| Author | Message | ||
     Mudshuvel319 |
Pretty simple question: How difficult are the front and rear brake lever switches (as is, what triggers the brake light when applied) to install? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Front isn't that hard, but you have to be careful - it mounts to the lever perch on the handlebar. Rear, depending on model, could require bleeding the rear brake line as it is a line-pressure-switch, not a lever-switch. | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
The rear uses fluid pressure? Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks for the info. | ||
| Skntpig |
Are both of yours bad? | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
They may both be bad. As a little bit of back story, I live in an apartment without any motorcycle storage so I have it sitting locked up in the back of the parking lot with a cover on it. It's been really rainy here the last couple months so apparently the ants in the area were driven from the ground and found residence on my bike. Lucky me. So to make a long story short, there were hundreds of ants that were swarming all over the bike and they got into everything, including the electrical system. The turn signals and both brake lights stopped working (although the headlight and taillight remained fine). I replaced the blinker unit and that fixed the turn signal problem. When I cracked open the old unit, something had shorted it, as there was a small burned area on the board across one of the wires. Presumable an ant made it's way into the box and shorted the wire. So as it stands today, the signals work but neither brakes are illuminating the brake light. I have power going across the wire so I'm hoping it was another ant-related switch short. I was going to call the local HD (non-Buell) dealer and see if the Harleys use the same front brake switch and hope they have one in stock. | ||
| Spiderman |
Hate to ask, have you checked the fuse(s)the bulb? | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
Yeah, they were the first thing I checked. I was hoping that would be the problem but, sadly, it wasn't. | ||
| Spiderman |
You tested them other than physically looking at them correct? | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
Yeah, I checked them with a continuity tester | ||
| Skntpig |
Does the tail running light work when you turn on the ignition to run? | ||
| Skntpig |
Electrical contact cleaner might work on the switch. I don't see how they could effect the rear based on how it works via fluid pressure. I would bet more on the connection at the bulb or the bulb itself if the fuse works. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
It is easy to check for power on the(+) side of the rear switch as it is hot anytime the key is on. If there is no power there you need to backtrack until you find the ant damage. I suspect it is on the (+) side since neither end works, but I have had both of my switches go within a short period of time myself! Now that I think about it, I have also had both brake light elements in the bulbs go while the tail light elements were fine - so check the bulbs! If power is there check the (-) side while depressing the brake. Obviously if no power comes out then it is the switch. Repeat on the front switch if need be. A related question for somebody/anybody; My factory rear brake light switch lasted 8 years or so which I consider normal. The switch itself is nothing special and looks identical to the pressure switches seen on many vehicles. The original PN has been replaced and I cannot get a new switch to last more than a year - I have had 2 new PN's fail. My Buell is a '99 that uses DOT 5 - is it possible that this new switch is not compatible with DOT 5? Also, as a FYI, the new switch fits like doo-doo - it is very hard to get the factory connectors on it and the new connectors supplied are straight instead of 90 degrees like the factory ones. I am not inclined to cut off the factory connectors and the new ones supplied with the switch (I believe) would make the wires to short anyway or put a lot of stress on the wire. It appears to me that the new number is really a Sportster replacement and us Buell guys have to make do...... Accel makes a switch for Sportsters and I see them on e-bay. I don't really feel like waiting for it to ship and my inspection sticker expires today, but unless someone has a generic replacement PN that can be had anywhere (I am sure every auto parts store in town has what I need, but their computerized system only allows them to look up by vehicle) I am going to order one. | ||
| Skntpig |
DOT 5 is silicone based so I doubt that is hurting the switch. I would think any switch that threaded in would work. Go to a smaller mom and pops place and have them find the switch for you. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I might have one "old school" shop with look up books and everything that I can try - otherwise they are all a bunch of keypad typers. I deal with a lot of chemical compatibility issues at work and silicones are generally not compatible with organic polymers.... The switch has to be sealed with something - probably a polymer! It would explain why I cannot keep a switch working! P.S. I was hoping someone else had the same experience and could say something like "a switch fom a 86 Ford Excort is the same as the old switch". That way I could get it from someplace convenient and fast vs. chasing around.... (Message edited by scott_in_nh on June 30, 2009) | ||
| T9r |
Just to close this question out for 'Scott in nh'. The Autozone Duralast part number RB401, brake light switch ($13.49, 9/2022) works perfectly. |
