| Author | Message | ||
     Carbonlightning |
Ok wondering if anyone on here knows how easy it is to change the drive belt? Also if anyone has the large torque socket needed to remove the bolt into the swingarm and isolater anywhere near Louisville, KY or one someone might be able to lend out to a fellow biker? Promise ill send it back. Or atleast know the size of the socket where to get it and how much one would cost? Help is much appreaciated brothers. | ||
| 5liter |
If it's a Torx head it will take a #60 Torx bit. 1/2" Allen bit if it's an allen bolt. It should be fairly easy on your X1 with the removable plate on that side. The hardest part I found is taking all the stuff off to get the isolator out. You might want to check your chassis ground while your in there. Mine had a piece of frame paint get under the washer. When I put it back together I had a bad ground and that caused some starter issues. (Message edited by 5liter on August 05, 2009) | ||
| Skntpig |
It's easy, cheesy on your X1. on an S1, not so fun. get a FSM and a friend or check the KV on here...and have a beer | ||
| 5liter |
Easy, cheesy, lemon peezy......... At least a 6 pack to sort things out.  | ||
| Jramsey |
X1 belt change doesn't require Iso removal. | ||
| Kalali |
"X1 belt change doesn't require Iso removal" Correct. I did mine with help from a friend and it was easier than what the FSM suggested but still follow the steps and use your judgement as you move along. Oldog posted the procedure some time ago. Do a search. | ||
| Hootowl |
You do have to take out one of the isos, but it falls out when you take the frame section out. It isn't like it is on the S1, M2, S3. Never understood that. | ||
| Jramsey |
1. Remove 2 rt. side hugger bolts. 2. Loosen and back off both axle adj. bolts. 3. Loosen axle nut and shove wheel forward. 4. Remove 1/4 socket head front belt guard bolt and the 3 chin faring/swingarm brace bolts and remove guard. 5. Remove 3 side plate bolts plus the top passenger peg bracket mounting bolt, and move side plate/brake pedal/master cylinder out of they way as an assembly. 6. Fit belt over sprockets and realign side plate with Iso locating pin and install side plate bolts. 7. Install front belt guard/swingarm brace and chin faring bolts. 8. Install hugger bolts. 9. Adjust belt. 10. Tighten axle to 70 ft. lbs. Hoot,why remove the Iso if not required? (Message edited by jramsey on August 05, 2009) (Message edited by jramsey on August 05, 2009) | ||
| 5liter |
Wish it was that easy on an S3T.... | ||
| Sportyeric |
On the S2, I can use a ready-rod coupler, for, I think, 3/8" ready rod. Then a socket of the appropriate size on that. But that's because I can remove the aluminum plate that sandwiches the isolator. Maybe you wouldn't be able to get a socket on the coupler? Oops. I thought the project was the isolator, not the belt. Nevermind. (Message edited by Sportyeric on August 06, 2009) | ||
| Oldog |
JR I had to remove the Isolator, on that side (too close installed) one more bolt some may pass Mine does not its bloody close though #12 drink Beer! | ||
| Carbonlightning |
Thanks alot for the help guys, picking th belt up tommarrow. Gonna try it with out removing isolater first. But if not following the manuel. Big thanks to buellistic always a big help and going out of his way to help other buellers... Also big thanks to everyone who posted. ANy more advice or hints let me know will check back later. | ||
| 5liter |
Make sure you don't squeeze the belt into a smaller diameter than the drive sprocket. It'll shorten the life of the belt severely. There should be a note in the box the belt comes about this. | ||
| Hootowl |
"Hoot,why remove the Iso if not required? " Because I'm a moron and wasn't thinking when I posted that. I was thinking of when I changed my isolators, which was the last time I took out the frame section. Sorry all. | ||
| Kalali |
Most importantly, ask for the newer XB belt not the old "Sportster" that came on the bike. Should last the life of the bike. Remains to be seen. |
