| Author | Message | ||
     Scdobber |
Hi,I am glad I found this site.I am quite new to Buells but not to bikes.I bought a 02 M2 Cyclone with 1100 miles.I've always did my own service work and need some tips on changing the oil,I know to warm it prior to the change,do I only drain the oil tank which I have not looked but there should be a plug I'm guessing.Is the crankcase oil and tranny are seperate because I see a drain above a exhaust dip or is this for the oil? What is the oil capacity/type of oil? As far as the valves,these bikes have self adjusting lifters correct? I've got to find a manual on the bike,I see downloads on other models on the web but not on the M2. Thanks!! (Message edited by scdobber on October 24, 2009) | ||
| Captainkirk |
Hi, welcome to the madness! Your oil tank drain is a hose pinned to the frame tube by a bracket by the left rear footpeg...there is a plastic plug in it. Remove the hose clamp and pop the hose free of the plug (stays in the bracket) and oil will begin draining immediately; have a container ready to put the hose in. It drains faster if you pop the oil dipstick. When you fill the oil tank, only add 2 quarts before running; after warm up bring the oil level just above the LOWER FILL LINE, other wise you will overfill and make one hell of a mess. Oil is checked with WARM OIL after running. The plug above the muffler is for the primary fluid (yes, separate from the oil) You are better off pulling the muffle for the fluid change; makes less of a mess, and gives you access to the primary chain adjustment screw, which you should check anyway. Get a factory manual. Ebay is chock full of them. For oil, you can't go wrong with Harley 20W50 for now. You can weigh the pros & cons of synth at great length later (just ask and you'll get a zillion opinions...all different) Yes, the tappets are roller hydraulic and need no adjustment. (Message edited by captainkirk on October 24, 2009) | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Welcome! You will love your M2. My best advice is to buy two books right away: The Buell Factory Service Manual and the Buell Parts Manual for your year. They are available from American Sport Bike, a vendor and web site sponsor, and on eBay. When you get those two books, the rest will be easy. Enjoy your new-to-you Buell! | ||
| Scdobber |
Hey,Thanks for the welcome and the much needed tips.I'm going to search Ebay today for the parts & service manuals. | ||
| Daveswan |
First thing I did when I got mine was get the service manual. THANK GOD, I did that! Then I took one step at a time making sure all of the basics were in order. I soon found that every place the prior, ham-fisted mechanic touched, needed to be re-touched and brought into order. For me bringing it back into shape and learning about every component is half the fun. | ||
| Scdobber |
My service manual should arrive soon,just ordered a parts manual as well.Boy are they cheeeeap!! | ||
| Scdobber |
change the oil warm or cold?? | ||
| Captainkirk |
Warm. Preferably after a ride. Otherwise you'll leave all the sludge trapped in the tank. Plus, it comes out a lot faster! Do not, I repeat; DO NOT overfill. After changing filter, top off the tank to where the oil level just shows above the LOWER line on the dipstick. Warm the engine up, then and only then bring the level up to about mid way between the lines. Do not fill to or above the upper line. Also, don't run the engine with the seat off; air pressure building up in the tank can, and will, blow the dipstick/cap right off and make an oily pig-mess. | ||
| Scdobber |
Glad to know that for sure,I'm also changing the tranny fluid,I bought a qt of Formula+ which should be enough,I know the derby cover has a spring behind it,anything else I should look out for when removing the cover,I figure it's better to ask ahead of time.I was hoping my manual would be here by now but looking at the tracking it will be Monday (Message edited by scdobber on October 29, 2009) | ||
| Captainkirk |
Be careful not to strip the Torx screws. Use valve grinding compound if necessary. | ||
| Scdobber |
kirk,I have some lapping compound in my shop,how should I use it? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Put some on the tip of the torx wrench tip, helps them from camming out of the bolt. Once you get them out, throw them away and replace them with 1/4"-20 x 3/4" stainless steel hex cap screws. The local hardware store has them for about $.50 each. | ||
| Richsm2 |
comet cleanser does the same thing,just dampen the tool ( torx or philps)with light oil. if drained cold much oil may remain in the sump. | ||
