deep valve pocketsto run high-lift cams. Also, they are cast pistons, which means they are not likely to last as long if things get sticky. What happens when you run out of gas and the closest station only has 87 octane? With a 12:1 CR like you will have with the 9 pistons, don't even think about it. I blew a hole in a piston once and it made a huge mess. Don't repeat it. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Tattoodnscrewd ran xb9 parts in his (S1) motor for a while and got great performance. He said the bottom end had to be re-done, seems like the bike came to him pretty rough if I remember right, and it didn't hold up well under high compression I guess. Perhaps you should ask him about it. He may be lurking, or just staying off the site so maybe PM him for good info. | ||
| Brinnutz |
I say just go with the 12 pistons. That way you aren't putting all that strain on the bottom end... You don't need all that compression when you're not beating the hell out of it or racing it. | ||
| The4ork |
well i finally built up enough balls to tackle this project tonight... and so far i have the tank off, carb out, two left side manifold bolts out... but the two on the right side are both sripped out. one has been replaced from an allen head to a regular bolt, and the allen was pre-stripped (thanks PO) and the bolt is on so tight i cant get a box end on it, and its rounding the head no matter what kind of wrench i use... so quesion: before i go any further can i remove both heads without taking the manifold out? | ||
| Phelan |
If you have the one side off, I don't see why you can't leave the other side in there and pull it off with the head. | ||
| The4ork |
no both sides were connected lol. i was able to fenagle it out of the frame with both heads connected via manifold lol... then was able to pull them apart when i got them on the garage floor  but unfortunately while tapping the wrist pins out i knocked a pushrod clamp into the case... seems i took all of them off but forgot one... ive decided to call it a night after spending aobut 2 hours trying to fish it out. i got it all the way to the top on the first and second attempt but dropped it back in due to lack of grip... now after about 2 hours of fishing, i cant even find it anymore im not sure how the case looks inside but its almost like its fell into a crevice and i cant see it anymore. is there any way to drain the remaining oil in the case? because i cant see the clamp under the oil | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Have you removed the oil pump? That will allow you to drain the rest and get some light in there from another angle too. Good luck, sounds frustrating. | ||
| Guell |
you might want to see about getting a magnet, i have one that is flexible and can go into tight spaces, its saved my ass more times than i can count. | ||
| The4ork |
where is the oil pump and how do i remove it? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Sorry Ricky, that will only drain residual oil from your cam case and if the part dropped into the engine case, draining the cam case won't really help. Follow Guell's advice. (Message edited by littlebuggles on November 12, 2009) | ||
| The4ork |
im pretty sure that the push rod bases are aluminum? | ||
| Skntpig |
Where's the oil pump? Step 1 Get a service manual. You're going to forget something if you don't. |
