| Author | Message | ||
     Judotrip |
Went for a ride Sunday on my 01 M2L and she was running like a top. I stopped at a store and then she will not start. The starter just clicks but will not turn over. I then proceed to pop it, but then it is running really crappy. The headlight\break light worked and it would keep running if I eased it off the line and gave lots of gas. The turn signals would not work, but the instrument panel would show it as on but very dim( it wasn't flashing) also my speedo and odometer would not work. I checked all the electrical connections and they seem fine, but now the starter does nothing and i hear some clicking in the relays. Also the instruments are very dim and then go off like there is no battery. All the fuses look good, and I haven't really looked at the battery. This ever happen to anyone? | ||
| Brinnutz |
Check your voltage regulator. | ||
| Buellistic |
The CLICKING unless you have other "MYSTERY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS" means you battery lacks what is called CRANKING VOLTS(some will use the term cranking "AMPS") ... As a rule a battery will last 2 years and if you keep it on a TRICKLE CHARGE(ie: using a BATTERY TENDER Plus when not riding) you get 4 years out of it ... There are those that say they do nothing and get more battery years than that, my answer to that is all battery's are not created equal and just plain dumb luck ... IF YOUR BATTERY IS OVER OR JUST UNDER 2 YEARS OLD, PUT A NEW BATTERY IN ... Now if you take the battery to the Dealer they will put it on a charger and then do a load test on it which will KILL THE BATTERY by doing a quick drain on the battery then sell you a new battery ... Every time you do a load test on a battery it shortens the life of said battery ... THE ONLY LOAD TEST THAT SHOULD EVER BE DONE ON YOUR BATTERY IS YOU STARTING YOUR MOTORCYCLE !!! REMEMBER THIS: every time you discharge your battery it loose's 20% of it cranking ability to the point that it will not start your motorcycle(same applies to car batteries), then you get a new battery ... If you want your new battery to last what ever it's max. life will be, put it on a charger for 24 hours ... "YES", there are those that say that is not so, well it's my money "i" spend so "i" will do the charge thing for max. battery cranking life !!! | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
LaFayette, Would a Battery Tender be adequate for the initial 24 hour charge? Or do I need a more powerful charger? | ||
| Buellistic |
Dave_02_1200: "i" do not use the BATTERY TENDER Plus to charge a new battery(motorcycle or car) when "i" get a new one ... "i" have a old Sears Battery Charger which goes from 0 to 4.5 AMPS which is around 35 years old now which is plenty enough charge for any battery New or Old for 24 hours ... You never want to do a QUICK CHARGE on a battery because you run the risk of warping the plates ... | ||
| Judotrip |
I put a battery in last year. Never had issues with it? I did hear that you could shake a blade loose in the battery. That would take some crank power out of it. Right now when I go to start it I hear buzzing in the relays but nothing from the starter. I installed the updated relays with built in diode, it didn't help. | ||
| Buell_bert |
Did you try to use another battery or jump it with a good one to see if it would turn over. (12v car battery). Batteries usually fail slowly but they can fail instantly also. The same as any part on any machine. Also did you check the battery terminals ON BOTH ENDS. Clean and tighten. Good luck. | ||
| Judotrip |
I checked the battery and it is good. I will try the starter draw test tonight. That seems to be the symptoms, all is good until I hit the start switch, then everything dims and the relays start clicking. nothing from the starter though... Thanks for the info... | ||
| Buellistic |
Judotrip: Before you start any testing you should start with a fully charged battery ... As a rule a fully charged battery will read 12.8 to 13.0 volts, "BUT" that does not mean it will start you bike !!! Measured across the battery terminals ... "WHY YOU ASK" !!! Cranking VOLTS(some talk "AMP") which is what the battery must have the capacity to maintain in order to start your bike ... If your cranking volts(when you push the starter button) drops below 9 VOLTS the battery will not start your bike ... Measured across the battery terminals when you push the starter button ... This means if you push start your bike it will run you lights and engine ... With your engine running at 2000 RPM you should read 13.0 to 15.0(average is 14.2 V) volts across the battery terminals ... The only LOAD TEST you should ever do is trying to start your bike, "AS" LOAD TEST EQUIPMENT helps "KILL" your battery ... All batteries are not created equal, "BUT" are made the same way which means a battery may last one day in service or 6 years as you never know ... If your battery is WARRANTY of one year, "THAT" is as long as it will probably last !!! Now they can be made to last longer, "MAYBE" by keeping it on a BATTERY PLUS trickle charger when not riding your bike ... | ||
| Cyclonemick |
I must have some real dumb luck because in the nine years I have had my cyclone I have only replaced battery once! I never have used a trickle charger but I do tend to ride alot! Good Ole HD batteries from the Stealership! | ||
| Buellistic |
Cyclonemick: Just think how much longer your batteries may have lasted, IT MIGHT HAVE WENT TO 12 YEARS ??? The thing you want to remember is to get a new battery before the last electron removal takes the your electrical system with it ... Electronics modules, stators, voltage regulators, and ALL THE MYSTERY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS ... IMHO, it is cheaper to by a new battery ... | ||
| Cyclonemick |
My stock battery was replaced at the six year mark and am currently on the first replacment now although if this battery lasts the rest of the season (Nov) I will probably just replace it to be on the safe side! | ||
| Judotrip |
Thanks for the advice Buellistic. I was just going through the manual troubleshooting process and the starter draw test was the step following the testing the battery and the relays..... The battery reads 12.58 volts My charger says it is charged. I will take it back and rep[lace it since it has been about a year, and go from there.... | ||
| Buellistic |
Judstrip: The beauty of a BATTERY TENDER Plus is it has a "FLOAT LED" ... You can use this to trouble shoot a battery... If a battery will not "FLOAT" and light the float led, it means one of two things ... The battery is getting old and needs to be replaced or it needs to be put on a higher charge rate battery charger to bring it back up ... If the higher charge rate charger will not bring it up to where it will FLOAT the battery should be replaced ... The real proof of the pudding is if it will or will not start your bike !!! | ||
| Koz5150 |
I had the same problem for almost 2 years. I tracked mine down to the small washer between the ground cable and the frame. Over time it will rust and cuase a bad connection. I removed the bolt and washer and replaced with stainless parts from the hardware store. I also removed a small amount of powdercoating from the frame to make a better connection. Remember this is the only spot on the entire bike where the engine connects to the frame metal to metal so it must be clean. | ||
| Buellistic |
Koz5150: Another "MYSTERY PROBLEM" !!! | ||
| Mr_wizard |
I can't believe you guys haven't went to a fiberglass battery. It is a dry cell battery and they rock. I will never go back to an acid battery again. My battery on my raodking cracked and leaked acid all over the battery box and wrecked it and that was all it took for me to switch | ||
| Kalali |
What brand of battery are you talking about? I mean the fiberglass one. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Judotrip, there is a small gauge wire coming off the starter were the positive cable bolts to the stud. Check that wire carefully or use a jumper wire to bypass it to the pos. batt. terminal. That wire corroded and my bike left me stranded with the same problems. | ||
| Judotrip |
Well think I found the issue, but created more for myself...The negative battery connection to the frame was real rusty. I cleaned it off, but in the process of screwing in the bolt it broke off...Little tight in there for getting a wrench on it, so I am drilling it out tonight. just the excuse I needed to buy more air tools  | ||
| Buell_bert |
First thing to check on starter issues is the clean and tight connections of BOTH ends of the positive and negative battery wires. | ||
| Judotrip |
OK... We are on the Road Again...It was the battery not holding the charge..Forgot how much I missed riding the M2... Thanks for the advice |
