| Author | Message | ||
     Psycrow |
Well made it home safe on the blown front DS isolator. I think my hands are still vibrating...lol. However I have a new problem. late in day 3 of my 4 day trip I began having transmission trouble. True Neutral is gone and in its place are several "false" neutrals through out the gear range and its miss shifting all over the place. I hear the shift clunk and it "feels" like it went into gear but doesn't its in a false neutral. As long as I pull the clutch back in and nail the shifter a couple of times it will find a gear without grinding. Being deliberate with all the shifting steps and using firm(not stamping) on the shift lever kept the problems to a minimum while getting home. It helped that day 4 was 80% highway and I left the bike in top gear most of the way home. I guess I'm going to grab the manual and dig into the primary sometime this week anything in there I should be looking for, anything else in there I should look at just because I have the primary cover off? I'm going to spend some time this afternoon searching the KV on related topics but any input here is appreciated. Guys Im know this wont make me popular here but This trip really discouraged me. This is my third summer trip and each year Ive had to limp home or spend a day at the Harley/Buell shop. The bike is 7 years old but only has 3200kms (just over 19000 miles) Compared to the Squids I see flogging their Jap rockets I baby my bike.... Psy | ||
| Oldog |
Psy the common item for this is the circlip on the shift drum. Your complaints are understandable... | ||
| Firemanjim |
Or the pins have started to walk out of drum. | ||
| Kalali |
My X1 stranded me once and I was sort of lucky because weather was nice, I had road-side assistance and the tow truck showed up in less than 30 minutes. It turned out to be a bad clutch safety switch which I could have "grounded" if I knew any better. While I really like the bike, if my bike does to me what your bike has been doing to you, it would be gone. Sorry. | ||
| Psycrow |
Dug into the primary last night and sure enough I found a broken Detent Plate retaining clip. What a flimsy piece of crap. Should there be any side to side movement in the splined shift shaft? Is there a better retaining clip? Anyone know the Part # of the factory clip? The Drum pins appear to be fully seated. Any thing else I should check while I'm in here?     | ||
| Mdoughten |
This is the second post i've seen recently with pics of a primary cover off. Mine is currently off. I have never looked inside in the three years i've owned it. I parked the bike to address a leaking clutch cable. With the clutch cover off, i'm looking around inside with a flashlight. Since I have never layed eyes on the chain adjuster shoe I decided to pull the primary and have a look around. Sure enough, it was the old style shoe, and, although it was still together, it was broke. That alone made it worth wile to remove the primary cover. Talking with a tech at my local HD/Buell dealership, I tell him what I have going on. In our conversation I mention finding a false neutral between gears. He told me of an adjustment that can be made to maybe help. (page 6-34 in 1999 X1 service manual) I didn't really want to break the chain and pull the clutch pac to make this adjustment, but it looks like it may be worth my time just to have a look see. I may have these same worn parts. My shift shaft seems to have alot of freeplay too, I have the same wear marks as you do in the top picture. Were did you find the broken retainer clip? Psy, thank you for sharing the photos. I have more wrenching to do. (I thought I was bout done) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Matt, If you have the service manual, you didn't read it close enough. You do NOT have to break the primary chain to remove the clutch! In fact you can't break it, you would ruin it.. You remove the clutch hub nut and the stator nut and remove all three at the same time. | ||
| Mdoughten |
I have more reading to do also. Thank you | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I suggest a Baker smooth shift kit. Comes with shift drum and detent plate - both of which have slightly different shapes than the stock parts and make for smoother shifts. The Baker kit also eliminates the weak circlip design that just failed you. The shift drum has a threaded hole and is attached to the detent plate with a button head allen screw. A couple years ago a metal chunk from a lobe on my detent plate broke off and chewed up my stator. I got the shift kit from American Sport Bike and have had no regrets. | ||
| Skntpig |
PK, Did you notice that it did shift smoother? So it's just a better design and no negatives associated with these? With some parts there is a give and a take associated like the ez-clutch pullers. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Honestly I wouldn't suggest spending the money unless either the detent plate or shift drum requires replacement anyway - it is smoother but I didn't mind the way the stock parts felt. It is a bit smoother though and imo worth the money because it eliminates a weak link in the tranny. The lobes on the detent plate are smoother (no "corners" as can be seen on the stock part above) and the shift drum has slightly different "trenches" (dunno what they're called) I almost think it gave the tranny a bit more of a clunky feeling, but in a good way. It feels a lot more confident going into every gear which I never got from the stock parts. It makes finding neutral from 2nd gear nearly impossible, but from 1st its a breeze. Btw when fastened with the button head allen, the detent plate has none of the slack that the stock part has with it's circlip design. Well there's my $0.02 .. Both the good and bad. | ||
