Author |
Message |
Truth
| Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 10:40 am: |
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Hey all, (99 M2) I installed the Buell Race exhaust and ignition module (stock intake). Installed a 45 slow jet, 2.5 turns on the fuel screw, left the needle stock and stock 200 main jet. The bike starts up, runs well, but does not idle, even with the remote idle adjuster all the way out. I can get the bike to idle well by increasing the throttle cable tension, is that an acceptable way to get this bike to idle, or is the just a band aid? Thanks for the help! Frank. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 01:48 pm: |
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That's a puzzler, I hate it when I change 3 things at once an then it doesn't work. Some folks recommend one thing at a time for that reason. Oh well. I would least suspect the Race Ignition module, but since that's the easiest thing to change, maybe start by putting back the stock one? From what you describe, I would guess an air leak somewhere. This is where I would just take it all back apart, and put it together again, starting with the carb. Don't forget, you could have just hit the wall on your carb intake seals. Have they ever been changed? If not, might as well get a trio of those too. If you took the carb completely off to change the low jet, could have messed up the intake seal that might have been on it's last leg anyway. When you say 'Idle well', what rpm are you working on? I set the Idle Air Adjusting screw at about 1200 rpm or so, but I generally let it idle on the street about 900 rpm. I'm just down the way from you, south of Vallejo, in Hercules, by the way. |
Truth
| Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 04:09 pm: |
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Hey Jayvee, I just purchased the bike recently, so I don't know if the intake seals have ever been replaced. Are you referring to the gaskets between the carb bell and the snorkel/spacers? I did remove the carb completely to service and clean it. "idle well" I mean not real high and not so low it dies. I do not have a tach, so I don't know the specific RPMs. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
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Idle adjuster goes IN to increase idle speed. Think "volume knob"; turn "up", RPM increases. +1 on a pinched carb-to-intake seal. Start it up and spray some carb cleaner at the backside of the carb (from the left of the bike, by the choke knob). If it zips up, you gotta leak. |
Truth
| Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:39 pm: |
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Guys, I was turning the idle adjuster the correct way, as indicated by the repair manual (clockwise). I have been thinking, it can't be a leak between the carb and cylinder. If I am not mistaken, that would create a lean condition. I test rode the bike this way and it ran great, no popping on decel. Frank. (Message edited by truth on July 08, 2009) |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 07:55 pm: |
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If its a small leak, and you have high vacuum (carb throttle plate closed), the engine takes air through the easiest opening. Carb/throttle open, easy route is through the carb. Check it anyway. It's free. |
Truth
| Posted on Saturday, July 11, 2009 - 04:20 pm: |
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Guys, I figured it out. I removed the carb and found the throttle cable bracket loose and misaligned. When I adjusted the idle screw, it was not contacting the throttle cam, so the butterfly was closed at idle. Got it all adjusted and it is idling great. I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet, but it sounds awesome!!! Frank. |
Jayvee
| Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 01:58 am: |
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"loose and misaligned"...story of my life |
Truth
| Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 04:14 pm: |
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Jayvee, tighten up and fly straight!
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