| Daveswan |
The previous owner of my bike stripped out most of the torx screws that he touched. Some were literally round inside. I was left with getting them out. Sears has this new type of set :http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009160040 00P?keyword=extractor These worked like a dream! Then I replaced all of the torx screws with stainless allen head cap screws with a liberal amount of blue loctite to help reduce the galvanic action between the aluminum and stainless. | ||
| Scdobber |
I pulled my plugs today,they are quite new but not correct for the bike.The ones that come out are Champion RA8HC and gapped at .024,I went to Napa and got a pair of RA4HC and gapped them to .035,seems to run better.I also checked my airbox,the large rubber seal is coming apart,I taped it on the edges to hold it together,are these airbox gaskets still avaliable? | ||
| Jim2 |
2000 M2 part numbers: SEAL, RUBBER, AIRBOX part# P0559.B-43 $3.15 SEAL, AIR FILTER BOX part# M0720.C-18 $2.03 | ||
| Scdobber |
Under the airbox cover what is the purpose of the two holes near the carb throat in the tube that leads from the filter??  | ||
| Captainkirk |
Noise reduction. That's the whole idea of a Helmholtz...to cut down on intake resonance (and create a still-air source). As for the plugs...did that number match up with the OEM 6R12? Because there was a service notice requiring installation of a different plug.....10R12....which you should be running. See the Knowledge Vault (KV) for a list of all active Service info on your bike. Make sure whatever your plug is, it's the equivalent of the 10R12 and not the 6. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/B029-263576.pdf Did you get the cover screws out? Make sure you have the upgraded primary shoe on your bike, as the old-style springs fracture. This could cause catastrophic failure. (Message edited by captainkirk on October 31, 2009) (Message edited by captainkirk on October 31, 2009) | ||
| Scdobber |
I cannot seem to find out the correct champion plug number for the 10R12 through a web search,everybody seems to have a different number? What's the deal on the upgraded primary shoe? | ||
| Fasted |
old shoe fails, new shoe doesn't check knowledge vault for any questions, as most have been covered. pics and words | ||
| Scdobber |
Was the old shoe design updated sometime in 2001? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes, it got a backplate about twice as thick. Upgrading is a must, or you will find half a backplate wandering around in your tranny (which remarkably, sometimes bound things up but rarely actually broke anything...) | ||
| Reepicheep |
(Oh, you have a 2002, sorry, you probably already have the updated backplate... though I think you are close to the change date. Try calling Buell customer service with VIN in hand and see if they can tell you. In the past they probably could have, now with Harley "helping", who knows...) | ||
| Scdobber |
Thanks for all the much needed help as well as a delay in my response,we had a big atv mud ride today.I had a chance to pull one of the new plugs I put in yesterday before we left on our trip and I'm dissapointed,after a 20 mile trip last night with the new plugs they are as white as snow,looks like they come right out the box.So it is running super lean.I sure hope I'm not fixing more than I'll be riding,I've already spent more than I anticipated and my wife feels the same to but I do like the bike.As far as a visual inspection the plug/cap is still on the mixture screw so it has not been adjusted,by what I can see the bowl screws have not been removed or tampered with if they are as soft as most I've removed from other carbs,If this bike has original miles to be an 02 at 1,160 it has sat quite a while,I do know for a fact a Doctor bought it new and never rode it much but I have yet been able to speak to him about any history oil ect....I think the carburetor is gummed up,maybe I'm wrong.The fuel I drained out the tank 2 days ago had no vapor smell,not stale nor fresh by any means.I don't think they would come from the factory "that" lean,the dealer I bought it from said they did there so called 60 point inspection and said they cleaned the carb which I doubt.Sometime next week I'll pull it off,take off the bowl and pull the jets and see if they cleaned it and check the float level.They will tell you any thing to make a sale.I bought a new leftover 07 400EX this year that sat on the showroom floor for 2 years and had a leaning issue,with no help from Honda's service dept or warranty claims I pulled the bowl and it was full of crap,after cleaning it without any adjustments it now runs like a champ.Man I must be hyped up,I wrote a book!! (Message edited by scdobber on October 31, 2009) | ||