| Psycrow |
Well I got it all buttoned back up and cranked it over. Shifts through the gears nicely but the clutch seems to be dragging. Is a little drag (wheel turning while on the stand) normal. The lever pull seems a lot harder than before. Im sure it has to do with the adjustment but I followed the manual's procedure twice. Any tips? That clip is a piss poor design and I would like to do the baker shift kit...and the XB rockers.....and PM wheels....and .... List goes on but $$ is tight. I still have to find an ISO that lasts more than 500 miles  psy | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I've got pm wheels that I'd trade for cast as long as the other party pays shipping both ways. They've got nearly new metzler m3's on them and I'd like to have a similar set of tires on the cast wheels in the trade. I just don't have the tools to remove or install tires. Its a long shot, but if you're interested shoot me a message. | ||
| Sloppy |
Tranny's are a weak point in the Buell, but there is a solution. A Baker 5 speed transmission. It is by FAR the BEST upgrade. It has literally changed the transmission from a mediocre, BMW / Guzzi style tranny into a full, quick shift, WOT tranny. I swear, my Buell now shifts BETTER than my motocross bikes. Can't say enough - I wish the factory had partnered with Baker to put these tranny's as an OEM upgrade. Well worth it! Psy: Yes, the wheel does turn while in neutral. Hard clutch pull may indicate that the cable needs to be lubed. Whenever you're in the tranny make sure you check on the primary shoe - especially if you don't have the upgraded version! | ||
| Psycrow |
Cool, I don't have one of those power cable lubricators is there another way of lubing it? Well now all I need is for the Shock to start leaking and Ive had it all..... Sloppy Id love to install the Baker but I really didn't mind the feel of the OEM Tranny. I'm not one of these performance riders who needs slipper clutches and such I just hate when things brake when I feel they shouldn't. I mean seriously how hard or extra cost would it have been for HD to secure the Detent plate with a frigging bolt?? PK I have some nearly new Batlax BT014's on Silver cast rims. I'll think about it. To be honest a Harley/Buell shop made me a trade in offer for the M2 for an Suzuki SV1000s. VTwin, liquid cooling, fuel injection and just over 11,000miles....Im actually considering it. Psy | ||
| Oldog |
Psy, to lube cable, remove it hang it, place a baggie, with the corner clipped off on the cable with a rubber band, put some oil in it and let it set over night. | ||
| Spiderman |
Cool, I don't have one of those power cable lubricators is there another way of lubing it? I have never cable lubed my clutch cable. What I will do when I change the oils I pull the cable off the perch and hold the cable to the ground till the cable weeps tranny fluid than re install back on the perch... | ||
| Essmjay |
The splined shift shaft will slop around with the primary cover off, because the bushing in the cover provides the support for the other end. | ||
| Kalali |
Sorry but I have two newbie questions... In the pictures, which component is this infamous detent plate? And how come I don't see the tensioner "shoe" inside the bottom of the primary? P.S. I am at work with no access to FSM, thus the questions. Thanks. | ||
| Psycrow |
Shoe is on the Primary "Cover" and the Detent plate is that scratched up star piece pictured above and the •••••• c clip is that broken piece to its right. Psy | ||
| Cobraman |
The detent plate is the item to the left in picture number three (counting from the top down). The faulty clip is to the right in picture number three. You don't see the shoe because it is actually mounted onto the primary cover. | ||
| Kalali |
Got it. Thanks. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
3000 words:    The "Newer Plate" shown on top on the right side is the one in your stock tranny. | ||
| Cobraman |
So is this the correct labeling of the positions on the detent plate?  | ||
| Jos51700 |
I'm betting that the pins in the drum backed out, and that's causing the clip breakage. I've seen several that continued to break clips, until the drum (And it's loose pins) was replaced. In fact, I've yet to see a broken clip that didn't have backed-out pins. If you look at it, there's really no reason for the clip to break, otherwise. It should have a curve to it, to give it the "spring" action that is what retains the clip and locates the shiftstar. When the pins back out, the shift star moves outward, flattening the clip, and over stressing it. It eventually splits. | ||
| Psycrow |
You can blame it on the clip or pins. The end result is the same. Its a piss poor design. If I can purchase a drum kit from Baker to fix the issue for $225 it can't be any great expense to incorporate a similar OEM design. So what if they added $100 to the purchase price the the Bike to compensate. I just don't get it. Making things "Just good enough" is how a company gets a bad rep. Psy |
