Author |
Message |
Is11b1p
| Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 07:41 pm: |
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Whats the best way to bleed the front brakes? Thanks |
Is11b1p
| Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 07:43 pm: |
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seems I can't spell to good.lol |
Dpg
| Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2009 - 11:38 pm: |
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I've used the small canister style brake bleeders for cars with great success. Good when you want to do a complete flush/replacement. I recently picked up one of those vacuum pump bleeders which seemed good to purge the calipers. Auto style is the easiest though. Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown |
Limitedx1
| Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 08:31 am: |
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gravity for a long time, then a regular good bleed. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 09:23 am: |
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I usually go through the mechanical bleed process (valve open, pump the lever, etc) until I'm pretty sure I have it. Then I'll fill the master cylinder and put the lid on...but NOT bolt it down. Just put it in place so dust stays out. Pull the lever to the grip and use a zip tie or rag or whatever to hold it there. Let the bubbles (the couple that may be left) rise to the top overnight. Torque the lid into place, release the lever, go ride. |
Loose_nut_dan
| Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 03:52 pm: |
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I haven't done the front one yet, but on the rear, I use a big syringe from the feed store. Put a hose on the end where the needle goes, and attach that to the bleeder valve. Then Force feed the fluid backwards into the reservoir. |
Lake_bueller
| Posted on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 03:59 pm: |
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Like limitedx1 said....gravity. I usullay open the nipple and give the brake lever a few squeezes to get it flowing. Don't forget to top of the fluid when done. |
Wildbuellrider
| Posted on Sunday, August 16, 2009 - 05:21 pm: |
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I've always struggled with this on a bike--hard to convince the air to flow down to the bleeder when they want to rise. But I had good success recently when I had to replace the brake line on my X1. I used a piece of hose on the nipple, and immersed it in a small clean container. I opened the valve, filled the reservior, and repeatedly squeezed the brake lever without closing the bleeder valve. Soon, the system was primed well enough to move a good amount of fluid through the system (and carry the bubbles with it). With the hose immersed, air doesn't go back in at the bleeder. Just make sure to keep the reservior filled. Squeeze it rapidly, just put the reservior cover in place so it doesn't splash out. Once the bubbles stopped, I bleed them in the traditional manner: squeeze and hold the brake lever, close the bleeder, and pump the brakes up again. Repeat a few times. Worked for me! |
Is11b1p
| Posted on Sunday, August 16, 2009 - 09:28 pm: |
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Found out that front brake caliber needs to be rebuilt. I thought it was air in the lines. Only four of the six pistons were working properly. The pistons had flat spots on them. I tried cleaning and lubing them but it did not work. I just ordered a rebuild kit. Should be here in three days. Thanks for all the info though. I appreciate it. Dan |
Preybird1
| Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 07:13 pm: |
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Today i installed a new steel braided brake line kit and had the joy of getting this caliper to bleed....It took 25 minutes of fiddling. I got a re-build kit but. I need a new rotor also. So i am going to wait 2 weeks and do them both at the same time as the front pads. |
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