| Captainkirk |
They always come from the factory "that lean"....to meet EPA specs. The fact that the cap is still on shows that nobody's messed with it. Pop that sucker out and richen it up, for cry-yi! As for plugs, if you can't ascertain a match for the 10R12, go to a Harley dealer and pick up a couple....like 3 bucks apiece. Don't worry 'bout the book. We like reading. | ||
| Scdobber |
Will I need to pull the carb & drill the cap out like most? | ||
| Aesquire |
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm Do NOT use their settings. This is just for general Knowledge. The trick on the plug is to only slightly drill in & use a sheetmetal ( or other pointy ) screw to pull it. You don't want to drill the jet beneath. Use the settings from this ( Bad Weather Bikers) site. The Knowledge Vault has multiple cases of the same questions you have, it can be a little tedious to dig through it all, here is one find on a quick look. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/390447.html?1220465130 In short, on Carb jetting, change the idle jet to a 45 or 48 ( depending on altitude & individual bike preference ) and turn the idle adjustment screw ( the one you have to drill the plug out to get to ) out about 2 1/2 turns. That will vastly shorten warm up times & make it run better. Further tuning of Idle jet screw per the Nightrider link above. Also the Idle jet is the one I have to clean out every couple of springs, even with Stabil. It's a small jet and the bike won't idle without choke with it clogged. | ||
| Buellistic |
OIL CHANGE: The stock OEM capacity is 2 1/2 quarts ... If at any time you over fill the oil tank(or system) the engine will PUKE OUT the excess oil until the engine is satisfied with the oil level ... CHECKING OUR OIL LEVEL CLASS 101 available by request, e-mail me ... CARB. jetting: an M2 will run good set up this way ... Timing mark just coming into the rear of the timing plug hole ... Slide hole drilled out, raidous'ed, and keep the M2 needle because it is the best needle ... Remove the accelerator pump system, you do not need it ... Idle mixture screw 2 1/2 turns out from seat, #48 low speed and #200 high speed ... Set idle at 1000 RPM ... OEM heat range spark plugs gapped at 0.030 inch ... ECONO FORCE in a BOX, plug holes in snorkel and put on a K&N RC-3680 tapered oval air filter ... Pictures available upon request, e-mail me ... HOW TO ADJUST YOUR PRIMARY CHAIN AND DRIVE BELT CORRECTLY CLASS 101, available upon request, e-mail me ... "HARLEY-DAVIDSON Motor Company, making MECHANICS and PARTS MEN out of BUELL Rides since THURSDAY 15 OCTOBER 2009 !!!" "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!" (Message edited by buellistic on November 01, 2009) | ||
| Aesquire |
Modern plugs are very hard to read. Mine look like new after a 1000 miles, and I think mine's jetted fine, maybe a bit rich. The only sure way to make jetting perfect is a dyno with an exhaust gas analyzer. But you should have no problem with your experience, using throttle response as your main cue. Buellistic, I'll have to try disconnecting the accelerator pump, that might work good. I hadn't heard that one. Always check oil After a ride. Oil can slide past the check valve in the tank, into the sump. You check before a ride, you freak out that you are low, add oil, and if you warm it up with the seat off, oil can easily hit the ceiling in the garage, along with the cap/dipstick. If you ride away with an over full oil tank, it will come out all over the back tire, frame, road, girl friend's legs.... DAMHIK. ( I don't care if I'm the 12th guy to tell you that, it's good advice.  ) (Message edited by aesquire on November 01, 2009) (Message edited by aesquire on November 01, 2009) | ||
| Daveswan |
I just shimmed my stock needle this morning .050" using 2 #4 brass washers. Just drilled the slide hole 7/64", just shy of 1/8". I already installed the 45 slow jet 2 1/2 turns out, #200 main. My accelerator pump is functioning. Now after shimming the needle the M2 runs perfect, idles, perfect, stab the throttle and it's right there, no popping, sputtering. Smooth as silk throughout the rev range and cruising. I'm not going to go up to a #48 now. | ||
| Captainkirk |
I had a 48 installed on my first CV and it was a bit much. Later went to a Thunderslide CV with a 45..MUCH, much better. Of course, neither one is a pimple on the butt-cheeks of the HSR.....but that's just MY opinion.  |
